Burro Floor Rot - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-13-2005, 09:56 AM   #15
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Laura,
Congratulations on your trailer! My Burro lives pretty close by in Canyon Country. Welcome to FGRV and the Burro family!
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:57 PM   #16
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Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
Iowa
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Yes, the water flowed to the back of the "shower room" and it is not sealed there.. the caulking is gone and moldy in the corner.. and then the water flowed down and out the bottom of the trailer under the bathroom.
Hi Lauradawn! Welcome to FGRV! Your Burro's floor may or may not be rotted under the shower. As it's a '98, the condition of the wood in the floor may not be as bad as you may suspect. The Burro floor is plywood encased in fiberglass top and bottom. The models with the shower have the shower pan laid on top of the floor, and the drain line run through the floor. The toilet drain also runs through the shower pan and floor. The walls are installed after the shower pan is laid down, and then the whole thing is caulked where needed. There are basically only three places then, that can leak: the through-hole for the shower pan drain, the through-hole for the toilet, and the cracks that should be caulked and that may now leak.

Any or all of them may be leaking and contribute to your problem. None of them may have been serious enough or run water long enough to actually have allowed dry rot to occur. Then again, you just don't know. Mold and mildew isn't necessarily indicative of dry rot either.

My first course of action would be to take out all of the existing caulking in the shower and allow the entire shower enclosure to dry out through the cracks for a few days. Then re-caulk them, let the caulk set up, and test the shower. If that's all it was (and that's probable) then you've fixed your problem. If it wasn't, then the next most likely is that something is leaking around the pan drain. Last is probably the toilet drain. While it's possible to tear the entire shower out, and is really not even all that difficult, it may just not be necessary yet.

Good luck!

Roger
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Old 12-17-2005, 04:15 AM   #17
laura dawn
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If you do take out the shower floor pan for inspection.....

Thank you again all.. There is an odor I think may be mold, so I have started unscrewing ect to get the shower pan out.
But I have come across a few thinkgs I 'm not sure how to do.
First is getting the toilet out??
I unscrewed the bolts, and unattached the water, but the toilet does not pull up??
Any suggestions?
I thought I would get underneath and take the tank off to see if I could see anything, but when I try to turn the nuts, the bolt turns right with it.. The top of the bolt are under the shower pan, so I am stuck here...???
I am trying to take off the front panel of the shower..and will work on this more tomorrow as it is holding down the front end of the shower pan, maybe then I can see a bit more.
The screws, many of them were rusted.... I will see more tomorrow.. but any advice on getting that toilet out is greatly appreciated, as is all of your help, encouragement and welcomes.
Thank you!!!
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:04 AM   #18
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Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
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Unfortunately, I don't have my Burro to go look at as a reference any more, so I'm trying to remember how mine was assembled.

I think that removing the toilet and black water tank in one of these is a significant job as it involves removing the plumbing from the bottom of the tank. I've never removed a Sealand toilet/black water tank combo unit, so I can't help too much there. Unfortunately all my experience has been with Thetford toilets and a remote black water tank. Anyway, if the bolts are rusted, you may have to cut them off with a dremel tool if the conventional rust cutters (liquid wrench, etc.) won't work.

I would have thought that the black water tank would have been through-bolted to the floor rather than just the shower pan... but I suppose it's possible, for ease of assembly, that they assembled the tank to the pan, put the pan in place and then installed the toilet.

I think you'll need to start from under the trailer and see how the plumbing is actually attached to the black water tank, and disassemble it first. If it's glued PVC, you'll be cutting. If you're lucky, they made the plumbing/tank attachment with a black rubber grommet and hose clamps.

Take photos as you go so we can all see how it works please!

Roger
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Old 12-17-2005, 09:21 AM   #19
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Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
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Lauradawn:
I might be able to give some hints/pictures of how the toilet is mounted, since I removed and replaced ours. But first I need to know what toilet it is. Roger mentions Sealand, but mine has a Valterra "La Toilette" which mounts in what appears to be an unusual way. If you have one like mine let me know and I'll forward a couple of pictures which should clarify how it is mounted.
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Old 12-17-2005, 02:37 PM   #20
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Lauradawn:

I'm posting these pictures of the Valterra "La Toilette" which were taken after I wriggled the thing off after having to hacksaw off the bolts. I managed to cut the bolts off high enough so that new nuts could still be mounted (didn't want to lower the tank, etc.).
The moulded device that is attached to the floor makes a tight fit for the toilet, whose pipe arrangement shows in the view of the toilet upside down. I used a silicone paste for reassembly, a type that does not harden.
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Old 12-17-2005, 02:38 PM   #21
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The toilet.
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