Burro floor wet under the linoleum: is this a condensation problem? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-03-2012, 12:57 PM   #29
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I will have to take a much closer look the next time I am at the winter makeover HQ in another 2 weeks. I have a 1980, which may have some structural variations from the more recent 1990s models. But I do feel like the two halves definitely are fused in the interior below the windows....I have not paid a lot of close attention to what it looks like inside, at the ceiling.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #30
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When you go, take a bunch of these in case you need them-
Attached Images
  
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
When you go, take a bunch of these in case you need them-


I thought I might prophylactically wrap a roll of duct tape all the way around!
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:09 PM   #32
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Now that is an interesting idea, an egg refinished with duct tape! No worries about a dull gelcoat. They even have different colors of duct tape now, so you'd have great flexibility in decorating style. Maybe a combination of Red and Green?
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:58 PM   #33
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I considered this too after watching the YouTube video of the kid and dad who made and entire camper out of duct tape. It even goes into detail about how to layer it just right to eliminate leaking. Of course I am a bit of a geek.
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:09 PM   #34
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I KNOW you are all just pulling someone's leg talking about duct tape on a trailer. The glue turns to concrete and is nearly impossible to get off. Ask me how I know! Okay, lessons learned and if I use duct tape... it won't be on the trailer for more than a day or two at most and most definitely NOT when the ambient temperature is hot. I consider duct tape to be as nasty as silicone on my trailer... run Will Robinson, run!
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:05 PM   #35
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I don't play an engineer on TV but my best wag is that two flanges roughly 3/4" in height bonded together with resin would have about the same resistance to separation as the same flanges held together with Jim's paper clips. I hate climbing out on that roof (usually use a duck board extending off a section of scaffold) despite the beam section created by the longitudinal "clerestory" that assures proper headroom for the "vertically challenged" (anyone over 5' 11"). Most likely the halves are both bonded at the flanges AND strapped across the seam on the interior. Home Makeover, Trailer Edition will certainly reveal the truth in the case of Jen's 13. Let us know, Jen.

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Old 01-05-2012, 06:04 PM   #36
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Three thoughts---

--It occurs to me that the vertical flange is structural in that much like a piece of angle iron it will provide rigidity to the roof. I would be reluctant to "flatten" it.

--While trying to find a leak we had duct tape on the belly band and the back windows of our Trillium for about a month which included a couple of weeks in the outer banks of North Carolina in June and did not experience the issues Donna refers to. The stuff came right off with minimal residue that was easily removed with Go Gone. Same story this fall when the closet door hinges let loose. I did a temporary fix on the hinges and added duct tape to hold it together. Perhaps it's a brand issue. In the past I've used either 3m or Duck brand. Just bought some from Ace. We'll see how that behaves.

-- Finally I would definitely seal the flange on top to keep water from working its way in and then in the winter freezing, expanding, and creating a leak. I realize where you are you don't get the winter we do here in VT, still it's a consideration. Raz
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:18 PM   #37
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This is a great debate on the value of the flange. I'll be heading over to winter makeover HQ this weekend and we'll eye the thing up and go from there. I'll report back! Thanks all for the input!
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:01 PM   #38
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Raz, your point about "brand" of duct tape may be spot on. I think I bought the cheap stuff... thought I'd have to chisel the glue off...

Jen, we'll wait for your follow up!
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:55 AM   #39
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Raz, your point about "brand" of duct tape may be spot on. I think I bought the cheap stuff... thought I'd have to chisel the glue off...

Jen, we'll wait for your follow up!
Yet another victim of Dollar store duct tape. I saw some stuff called Gorilla tape the other day. I don't think I would use that either.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:33 PM   #40
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Duct tape removal

We borrowed our son's casita last year. The previous owner had duct taped a forsale sign to the door leaving residual sticky stuff behind.

I used WD40 on a micro cloth to remove it. Not easy but it worked.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:14 AM   #41
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Quick update direct from Rucio Winter Makeover HQ: CHOP CHOP CHOP. I'll add some photos to the makover thread later.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:35 PM   #42
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As an addendum on the great Flange Controversy, it occurs to me that when the halves of Humpty were laid up, that flange was basically there to get em to "pop". All molds have draft or taper in the direction of eventual removal of the part (if they don't the part is very effectively trapped and the mold has to be destroyed to get it out). I have seen shallow draft molds from which parts jumped up or popped on their own and I have seen some that took a lot of compressed air and prying to lift. Can't pry without something to pry against so I'm guessing that the flange is primarily a place to put a wedge or crow and also some reinforcement to maintain the shape of the part at what becomes the centerline when mated with other half. More of a fabrication necessity than a contributor to final strength of the centerline joint.

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