Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-30-2007, 05:27 PM   #57
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I have read a number of times of people using 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant for caulking the bellyband and around windows. I found some 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 at Home Depot today, but didn't buy it because 1) It says it's permanent and the HD employee I spoke with said it won't damage fiberglass, but it will tear apart a vent if I use it around a vent that I later have to remove; 2) the label says it has a very high % of VOCs and I would like to minimize my exposure to VOCs. Is there anything less toxic, but long-lasting, to replace the icky-looking silicone caulk that I am removing?

I found something called "ProflexRV" tripolymer sealant at Camping World that says it's specifically designed for resisting all the movement and UV exposure that RV's get. The VOC content is still significant, but less than that other stuff. Has anyone tried this? I did an online search on Flexiseal too and what comes up does not seem like what was used on the trailer... where does one get that white stuff that is used around vents that is getting referred to as "Flexiseal?"

Thanks!
Try Butyl Tape.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:44 PM   #58
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As I understand it, butyl tape is for placing between vents and the body, not for caulking around windows, along the bellyband, etc. I am looking for a fiberglass-appropriate caulk for this type of application...
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:35 PM   #59
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... where does one get that white stuff that is used around vents that is getting referred to as "Flexiseal?"
We bought Flexible Seal (by AC Products) at our local RV store. This is the final caulking that Per used in his tutorial on sealants which started this thread.

Jeanne
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:48 PM   #60
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As I understand it, butyl tape is for placing between vents and the body, not for caulking around windows, along the bellyband, etc. I am looking for a fiberglass-appropriate caulk for this type of application...
Ahh, I misunderstood.
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:50 PM   #61
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We bought Flexible Seal (by AC Products) at our local RV store. This is the final caulking that Per used in his tutorial on sealants which started this thread.

Jeanne
Thank you, Jeanne, I will look for that specific product here.

Val
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:00 PM   #62
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Jeanne and Steve, Val and Kayla, et. al.:

It is possible that I have made a major mistake in recommending FlexibleSeal. It was certainly recommended to me, and it works well, etc. but I have found that over time it yellows a bit, probably from UV exposure. Not appetizing.

So I went to my local West Marine store, thinking they might know something about this. The local store seems to have several employees who give the impression that they have been personally and intimately involved in the ins and outs of fiberglass and gelcoat. I described the problem and they recommended 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000UV.

Their reasoning also included the idea that this is meant to be a sealant with great "cosmetic" qualities, i.e. it stays white over time, and since the butyl putty tape is the "real" sealant for our cute little vents and windows this would be what I really wanted.

The description says: "Premium cosmetic sealant, stays flexible. Exceptional protection against harsh marine environment. Superior UV resistance. <1% VOCs, low odor."

I'm going to try this product soon, and if I find it lives up to the hype I will report on it (probably after 1-3 years) along with a huge apology if it lives up to expectations.

On edit. A caution: on the 3M 4000, found both on the tube and from the sales people: The stuff, once opened, supposedly starts curing throughout the tube (meant for a caulking gun), so until I have checked it out I will plan to have enough sealing to do to make it worth the tube. I'm also unable as of now to find a screw cap for it of the right size so far, so I'm holding off until I can determine what its shelf life is once it is opened and resealed with a good cap.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:05 PM   #63
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This is the stuff I have used on my redo. It is available at Wally for about $6.50 a tube in the tiny marine section.
Very good sealant to use with fiberglass. It does stay flexible and seals well.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:44 PM   #64
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Well, that's excellent information, thank you. The guys at Home Depot swore by the 3M Marine adhesive sealant that they had (the 5200), however it seemed intended for places that one would never, ever, ever take it off, which may not be the case if, for example, a vent needs some maintenance and needs to be temporarily removed. I figured there had to be one that was a little less permanent, and it sounds as though Per and Greg have found just the thing in the3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000UV and with low VOC to boot (the 5200 VOC was off the charts). We can only try these things out for ourselves and, as Per indicated, share with each other how well they perform over time. It's still the trial and error method, but sharing info and resources does reduce the errors in the long run.

Thank you!
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:15 AM   #65
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I am in the process of removing and resealing resealing the windows in my 1977 Scamp. I noticed that they were installed using a foam tape. I took a peice to the local glass shop and asked if he had any.
He said no but that it was called glazing tape.
Technology LK in the links section has double sided glazing tape which I have used to reseal 3 windows so far. It is a closed cell foam with glue on both sides. It is neat and easy and I really doubt that it will leak.
Not paying attention I put the first window in upside down and had a terrible time getting it out because the tape was so strong.
I figuered that since the windowns had been installed with the same basic tape and were not leaking after 30 years I would try it.
I was wondering if anyone else has used glazing tape to reseal their windows?

John
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:54 PM   #66
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On edit. [b]A caution: [b] on the 3M 4000, found both on the tube and from the sales people: The stuff, once opened, supposedly starts curing throughout the tube (meant for a caulking gun), so until I have checked it out I will plan to have enough sealing to do to make it worth the tube. I'm also unable as of now to find a screw cap for it of the right size so far, so I'm holding off until I can determine what its shelf life is once it is opened and resealed with a good cap.
Caution is right!! I don't suggest you open a tube of this stuff unless your going to use it within a day or 2 at the most. I was using it to re-glue some cabinet components, left the tube with the customary 1/4 - 1/2 inch "sacrifice plug" on the end. When I came back to finnish it off the next day it was hard all the way down the nozzle, and required a 6 inch screwdriver to open up a path for the remainder to come out.


Seems like good stuff tho. Sets up fast, and is tougher than snot! I had to cut, scrape, and sand some that got dropped on the floor. Just don't wipe your fingers on your jeans.
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:10 PM   #67
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Update on using 3M Marine Grade 4000 UV: To prevent it from curing in the tube if you don't use it all in one go, wrap a piece of saran wrap around the nozzle and stick the tube in the fridge... it lasts a long time in there, and just needs to be brought back to room temperature before using it again (so it flows decently).
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:43 PM   #68
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Val and Kayla:
If that is true you have saved my sealin' life. I may even do a test seal and test out your advice too. The stuff is too expensive to throw out half-used (I'm cheap). Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:55 PM   #69
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You betcha! If it sits a long time, you may have to use a long nail to remove the "plug" of dried caulk that forms in the nozzle, but once you get that out and bring it to room temp, the stuff in the tube will flow just fine. This stuff really is expensive...$13 for a small tube and $20 for the caulk gun size... Youch!

Now if you find an easy way to spread the oily, sticky stuff... let us know! It took me forever to caulk a nice clean line with it because it's harder to spread than regular caulk and it doesn't clean up as well (of course, I didn't use anything toxic to clean it up with... what I finally found worked best was wetting the surface with water before smoothing it with my bare finger, and cleaning off excess with just a dry paper towel).

But I could just cry now, because it appears that I may have to razor blade through some of the caulk I just put around the belly band... it seems I may have hit some interior wires when I replaced the old rusty screws...waaahhh! I didn't think to plug the trailer in after replacing all the screws and before doing all the caulking, so my final advice is don't caulk until everything else has been checked over. Sigh.

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Old 07-04-2008, 01:20 PM   #70
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WOW!!!!!!...Thanks to all who provided such amazing and great information on this thread...Per, Donna D., Con, etc. etc....

Removing and replacing windows in our little '86 Bigfoot needs to be done for resealing, appearance and other purposes and this thread is going to be a lifesaver.



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