Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-28-2006, 08:53 PM   #15
Con
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Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
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Hi, I had hand fulls of white plastic or nylon washers left over from a metal garden shed
The truss head bolts and the washers are bothe 3/8'dia. The washers are just soft enough to give a good seal when I tighten up the nuts on the inside.That is all I used on the out side of the shell. I am sure you could pick them up by the bag full from places like Home Depot etc.
On the inside were there was no metal to back up the nuts, I used #10 SS washers so the nut would not pinch the Ensolite liner and start winding it around the bolt. With the curtain rods brackets and such I just used the accorn nut.
The advantage of using 10-24 bolts is that they are the same size as the 3/16" pop rivets I drilled out. It has worked out very well as I stated, not one leak since.
Look at he pictures on my thread under Modifications and on Webshots. Below my signature is a direct link to Webshots. I gave tried to provide as much info as possible with them for a guide to others.
One phyloshipy? To follow when restoring these EGGS. "Try to go to cheap and it will come back to haunt you, spend a little more and do it right and do it once." Who wants to be working on it when you and the family are supposed to be having a good time. Do you work at home!
Lots of luck
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:40 PM   #16
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Thanks Con for your detailed explanation! It's a big help to us!

Your Boler photos/slideshow is truely an inspiration, full of excellent ideas and great craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Jeanne
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Old 02-28-2006, 11:15 PM   #17
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You have to realize that the Boler we bought had only two previous owners and both took good care of it and kept it under cover so it is in excellant condition. Most people would have been perfectly happy with the way it was, but not me , i had to get in there and start twicking things, modernize it little. It has been a fun project and I still have some things I want to do to it. Leaving them out in the weather detrys them in a hurry. I have enough room in my shop to store it when not in use.
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Old 02-28-2006, 11:32 PM   #18
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ok this may sound stupid but why cant you use silicon on fiberglass trailers ???
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Old 02-28-2006, 11:52 PM   #19
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My experience and many of my friends has been that it just does not stand up to the weather on PF or any other surface for that matter and last like the manufacturers claim it will.
Our pricey all alum. horse trailer with its tinted alum. framed tilt out doors and windows have Silicone all around them. Most of it is peeling or coming off in chunks. There are much better products out there today. Use it at you own risk!
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Old 03-01-2006, 07:39 AM   #20
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I used to think that butyl tape was putty tape but found that they are actually two seperate things. I believe that butyl tape is sticky-backed rubber (I have found it in white and black) and the putty tape is literally gray putty. Even though I CALLED it butyl tape, what I actually used when I reinstalled my range hood vent was putty tape. It's held up really well.

Not that it matters, as long as it works. I just wanted to kinda 'splain it in case someone ordered some.
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Old 03-01-2006, 12:51 PM   #21
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For those of you that need to know or want to know here are a few sites to read up on Butyl Tape.
Quote:"Butyl is a common term used for the isobutylene isoprene elastomer. As the name implies, butyl is comprised of isobutylene with a small amount of isoprene. It is known for its excellent resistance to water, steam, alkalis, and oxygenated solvents. Another outstanding characteristic is low gas permeation. Butyl is capable of providing high energy absorption (dampening) and good hot tear strength. Good resistances to heat, abrasion, oxygen, ozone."

http://www.plusind.com/Butyl.html
http://www.chemtron.ca/tape404_right.html
http://www.plustape.com/BK/index.htm

As you found out Suz, Putty Tape and Butyl Tape are two entirely different products. I believe Putty Tape will eventually harden up much like Plumbers putty. I am not sure what our 77 Boler had on the windows when I replaced them but it was gray and hard a rock, came off in chunks.
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Old 03-01-2006, 05:28 PM   #22
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Whew! Thanks for calling this out Suz and Con. I have a roll of what I thought was Butyl tape but from your explanation...can only be putty tape. I don't believe I have ever seen the real Butyl tape. Is it usually boxed? Does it only come in white and black? Do you have a good source?
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
I used to think that butyl tape was putty tape but found that [b]they are actually two seperate things. I believe that butyl tape is sticky-backed rubber (I have found it in white and black) and the putty tape is literally gray putty. Even though I CALLED it butyl tape, what I actually used when I reinstalled my range hood vent was putty tape. It's held up really well.

Not that it matters, as long as it works. I just wanted to kinda 'splain [b]it in case someone ordered some.
I KNEW I was procrastinating on pulling all my windows for a reason.
I just have a big supply of gray putty tape!
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:20 PM   #24
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Butyl tape should be available at any RV Parts and Repair parts dept.
It comes in gray, white and black but most will likely have gray. Personally I like and used the gray as I thinks it will not show dirt etc. as the two other colors. Excess squeezed out trims off very easy. Any little bits that stick to the shell or window frame can be cleaned off with ordinary gas and a cloth. I would reccommend not using any thing else. Gas does not hurt the Butyl in any way.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:16 AM   #25
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Thanks, Con, for the links.
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Old 03-03-2006, 10:22 PM   #26
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I have said it in my thread and on the my pictures on Webshots....
That is great information Con about making gaskets. I am going to do this during the restorations on my 13' Scamp. Would you also recommend using rubber gasket behind the drain outlat port,fresh water inlet port and power cord hatch?
I started sealing my windows last night. I tried the small kitchen window first. I applied the butyl tape to the window, set the window, installed all screws around the retaining ring, trimmed the tape edge with dull knive. It looked great last night. Today it appears that I need to trim another 1/8" of excess tape again. Is this normal? The tape seams to have expanded. This is my first time using butyl tape. Please help.
Thanks,
Gary Little
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:42 PM   #27
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Hi! Install gaskets where ever you can. They are a good way to prevent potential leaks. Also the method Per has recommended is good. When I rebuilt our door there was nothing behind the door latch to stop water getting in. Some of the members have had a real problem with their doors being really satuated. If you need heaver gaskets, car tire tubes are good to.

When you are on the road with your tailer, everything is in motion and moving causing the hardward to move and scuff the paint or gelcoat and elongate bolt and rivet holes. For example, many of these trailers have doors that are drooping, causing a bad fit because the hinge bolts are only through the fiberglass thereby allowing the door to leak. Almost all the hardware I took off on the outsde left scuff marks, some thru the gelcoat. I solved the sagging door problem on ours by welding 1/4" thick alum. hinge plates to the alum. frame I built into the door. No more problem, a least not yet!

As far as the butyl tape still squezzing out, yes that is common for a few days till everything settles and finds it level. You have to realize that you are squezzing about 1/8"tape down to maybe under 1/16". Don't over tighten the screws!

Another tip for you that was on the forum before it got hacked, something that I haven't done yet. Pull off your outside louvered panels for the stove, fridge, what have you and install some screens in there. It will keep the mosquitos from coming thru there and under the counter and into the trailer when you are camped at night. I have been fishing at some lakes where they could pack a moose away!!!
Enjoy.
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:52 PM   #28
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For any one else contiplating removing and resealing your windows, don't let it scare you.
It is not complicated and does not require special training or tools. It just requires a little common sense and taking your time. I had anticipated some problems but it went much smooter that I thought. The biggest job for ours was filling in the square corners, rivet holes to fit the newer style radius corner windows. Once I had that done that it went slick. Once you have done it you will be proud of you self and the end appearence.
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