Burro Door Problem - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2012, 09:40 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jane D.

Sue,
I know you want to use the little thing but I wouldn't bet that the duct tape will keep it from more damage. It can't give enough support to overcome all the flexing from moving down the road. I used some tape on mine to hold it up so I could take the hinges off and it didn't stay on long at all. Just didn't stick well. Not cheap tape either, the good stuff. May be wise to at least do some type of temporary repair at the split before you tow it much more.

Please be careful you don't want to loose that door !!

JD
I can't think of what to use to make it last the summer. A hasp has so much potential of damaging the skin if the framework if flexing and causing the problem. Any idea on how to test the thing?
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:08 PM   #44
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I don't if it will work for you but my door wouldn't stay latched when traveling. I used a bungee cord hooked on inside to door handle with enough tension to keep it latched but still able to open.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:06 PM   #45
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That burro door! I'm at my bothers place. He works at mt st helens keeping all their stuff working. Best place to be with this door!


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The door is off and the curve is pretty close - certainly close enough for me. So we (read my brother roger when I say we) checked the body.


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After removing the floor base metal that tucks around floor edge we found fiberglassed base on the bottom, then 1/2 inch wood leveling, then on top of that 3/4 inch wood on top of that and then a floating floor at the top to walk on.

That was okay, but they left the stuff on top of the fiberglassed piece an inch too wide at the door. That was the problem. When we got all of that out of the way the door fit pretty good.


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I guess the person installing that door couldn't figure out what had gone wrong because new holes were drilled to hang the door - so close to the old holes they slipped. Roger's fix was the tube epoxy that mixes in the application tube. Rog shot that into the holes to solidify the space between the inside and outside fiberglass sheets and to give us something to screw into.

Now we have removed the lock and are fiberglassing the breaks at the door jam that broke with the misalignment. Back to work now that the first layer of fiberglass is dry.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:33 AM   #46
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That's the ticket !!!

Sue,

Glad that you decided to take the door off and address the problem. Looks like your brother has it under control. That epoxy should help out a whole lot with the multiple holes.

Good luck and happy travels. jd
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:34 AM   #47
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Could you post the name of the epoxy that was used on door repair. Im looking at doing the same thing
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:13 AM   #48
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It was a 5 minute epoxy that came as a unit. I don't remember the brand, but the two tubes were connected by a single spout with a spiral inch long tip that mixed the resin and hardener as it was applied. It was especially good for our application because we could direct it into the screw holes with the mixing spout. Hope it works for you too!
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:15 PM   #49
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Starting fiberglass class

I am back from a wonderful summer - with the little burro held together with duct tape. Time to start working on the little guy! I start a fiberglass class tonight and have enlisted my wonderful fiberglass guru neighbor as my personal burro coach. Cross fingers for me!
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