Burro floor wet under the linoleum: is this a condensation problem? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-31-2011, 07:00 PM   #15
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I'm glad you are the handy types, Jen. It's great when an egg that needs a refurb falls into the right hands (not my hands, I'd make a mess of such a project).
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:59 PM   #16
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The TrimLok is pretty much just that--trim. When I did the dance of the Red Max Pro last June I noticed mine was loose forward of the AC on top. I used a permanently flexible gun caulk left over from sealing the floor around a new run of smoothbor to the clear water tank. I used a continuous bead in about a four foot length where the stuff was obviously loose or not a good wedge fit on the flanges. This was only an expedient to keep the stuff in place and prevent further loosening.

I have a sort of actuarial arrangement with my 13 yr. old Burro. I'm betting it still has a leak somewhere on the street side as I occasionally find some dampness under the insulation batt on the wheelwell beneath the sink (neither the supplies nor the trap are leaking). Also not migration into edge grain plywood in the wheelwells as mine are well sealed. Could be a heavy rain blowing in thru one of the many doors and ports on that side; could be that center seam overhead; could be from the roof-mounted AC. As I cored my floor with a hole saw (to get a better run to the clearwater), I know exactly how much glass on both sides of the plywood and it's pretty reassuring cf. to the horror stories about "kit-built" floors in the "Why is the Burro floor leaking?" thread. I think my floor and the lags to the frame may well outlast me so I'm not contemplating any major rebuilds.

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Old 01-01-2012, 01:29 PM   #17
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I have seen a Burro with the clam shell ridge removed and glasses over, it looked really nice. I'm sure it was a lot of work though. It was parked in a storage lot at a lake so couldn't inquire about it.
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:34 PM   #18
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Yeah, I'm trying to imagine how I'd seal it up without the Trimlok, and I think to avoid having it look like a Burro with a mohawk haircut I'd cut the flange off. I don't think it would be very hard - slice and dice and then patch and sand the small gap that results. HMMMMMM.

As long as the flange itself is not structurally important? I can also picture making the final chop and watching the two halves slowly crash to the garage floor.
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:55 PM   #19
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In the Egg Camper, the flange was where the 2 halves joined and this joint was covered with something similar to Trimlok. Without speaking to the manufacturer, I'd be hesitant to remove the Trimlok without knowing first if it was decorative or functional. I'd hate to see a cracked egg!!
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:10 PM   #20
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In the Burro we dealt with the trailer was glassed together in the inside. YMMV
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:05 AM   #21
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On the Burro it's for looks, not to hold the halves together. Don't worry, you won't split your egg.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:36 AM   #22
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Good to know, Mike. Suspected as much but better safe than clueless, flangeless, eggless and itching all over. The center seam flanges might also make a good attachment point for that flexible hose with the controllable lights inside. Strictly for those who have done all they can do with illuminated chili peppers!

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Old 01-02-2012, 12:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
On the Burro it's for looks, not to hold the halves together. Don't worry, you won't split your egg.
Another thanks for the confirmation! A Burro Over Easy would be a real bummer!
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:37 AM   #24
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Backing up for a second, how ARE the two halves held together if not at that flange? I woke up in the middle of the night trying to picture how and where they are otherwise stuck to each other.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #25
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My thoughts exactly, but I was bowing out to other opinions.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:17 AM   #26
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I've read many comments in the past about the two halves being joined with more fiberglass across the joint. Same prinicple as a seamless hull repair on a boat.

Let me ask you a question: does the flange look like it has the structural strength to actually hold the two halves together? It would have to be really thick and strong for that job.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:12 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Backing up for a second, how ARE the two halves held together if not at that flange? I woke up in the middle of the night trying to picture how and where they are otherwise stuck to each other.
See my post above. You have the thing torn apart, take a look at the seams. I'm sure you can see fiberglass at the seam at the top and bottom of the window openings. You need to check that anyway if you are suspect of leaking windows.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:33 AM   #28
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In my 2000 17ft Burro, the Trimlock is a decorative cover. The left and right halves of a Burro are fiberglassed together, with an added fiberglass strip bridging the two halves, on the inside. You can see this if you remove the interior center trim. I had a small leak along that center seam, I removed all the silicon that was previously there and put on a narrow strip of Eternabond, then put the Trimlock back on top of that. Zero leaks since that permanent fix. But if I were to ever paint the Burro in the future, I would grind away that center seam completely and glass/fill it in before hand, I like that all smooth look.
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