butyl tape and my boler windows - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-19-2019, 05:26 PM   #1
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Name: Daryl
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 17
butyl tape and my boler windows

Hi all

I'm in the process of replacing all the butyl tape on my 1976 17' boler windows. Getting the screws out and cleaning off the old butyl has been pretty smooth. I hope the rest of the windows come out as easy as the first few.

I will be buying the butyl tape from Vintage Trailer supply and was wondering is anyone could suggest what size tape I should buy ? It comes in the following options:

1/2" Wide X 1/16" Thick $4.23
3/4" Wide X 1/16" Thick $6.24
3/4" Wide X 1/8" Thick $6.72
1" Wide X 1/8" Thick $8.79

My window flange is about 5/8 - 3/4" so I think the 3/4" should be suffice. The 1" is probably overkill? But should I be going with the 1/16" thick or 1/8" thick. Is more better or overkill?

My other question is has anyone had success with just replacing the butyl tape to solve leak issues or have you had to replace window seals as well. My glass window seals look difficult to remove?

Thanks in advance for all help and suggestions.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:13 PM   #2
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
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If it's not wide enough, you can use 2 parallel strips. If it's not thick enough, you can use 2 layers. If you use too much, it just means more to clean up. I redid my Bigfoot and used 3/4 by 1/16, and in a few areas where there was a slight variation (curve) in the fiberglass, I used 2 layers. Cleaning both surfaces is the most important part. The new tape should last 20 years or more.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:36 PM   #3
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500, 1979 Boler 1700
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Daryl, we recently finished removing and resealing all of the windows in our 1979 Boler 17. We used 3/4"x1/8" butyl tape. To answer your next question, was that enough to stop leaking, the answer is NO, it wasn't.

Here are other measures we had to take to completely reseal the Boler 17 windows:

- In some of the windows, the sealant between the glass pane and the aluminum sash/frame had leached out over a period of 40 years to the point that water was getting in. When this happens, the glass pane has to be removed from the sash/frame and re-sealed with 1/16"x1/8" butyl tape or 1/16"x1/8" polyurethane two-sided tape (glazing tape) or glazing silicone sealant. May be best to have a glass shop do this.

- The lower track must be thoroughly cleaned and flushed out so that water drains out through the weep holes.

- Some of the window frame joints leaked because sealant applied to those joints when the window was manufactured 40 years ago had failed. The window frame joints that leak when tested should be resealed with polyurethane sealant such as 3M 5200 sealant. EDIT: I am referring to fabrication joints, such as butt joints in the frame. If you look closely, you'll see that sealant has been applied, but typically its disintegrating.

EDIT: And yes we are in the process of replacing many of the seals, e.g., we are replacing the Hehr glazing seals inserted around each glass pane in the sliding and fixed pane windows, although these particular seals don't actually prevent water intrusion. In this case its the sealant behind the window pane that prevents water intrusion (see first bullet).
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Old 02-20-2019, 03:50 AM   #4
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl05 View Post
Hi all

I'm in the process of replacing all the butyl tape on my 1976 17' boler windows. Getting the screws out and cleaning off the old butyl has been pretty smooth. I hope the rest of the windows come out as easy as the first few.

I will be buying the butyl tape from Vintage Trailer supply and was wondering is anyone could suggest what size tape I should buy ? It comes in the following options:

1/2" Wide X 1/16" Thick $4.23
3/4" Wide X 1/16" Thick $6.24
3/4" Wide X 1/8" Thick $6.72
1" Wide X 1/8" Thick $8.79

My window flange is about 5/8 - 3/4" so I think the 3/4" should be suffice. The 1" is probably overkill? But should I be going with the 1/16" thick or 1/8" thick. Is more better or overkill?

My other question is has anyone had success with just replacing the butyl tape to solve leak issues or have you had to replace window seals as well. My glass window seals look difficult to remove?

Thanks in advance for all help and suggestions.
I don't have a Boler but when I took the windows out of my trailer to put in new Butyl tape I took apart my windows and replaced all the various vinyl seals they were assembled with. In my case it was a real head scratcher and a lot of searching to find suitable replacement materials. Sometimes I found an exact match, other times I had to improvise. 1971 was a long time ago.
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:57 AM   #5
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Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
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I have resealed all the windows on our '79 Boler. I used 1/8 ◊ 3/4 butyl and doubled it up on all the windows. I also replaced all the glazing strip as the original had shrunk. I also cleaned all the weep holes. Then while I had every window out I tinted all of them.No more leaks at all.
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:52 AM   #6
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Name: Daryl
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Daryl, we recently finished removing and resealing all of the windows in our 1979 Boler 17. We used 3/4"x1/8" butyl tape. To answer your next question, was that enough to stop leaking, the answer is NO, it wasn't.

Here are other measures we had to take to completely reseal the Boler 17 windows:

- In some of the windows, the sealant between the glass pane and the aluminum sash/frame had leached out over a period of 40 years to the point that water was getting in. When this happens, the glass pane has to be removed from the sash/frame and re-sealed with 1/16"x1/8" butyl tape or 1/16"x1/8" polyurethane two-sided tape (glazing tape) or glazing silicone sealant. May be best to have a glass shop do this.

- The lower track must be thoroughly cleaned and flushed out so that water drains out through the weep holes.

- Some of the window frame joints leaked because sealant applied to those joints when the window was manufactured 40 years ago had failed. The window frame joints that leak when tested should be resealed with polyurethane sealant such as 3M 5200 sealant. EDIT: I am referring to fabrication joints, such as butt joints in the frame. If you look closely, you'll see that sealant has been applied, but typically its disintegrating.

EDIT: And yes we are in the process of replacing many of the seals, e.g., we are replacing the Hehr glazing seals inserted around each glass pane in the sliding and fixed pane windows, although these particular seals don't actually prevent water intrusion. In this case its the sealant behind the window pane that prevents water intrusion (see first bullet).
Thanks for all the great info. I have a couple windows out so I will run them over to the glass shop to see if they could do it! Appreciate the help !!!
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:53 AM   #7
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Name: Daryl
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ststefan View Post
I have resealed all the windows on our '79 Boler. I used 1/8 ◊ 3/4 butyl and doubled it up on all the windows. I also replaced all the glazing strip as the original had shrunk. I also cleaned all the weep holes. Then while I had every window out I tinted all of them.No more leaks at all.
Ok great maybe I will just double it up to be safe. Thanks !
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:55 AM   #8
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Name: Daryl
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
I don't have a Boler but when I took the windows out of my trailer to put in new Butyl tape I took apart my windows and replaced all the various vinyl seals they were assembled with. In my case it was a real head scratcher and a lot of searching to find suitable replacement materials. Sometimes I found an exact match, other times I had to improvise. 1971 was a long time ago.
Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:44 AM   #9
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Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
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devils chalk

3M 5200 is considered a permanent seal. Some persons on the interweb call it devils chalk because it is so difficult to remove something that is adhered with it. 4200 or 4000 is for items that have to be removed some day. Here is a video on the products.


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Old 03-02-2019, 01:07 PM   #10
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Name: Paul
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 3
17 foot boler window replacement

Hi, I just did my big boler windows, use the good quality butyl tape, there is a lower cost one that my local rv guy says never use. I took the glass out of the frames and cleaned it up and resealed with a black urethane glazer chaulk (can't remember the name, but it's what all glass shops use) I replaced the seals around the windows with new seals that are still a standard stocking item at rv shops, just bring a piece of the old one for matching up. I am trying to rebuilt all the seals on window above the hot water heater but am having trouble finding all the seals, I have tried Vintage trailer supply but they don't have all of the types to redo that window.

I also took the belly band off and discovered a manufacturing flaw, the two halves of the shell are stuck together with a fiberglass patch but it doesn't seal around the where the hot water heater is, water gets in between the two halves and runs down on top of the hot water heater. I fixed this by sealing the belly band gap (after cleaning it) with the 3M product mentioned above and put in new pieces of wood around the hot water heater opening, as the originals were rotten. Viola 40 year old leak fixed. That leak has also caused rot in a small section of the floor and that is the next thing to fix.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:39 PM   #11
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Name: Garbonz
Trailer: Bigfoot
Colorado
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The absolute best butyl tape is Bed-it tape by Compass Marine. It's in a whole league by itself.
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Old 03-12-2019, 04:47 PM   #12
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Name: Julie
Trailer: trail mite
Washington
Posts: 20
Hi, The side window glass broke this winter on my 72 Trailmite. I'm not sure of the process that I need to do to replace it. I would appreciate any help.
Thank you,
Julie
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:07 PM   #13
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Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: Boler 1978 17' 4" Earlton Ont Model
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Window help

Quote:
Originally Posted by ststefan View Post
I have resealed all the windows on our '79 Boler. I used 1/8 ◊ 3/4 butyl and doubled it up on all the windows. I also replaced all the glazing strip as the original had shrunk. I also cleaned all the weep holes. Then while I had every window out I tinted all of them.No more leaks at all.
We have a 78 boler cleaned and replaced the weep units, changed out all the glazing strips but really could use some pictures of your work removing the windows if you have any, we have the radius units from Huer on your unit.
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:36 PM   #14
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden View Post
We have a 78 boler cleaned and replaced the weep units, changed out all the glazing strips but really could use some pictures of your work removing the windows if you have any, we have the radius units from Huer on your unit.
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the removal process. The only pictures I have are these. They are Hehr windows. Most of the windows are easy to remove. Just remove the screws from the inside flange and then the flange itself. Then carefully pry a corner of the window from the outside.
The only ones i had a little trouble with were the two rear side windows. On our '79 Boler 17', the screws are hard to get at because of the rear bunk supports. I have a small 1/4" rachet that holds screwdriver tips. I was able to get the screws out with it.
I wanted to replace the screws with stainless steel screws but couldn't find them readily here in Canada so on one of our trips to the U.S. I went to Home Depot and goe a whole wack of 3/4"◊#8 stainless screws.
If you chose to use stainless screws I wouls using an anti seize compount to keep them from galling and seizing. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-17-2019, 02:54 PM   #15
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Steve,



Interesting, when I was working on my Hilo, I wanted to replace the existing deteriorated SS screws which were robbies, so I went to Home Hardware in Gananoque, Ontario, Canada to purchase them. Its only about 100 miles from my house.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:01 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
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Steve,



Interesting, when I was working on my Hilo, I wanted to replace the existing deteriorated SS screws which were robbies, so I went to Home Hardware in Gananoque, Ontario, Canada to purchase them. Its only about 100 miles from my house.
I tried Canadian Tire, Lowes, Rona, Home Depot and HNT tools here in B.C. None of them carried 3/4◊#8 stainless screws. I thought it was strange because 3/4" is one of the more common sizes being used.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ststefan View Post
I tried Canadian Tire, Lowes, Rona, Home Depot and HNT tools here in B.C. None of them carried 3/4◊#8 stainless screws. I thought it was strange because 3/4" is one of the more common sizes being used.
Think eBay. I don't waste time looking for specialty fasteners at the various box stores. Waste of time around here.
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