C channel for bag awning - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-20-2016, 09:58 PM   #1
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Name: Hugh
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Exclamation C channel for bag awning

We are adding a bag awning to our 2010 scamp. We plan to use VHB tape to attach it. It has little ridges on the bottom. Does the VHB tape go between the ridges? Or should I file off the ridges if I'm going to use it with VHB tape? And the ridges are 7/8 inch apart, but the whole channel is about an inch and a quarter. How wide of VHB should I buy? Thank you for your wisdom!

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Old 04-21-2016, 01:31 AM   #2
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Welcome to FGRV Hugh. There are a number of folks that have used VHB tape for the awning rail and solar panels, I haven't heard of any problems. You can go to 3Ms site and read about how it works and which product # is best for your use. Personally, I wouldn't take the ribs off as it takes a number of hours for the tape to expand and form to both surfaces for it's max grip. IMHO, I would go with something that would fit between the barrel and top edge and thick enough to be taller than them. You may want to file/smooth the barrel edges so everything slides easy.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:21 AM   #3
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If it's a bag awning by Shademaker you may find that water gets in the bag when the awning is rolled in. I've had that problem and know a couple others that have too. Now I slide the awning off when not using it. I put our rail on with rivets.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:49 PM   #4
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I have one of them c channels on my Trillium Trailer which was revetted on before I bought it 8 years ago .
Just a tip :
I have to watch the c channel once in a while after a few years as it tends to spread open and the awning will slip out . I lost my awning , it shot out into the ocean on the confederate bridge going over to PEI a couple years ago . I closed up the channel a bit with 2 vice grips bit by bit down the channel which did the trick before I installed the new awning ( not cheap)
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:05 PM   #5
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Shademaker's directions say to put a screw through each end of the channel and through the awning rib
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:28 PM   #6
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Thanks, I do want to avoid putting screws or rivets into the fiberglass.

This is the awning we bought:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/shade-maker...x?skuId=272680

It is 8 feet wide but our scamp can only accommodate about a 6 1/2 foot rail before it bends down, so we are planning on trimming the awning.

Still not sure about whether to remove the ridges from the aluminum.

After reading a lot of not very clear info, I ended up purchasing this vhb 5952 1.5 inch wide tape on ebay: http://amzn.to/244rmsk

I'm hoping it will work ok without needing to sand down the ridges or use rivets.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:59 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Lake_Mich_Scamp View Post
Still not sure about whether to remove the ridges from the aluminum.
After reading a lot of not very clear info, I ended up purchasing this vhb 5952 1.5 inch wide tape on ebay: Robot Check
I'm hoping it will work ok without needing to sand down the ridges or use rivets.
Hugh, did you go to the 3M site to read up on what VHB tape is used on and the demo videos? So many different tape #'s for certain apps. Everything from truck bodies to the windows in Dubai's sky scrapers. Pretty tough stuff .
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:34 AM   #8
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As an alterative, you might want to source a C channel that has a flat profile like this:
http://www.sailrite.com/Awning-Track-Aluminum-96
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
As an alterative, you might want to source a C channel that has a flat profile like this:
Sailrite
I think you are exactly right! Thanks, I asked my local RV place if they can order that for me instead.
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Lake_Mich_Scamp View Post
I think you are exactly right! Thanks, I asked my local RV place if they can order that for me instead.
Just order it from sailrite. They are a great Mom and Pop owned small business with excellent service.
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Old 05-03-2016, 01:27 PM   #11
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I would, but it is $12 shipping for this $18 part. My local place might charge a buck more but no shipping cost.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:30 PM   #12
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Flat would definitely stick better. The tape you ordered is only 0.045 inches thick; your ridges are probably higher than that. Aluminum has a very high surface energy (HSE) so the tape will stick well. Follow the 3M surface prep directions if you want the tape to stick well to your trailer get coat.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:02 PM   #13
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My parts folks said they could not order one without the ridges. Here is what she said:

"I would just use liquid nails, itís what we do here. Never had one come off."
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:45 PM   #14
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If this was my trailer and I only wanted to use only VHB tape. I would take a strip of steel strip like pallet straping and clamp it in the channel then used a hand held grinder or a course file and sand down the ridges until your flush with the steel strip. Toss the steel strip after you shave down the ridges. The channel was origionally there to keep the putty sealant from squeezing out all over the place. Leaving a little channel left would be a good thing.

This will make the channel lower than the VHB tape thickness. Now prep and attach.
I would not travel with an awning hanging only held in place with VHB tape. What will happen 5 to 10 years down the road when the tape gets old?

I personally drilled the rail and through bolted where the rail bolts are hidden inside interior cabinets. Where fasteners fall in open areas I used pop rivets. I used Butyl tape between the shell and the c channel. There is a good write up on this site for installing a bag awning on a 13 foot trailer. I mostly followed those instructions.

I too have an 8 foot awning on a shorter C channel. Don't trim it. It works just fine with over hanging ends.
I dont travel or store my awning hanging on the trailer I keep it inside the trailer between actual use. It stays clean and after 3 years of use still looks like new.
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