Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-04-2006, 07:25 AM   #29
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For any one else contiplating removing and resealing your windows, don't let it scare you.
It is not complicated and does not require special training or tools. It just requires a little common sense and taking your time. I had anticipated some problems but it went much smooter that I thought. The biggest job for ours was filling in the square corners, rivet holes to fit the newer style radius corner windows. Once I had that done that it went slick. Once you have done it you will be proud of you self and the end appearence.
Thanks Con. Should I let the butyl tape set for a while before I trim the excess?

Gary Little
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:55 AM   #30
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Yes! BTW is the glass in your window a pebble grain tinted, that's what it looks like in the pic?
I haven't seen too many like that.
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:41 AM   #31
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Con,

One place noted that their "Black tape is non-trimmable."

Have you ever run across this before?
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:51 AM   #32
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Yes! But I have not used it on any applications as yet.
See attached jpg re: tape
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Old 03-11-2006, 10:40 PM   #33
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Yes! BTW is the glass in your window a pebble grain tinted, that's what it looks like in the pic?
I haven't seen too many like that.
No. It is not tinted. The paint shop wants me to install the windows before they paint. Is this the best way? I was kinda afraid to pull the camper up the highway (10 miles away) to the paint shop without windows in it anyway. I thought I would Butly tape ans install the windows and then do a final sealing with Per's perferred sealant after the paint job. What do you think?
What does "BTW" mean?
Thanks,
Gary Little
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Old 03-11-2006, 11:23 PM   #34
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my roof vent has a small leak somewhere and I've been gooping it up w/ silicone to no avail....will peeling the silicone off from up on the roof and vent itself and replace with flexiseal be the better approach?

Dan
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Old 03-11-2006, 11:50 PM   #35
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If y'all have never used "GOOP" for RV before give it a try.

Here is a link. http://eclecticproducts.com/goop/ad_rv.asp

You can pick it up just about anywhere, it is awesome stuff. It is self leveling, it will RUN if put on thick on a verticle surface.

It will not hold if silicone residue is not removed first.
You can paint it. My egg had spider cracks around the edge, before I repainted it I spread a thin bead around the edge and then painted. It is nice and smooth.

Another nice thing about GOOP, it will not attract dust.

Give it a try,
don

PS, My dad had a saying he picked up from an old snake oil salesman.
" It will make your life brighter, your teeth whiter and child birth a meeer pleasure."
It's GOOD STUFF !!
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Old 03-12-2006, 07:55 AM   #36
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my roof vent has a small leak somewhere and I've been gooping it up w/ silicone to no avail....will peeling the silicone off from up on the roof and vent itself and replace with flexiseal be the better approach?
Dan
Removing ALL the silicone, pulling the vent off and applying butyl, remounting and then a final reseal with flexiseal is the method I'd use. Flexiseal goes around the outside, not between the vent and the body. At least that's the impression I get from Per's pictures. Getting the silicone off is the hard part. Pulling the vent and getting any old butyl off is easy. I just pulled the door window on my Scamp and the old butyl just peeled away cleanly.

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No. It is not tinted. The paint shop wants me to install the windows before they paint. Is this the best way? I was kinda afraid to pull the camper up the highway (10 miles away) to the paint shop without windows in it anyway. I thought I would Butly tape ans install the windows and then do a final sealing with Per's perferred sealant after the paint job. What do you think?
What does "BTW" mean?
Thanks,
Gary Little
I think ultimately it would be best to paint without the windows...I know anyone building a quality classic car has it painted in pieces and definitely without windows. But I guess in this situation it would depend upon the paint shop, color being applied and how hard it would be to seal up the inside to protect from overspray. The reasoning for not having windows is based upon the fact if the window is removed in the future for any reason, will it fit back EXACTLY in the same place, if not, there will always be an area where the old finish shows around the window.

BTW = By The Way
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Old 03-12-2006, 11:59 AM   #37
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You are exactly right Donna.
When I was helping my neighbor with the painting on street rods and show cars it was always better to mask out the openings and paint with no windows. Then when you reinstall the windows and trim you get a nice clean job. When doing cars with the windows and trim still on, we had to mask what is called "Close Masking" Doug Mayer will know all about that I expect being a street rodder.
I worked for awhile in an autobody shop during the dirty mid 80's when I couldn't get work in my own filed. We were told to not mask close there and they had several customers complained about the paint showing on the trim. I had to spend hours cleaning and scraping the paint of the metal trim. Where was the saving in that? They should have left me alone to do it right.
My advice, paint with the windows out!
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:56 PM   #38
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Sorry Doug, I spelled you name wrong as Mayer instead of Mager
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Old 03-13-2006, 02:58 PM   #39
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I suspect I muddied the waters a bit when I posted the pictures using the "Butyl Tape" and Flexible Seal combination. The stuff looks of course like putty and in fact is. In looking into it it turns out that my local store supplies three different product categories: 1) Butyl tape, which apparently is a rubber tape with adhesive on it, 2) Butyl Putty tape, which is what I used, and 3) Plain putty tape (no butyl). Elixir Industries supplies both types of putty.

Strictly speaking I used butyl tape, but I should have said "Butyl putty tape." In the interest of accuracy I've edited my previous posts to reflect this. In times like these one has to be careful about giving out wrong information about WMDs (Water Migration Diverters).

The rolls come in various widths and are common in the 1/8" thickness and the 3/16" I used.

I'll go back to my room now.
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Old 03-14-2006, 07:07 AM   #40
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Thanks, Per. I appreciate you taking the time to explain.

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Old 03-29-2006, 12:08 AM   #41
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Pics showing sample of 1/4" Foam Ensolite,"T" Joint moulding. 10-24x3/4" SS Truss Head bolt, PVC washer and SS Acorn nut as discussed previously.

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Old 03-29-2006, 12:12 AM   #42
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Another angle

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