Butyl tape - HOW TO APPLY - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-07-2008, 02:03 PM   #1
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I have bought the butyl tape to re-do the windows in my 74 trillium - I iwll be diving in on the job tomorrow -
I will pull the windows and clean up the window frames etc (maybe replace if rotten) and repalce the screws with stainless...

do I apply the buytl to the back of the window frame, or to the fiberglass and then screw through it?

Which method to use?

thanks

Barry
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:54 PM   #2
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I don't know if there is a predetermined way to add the chalking but IMHO: if you add it to the window frame and have to redo it at some later date, the mess is on the window which is easier to work with off the trailer and on a bench! Having said that, I also do not know if this tape is sticky both sides or not, seeing as how I've never used it.....
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:03 PM   #3
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Doug, it is double sided and very odd to work with. When attaching a porch light I battled with it quite a bit - it's like stiff gum once the tape sides are removed and you want to make sure you cut it clean.

Barry, found this pdf on installing on house windows. Looks like applying it to the frame first using setting blocks to hold it off the frame until aligned is what they recommend:
http://www.eaglesealants.com/_mndata/eagle...nstructions.pdf

Edit: here is an RV specific short article - they recommend apply to window, not rv.
http://www.rvtechtips.com/?cat=16
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:19 PM   #4
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I removed the Air Conditioner this summer and sealed it with this stuff when i re-installed it.

It is extremely sticky on both sides when you apply it. I applied it to the fiberglass and then lowered the AC on top of it.

You will need to make sure the screw holes line up with the frame and fiberglass so it may be easier put it on the frame then screw it down to the fiberglass.

When you screw the frame to the fiberglass, it will Oz out the sides of the frame. If you leave that for a couple of days then use a razor knife to trim down the sides of the frame, it comes off rather well. Do it to soon and it's like trimming bubblegum.

I think the secret of this stuff is that it fills all voids, remains somewhat soft and does an extremely good job at sealing out the water.
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:23 PM   #5
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The wonder of the butyl is it stays reasonably soft and pliable. I removed the window in the door of my Scamp and didnt' have any problems with getting the old stuff off and then applying new. I used a plastic knife to remove the excess. Easy to do and won't scar the gelcoat.
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:38 PM   #6
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I am very glad this topic came up, we are about to instal a vent fan in the roof soon. Does anyone know how long the tape has to set up before it can be in the rain?

Thanks for the posting and the info!
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:45 PM   #7
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I am very glad this topic came up, we are about to instal a vent fan in the roof soon. Does anyone know how long the tape has to set up before it can be in the rain?

Thanks for the posting and the info!
I'd think almost immediately, it's not like it has to skim over or dry in any way. Be sure to read this great topic, it's almost a tutorial! Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing, Split topic
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:09 PM   #8
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Which method to use?

Barry
Hi Barry, after doing two windows and the roof vent, I would without hesitation recommend applying to the frame first. It is maybe a little more tricky holding and placing the window, but it prevents "missing" the spot on the window frame where you want your best seal.

My front window frame was rotten, after I got the window out I knew why, when they applied the original putty tape at the factory, when they applied it they didn't get it out to the outside edges of the frame. The tape was so close to the inside of the frame, it missed the fiberglass completely, and left some of the wooden frame exposed to 32 years of water.

Make sure to get the tape out to the edge of the frame so you get a good seal to the fiberglass to keep the water away from the wood.
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:16 PM   #9
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April,

I just traded out the old fan for a new Fantastic Fan. The factory installed fan had butyl tape between the fan and the roof, then caulking all the way around.

I did the same. I put the butyl tape on the fan and with a couple of rivets through the holes and tape I was able to line up with the holes on the trailer. After putting all the 26 or 28 rivets in, I put a dobble of caulk on each rivet and then ran a nice little bead all the way around the edge of the fan to the trailer.

The butyl tape I purchased is about 1/2 inch wide, the flange on the fan was more like 1 inch so the tape didn't ooze out.
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Old 11-07-2008, 11:02 PM   #10
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I did three of the four windows in my Surf Side this year. I applied the Butly tape to the aluminum window frame . Someone pointed out in an earlier post that there are different widths of tape. I think I used 1" and I applied it so it was tight to the inside edge of the flange with the screw holes. Maybe it was a bit too wide, but the only result was that quite a bit squished out when I tightened the new screws. Maybe 3/4" would have been wide enough. I used stainless steel screws as I did a few years ago when I did the first window. Butyl tape works really well for windows and for the Fantastic Fan I installed on the roof. Another tip is that if window winders are at all iffy this is often an easier time to change them than when the window is installed.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:02 PM   #11
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Name: Karen
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Hi, haven't taken the time to introduce myself yet because i've been too busy following these super helpful threads. I have a question about windows...I understand the whole butyl putty tape thing but when I purchased the Burro the previous owner recommended or at least he was planing to redo the windows before he decided to sell with...1/8" glass glazing bead... has anyone here does done such a thing or can share some information about it with me? Karen
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:20 PM   #12
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Hi Karen,

Welcome to the forum! (You might want to introduce yourself and your camper by starting a new thread.) Anyway, to answer your question, its possible the previous owner was referring to the Hehr 1/8" glazing seal as described in the link below. It is pressed in around each window pane.

Pelland Enterprises Motor Home Products - Pelland Enterprises

John

EDIT: Looks like you did create an intro thread. Great!
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:29 AM   #13
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I found that freezing the butyl roll of tape before using

makes it less sticky to handle.It is a lot easier to work with when cold.
Put it on the window flange.

Also, the 1 inch wide butyl tape is thicker than 3/4 inch butyl tape.
The excess oozes out as the SS screws are tightened and comes off easily
with a plastic putty knife. Better too much butyl to fill all the voids

than too little butyl.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:23 PM   #14
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On curved walls there may be an advantage to having a chilled rolled out second piece laid over the main one to make the tape thicker at the curve edges. Especially top corners.

Good idea to check fit before putting on butyl tape and attaching. Look to see if when window frame is pushed firmly into the opening are there places that have more gap. On my Scamp it is top corners of front window and one side window again near the top where the walls curve in as well as start curving to make the rounded corners.

The wall on mine has a bit more curve than the aluminum frame. A second thin layer of tape over the one going all the way around at those corners gives "squish out" all the way around indicating a tight seal. No extra means not enough at the corners to squish out.
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