Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-09-2008, 09:40 AM   #71
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Can i get thoughts on using a band of butyl caulk under the windows (instead of butyl tape)? And having it squish out when tightening the screws down? Am I playing with fire if I don't use tape?
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Old 08-09-2008, 10:34 AM   #72
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Jason,
My thoughts are that butyl caulk will "set" and make it more difficult to work around if you have to do anything later on.
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Old 08-28-2008, 03:38 PM   #73
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A local rv person recommended Vulkem for sealing around windows and vents. He swears by the stuff and it is cheap--less that $5/caulk-gun-tube at Jerry's, our local home improvement center in Eugene.

http://www.tremcosealants.com/commercial/p...mp;product_id=4

Vulkem 921

Product Description:
Vulkem 921 is a one-part moisture curing, gun grade polyurethane sealant. Vulkem 921 is low modulus, durable, flexible, and offers excellent performance in moving joints. Vulkem 921 does not require a primer on most construction materials.

Basic Uses:
Vulkem 921 is an excellent general purpose sealant designed for use in precast, masonry, window and door frame perimeters and similar types of construction joints. Vulkem 921 is also suitable for continual immersion in water with the use of appropriate Vulkem primer. Vulkem 921 is designed for exterior and interior use.

Does anyone have experience with it? I plan to test it around a vent on the roof before sealing around the windows of my 1986 Bigfoot.
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Old 08-28-2008, 07:06 PM   #74
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Vulkem
Does anyone have experience with it? I plan to test it around a vent on the roof before sealing around the windows of my 1986 Bigfoot.
I've used it on my home. It's still very pliable after 8 years. I'd sure want to read the cautions, etc. carefully. It MAY not be designed to be used on fiberglass. The RV person could be using it on aluminum skinned trailers?
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:45 AM   #75
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According to what I have read it will adhere to fiberglass. The problem seems to be removing it if the time comes. Xylene works according to some, but there seems to be a difference of opinion on its safety for use on fiberglass.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:42 AM   #76
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I have said it in my thread and on the my pictures on Webshots. Thin rubber gaskets made from bicicle inner tubes make wonderfeul gaskets.
Forgive my stupid question here. How exactly do you punch out the tube to get the correct size gasket? Do you put the gasket under the SS washer? So from the outside in it goes - outside - Machine Screw Head, SS Washer, Gasket - inside - SS Washer, Hex Nut, Acorn Nut?
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:45 AM   #77
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I'm not Con, but yes, that is the order it would go in if you were using a gasket. You want a large surface (washer) to compress the gasket evenly. Of course on something with a large base, you would put the gasket under the base.

Also, I would choose one or the other: gasket or sealant, but not both.

If you can get gasket material with UV inhibitors, that would be a plus. I would look in the McMaster Carr online catalog for gasket material, as they sell small amounts to the public, deliver amazingly quickly, and give a lot of information about the properties of their products.

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Old 11-09-2010, 07:33 PM   #78
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Beth:

The method I use for vents, grilles, etc. is butyl putty tape followed by a non-silicone sealant like FlexiSeal. Here are a few pictures to illustrate the process:

The putty tape is somewhat sticky, so you press it on to cover the area to be sealed and attach the cover (screwed on in this case. This is a very small cover, so it is quite magnified):
Your post is from 2006 and i have been using your method with great success and it does a great job....butyl tape is good stuff.
Joe
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:10 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Jason, M View Post
Can i get thoughts on using a band of butyl caulk under the windows (instead of butyl tape)? And having it squish out when tightening the screws down? Am I playing with fire if I don't use tape?
Hi Jason,

People do use butyl caulk (i.e. from a tube) on boat portlights (windows) without issue. The butyl kind of separates like gooey pizza cheese when you later go to remove the window, and then you can fairly easily clean up with solvent (nothing like how it would be to clean up more "difficult" caulks).

There are two schools of thought in terms of cleaning up squeeze-out. In one, you tape neatly all around the edge of the flange, and then any squeeze-out goes onto the tape, which you later remove. In the other, you let the squeeze-out squeeze out, and then clean it up with something like a popsicle stick and then solvent.

Raya
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:07 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by Raya L. View Post
Hi Jason,


There are two schools of thought in terms of cleaning up squeeze-out. In one, you tape neatly all around the edge of the flange, and then any squeeze-out goes onto the tape, which you later remove. In the other, you let the squeeze-out squeeze out, and then clean it up with something like a popsicle stick and then solvent.

Raya
I like your idea better ....sometimes a simple solution flies right over my head and will give that a try next time.
Joe
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:38 AM   #81
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I like your idea better ....sometimes a simple solution flies right over my head and will give that a try next time.
Joe
I'm wondering now, on my new used eggcamper, it appears that the prior owner used silicone on the fantastic vent install as well as other locations on the roof. Should I wait until there is a leak or start removing the silicone and replacing it with butyl? How do I determine what is currently on the trailer? Is there some sort of litmus test for silicone to determine if it is indeed silicone or something else? Thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:32 AM   #82
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Should I wait until there is a leak or start removing the silicone and replacing it with butyl? How do I determine what is currently on the trailer? Is there some sort of litmus test for silicone to determine if it is indeed silicone or something else? Thanks
I have a similar situation with my trailer. I have what I thought was silicone around the door and on the roof. The litmus test comes when you spend a few minutes trying to reomove some of the caulk. I started with the door and found it VERY difficult to remove so I know it is silcone caulk that I am dealing with.

I have yet to finish the door let alone the roof. Now I am waiting till next spring. I even purchased some Motsenbockers Liftoff which is a silicone/latex caulk & foam sealant remover (as stated on the label & comes in 4.5 fl. oz. bottles). So far the remover has been of limited but perhaps somewhat helpful in it's described use.
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The bottom line: it takes hours to removel silicone caulk
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:00 PM   #83
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This suggestion may be relevant, even if it doesn't first sound like it. My convertible car had serious squeak problems which I pinned down to the seals between the windows and convertible top. The parts guy at the car dealership recommended a silicone remover which just eliminated those squeaks a year ago, by getting the rubber seals to 'stick' to the windows and not slip/squeak.

Of course I don't know if it removed all the silicone that was there from new but it removed enough to bring friction back. It is a BMW dealer so it was surprising that the remover was 'only' about $6 for a small bottle (quarter-to-half pint). No doubt a more economic and more convenient source exists.

I've never tried the home maintenance 'silicone remover' products but I suspect they may be a more general product that this. I would be interested to know if this BMW product would 'clean up' where silicon sealant has been scraped off, but I don't have any suitable examples to test it on. But it is up there in my personal 'wonder products' list.
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:48 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I'm wondering now, on my new used eggcamper, it appears that the prior owner used silicone on the fantastic vent install as well as other locations on the roof. Should I wait until there is a leak or start removing the silicone and replacing it with butyl?
If it's not leaking i would wait unless your looking for something to do..... Under the fantastic fan is a regular gasket that gets sandwiched in between the fan and the fiberglass roof... The sealant is probably just around the edges to finish it off.... My fantastic fan has globs of caulk around the perimeter and it's not leaking and don't need any extra work right now
How do I determine what is currently on the trailer? Is there some sort of litmus test for silicone to determine if it is indeed silicone or something else? I'm not sure how to tell and could use that answer myselfThanks
Joe
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