Burro Cabinet Inserts - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #1
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Name: Timothy
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Burro Cabinet Inserts

Hello,

I have a great looking Burro I am fixing up. The previous owner replaced the inside fiberglass but didn't get to the cabinets, so there's just holes right now. Could anyone give me suggestions as to what to insert into the holes to make them functional cabinets? I heard there was a company that makes custom cabinet inserts, however I'm guessing that's expensive. Thanks.

Tim
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:03 PM   #2
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Is the "inside" fiberglass you refer to glass batt insulation? If so, I'd like to see how the PO approached that task! I have never heard of anyone "replacing" the inner liner or hull. I am also not certain what is meant by inserts but I'll guess it's the pasteboard liner? I'm no help. Maybe pictures would help.

jack
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:41 AM   #3
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Hi Timothy

I too am having a hard time wrapping my head around your description. Pictures would really help
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:18 PM   #4
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:21 PM   #5
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:23 PM   #6
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:23 PM   #7
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:24 PM   #8
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:37 PM   #9
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You might think about using Reflectix instead of glass batt and perhap also in lieu of the cardboard liner that would show in SOME cabinets. For instance, in ours, there's glass batt on the wheel well under the sink and on the outside wall. The upper cabs all over the trailer have faux wood-grain cardboard liner. There's also glass batt in the cavity between the inner and outer skin which might be apparent to you if you pull the AC or a roof vent or fan. It's squeezed flat, has no real insulation value, and you won't be replacing that no way. Reflectix could be cut to fit and adhered pretty easy with a spray contact cement. If there were "inserts" except for the pieced together cardboard in the upper cabs or lockers, I know nothing about them but perhaps a Sac City owner will know more than I.

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Old 11-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
You might think about using Reflectix instead of glass batt and perhap also in lieu of the cardboard liner that would show in SOME cabinets. For instance, in ours, there's glass batt on the wheel well under the sink and on the outside wall. The upper cabs all over the trailer have faux wood-grain cardboard liner. There's also glass batt in the cavity between the inner and outer skin which might be apparent to you if you pull the AC or a roof vent or fan. It's squeezed flat, has no real insulation value, and you won't be replacing that no way. Reflectix could be cut to fit and adhered pretty easy with a spray contact cement. If there were "inserts" except for the pieced together cardboard in the upper cabs or lockers, I know nothing about them but perhaps a Sac City owner will know more than I.

jack
I don't think that the OP is talking about insulation. I think the question is how to turn fiberglass shells into useful cabinets. I'd be inclined to build something out of thin plywood and 1x2s.

In my similar UHaul there is an icebox or refrigerator on the front right. On the right of the sink, a cook top is inset. On the front left, I did this. For the coat closet, I did this.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:12 PM   #11
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I like Tom's "insert" in the wheelwell area. I'd say do that. While it's true that softwood or hardwood cleats and nailers can be attached to the glass with nothing more than a slather of Bondo and backs, sides and shelves added from 1/4 or 3/8" plywd, it all adds wgt. and creates more cavities and dead spaces which I don't care for. I did the cleat and shelf treatment in the upper hanging locker but for the "holes" down of the floor, I like a bit more open plan as water will eventually get in if only from rinse water on a fridge vent or louvre. I like it to evaporate rather than migrating into a lot of ply or cardboard partitions. As Tom says the "inserts" that go in the right hand holes in the galley cabinet are pretty obvious and by the time you're plumbed for propane for the range top and fridge and put them in, not to mention a water pump and tank should you choose to stuff those next the wheel well, you won't have room for more than a bottle of Windex and a roll of paper towels.

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Old 11-19-2012, 10:22 AM   #12
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I am assuming that the burro came as single wall - open to the outside wall - for wire access in those cupboards. Mine is an '82 and it has the same problem. I'm reluctant to stuff things on top of the wires, but also hesitant to cut off access.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:39 PM   #13
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Isn't the Burro the cousin to the Uhauls, Looks like the same cabinet for the stove/ sink/ ice box and the same overhead cabinet except the doors swing sideways instead of up. Also looks like it has an inner shell. Early Uhauls, as I understand it, did not have liners in the cabinets, they were added later for ease of cleaning after rental. I have the overhead liners that appear to have been added later. I removed the one under the sink and gained a lot more storage area. Same under the seating/ bed areas. I am using pieces of carpet pad to prevent damage to the shell from items bouncing around in those storage areas. Tom did a nice storage unit under his sink, I'm more of the "pile it in" type of person. Sometimes trying to be too neat can take up more room. Under the left rear seating I managed to get a Rubbermaid Action Packer in there because I removed the water tank, load it up and bungeed it down.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:54 PM   #14
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Inner hull of a Burro or U-Haul departs from the outer hall in the area of the lockers, cabs. bunk risers. They are all double-hull no matter the separation between inner and outer. If you had no door, fridge, stove cutouts, you would have two continuous hulls no matter the varying distance between them.

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