Canopy for storage and camping? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-22-2009, 05:17 PM   #15
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See, this is why it is sometimes worth posting a question even if there is some information to be found by searching. An answer I never in a million years would have found. Thanks.

Definitely worth a try, although having it wait through a Seattle winter for dry weather may test its durability. Do you think this could be found at Home Depot?


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Oh, Amy, speaking of leaks, here is a really good temporary solution I have used. Definitely beats globbing on the caulk when you aren't in a situation to make a proper repair.

3M makes an "All Weather" tape. It's their tape #225. It's silver, and looks a little like duct tape, but it completely different. What it's meant to do is be used outside, and to stand up to reasonably long periods of time in place without either separating (duct tape), or turning to OMG:CONCRETE! (duct tape, blue tape).

Maybe this will tide your Clementine over until you get things sealed up?
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Old 11-22-2009, 05:47 PM   #16
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Has anyone other than me used plumbers putty to seal a window? Plumbers putty is used to make the seal between a sink and the drain plumbing it is designed for a water tight seal for years with water pooling on it all the time. I forms a very tight seal that is water proof. It is very easy to work with, by molding with your hands it softens and can easily be rolled into a thin bead. I always keep a container in the trailer (the smallest size container is about the size of a yogurt, I keep one my toolbox in each camper) and use it to fill gaps or leaks I find in the field. (even once for when I scraped the large trailer at a gas station and pulled the edge seal back a 1/4 inch, it worked great in driving rain, until I had a chance weeks later at home to repair correctly)

For windows I took a small pick and straight edge razor, and scraped out where I could see cracks in the seal and around the whole edge, rolled the putty into a bead and force in to the gap with the razor (like a putty knife), I then did a bead and sealed all the way around and pressed flush with the aluminum trim with the razor. Knowing that the bead is water tight it would certainly buy time until there is time to pull the window and do it right with butyl tape. Like the butyl it does not dry out and harden.

Just a thought that has worked for me, it stopped most of the window leaks in my Burro. The rest were resolved by cleaning the weep holes at the bottom of each window. My guess is these hadn't been cleaned since the trailer was new, and water was backing up in the tracks with no where to go.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:04 PM   #17
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Hi Amy,

The tape really does quite well outdoors, especially with a minimum of UV to get to it (your area).

What I would do, if I were going to use it for a winter, is put it on, then after a month (and on a day conducive to re-taping) tear one piece off (from the sunniest side) to see how things are going. If it seems to be starting to stick (i.e. glue wants to stay on camper), then take it all off and replace with new (you have a whole roll now ). If all seems fine, leave it and test again when it seems right to.

I know it seems weird to consider tape a long term solution, but as long as you have only a half dozen spots or so, and you don't leave it for years, I think it can work well. Far better than glopping on caulk and then having to deal with it later. You can do the odd rivet, too (I have two that are now taped and waiting for a "spa day."

I would just Google the tape. I can't remember where I got mine, but I think through a marine supplier (maybe Jamestown Distributors, or U-line). I got it a while ago for a boat project. I kind of doubt Home Depot would have it. But Googling "3m 225" should get you there. I like the 2"

Raya

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Old 11-22-2009, 09:08 PM   #18
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That 13' Scamp cover looks good, especially the price. In looking over covers for a year or two I have found that I wouldn't want a cover that rubbed on the fiberglass that wasn't soft or something like a flannel inside finish. Can't describe what I'm trying to say, but I don't want just plain old tarp material rubbing on my Scamp. I couldn't find what that material was made of and couldn't see where to email for an answer to my question. In other words, I wouldn't want any coarse tarp material rubbing on the gel coat. If anyone can find what the material is made of I would appreciate knowing. Thanks. Margaret in NW California
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:12 PM   #19
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I agree with you Marg. I come from a hotrodder background and those folks are rabid when it comes to protecting an expensive paint job. The problems with covers that touch is the abrasion. AND the trailer/car needs to be spotless before putting the cover on, especially the flannel ones, as dirt/twigs/acid rain gets embedded in the softness and really can create a scrubbing effect in the slightest wind. I live in a wind blown area November to March. By April I'd have a thoroughly sanded trailer.

YMMV
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:56 PM   #20
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That 13' Scamp cover looks good, especially the price. In looking over covers for a year or two I have found that I wouldn't want a cover that rubbed on the fiberglass that wasn't soft or something like a flannel inside finish. Can't describe what I'm trying to say, but I don't want just plain old tarp material rubbing on my Scamp. I couldn't find what that material was made of and couldn't see where to email for an answer to my question. In other words, I wouldn't want any coarse tarp material rubbing on the gel coat. If anyone can find what the material is made of I would appreciate knowing. Thanks. Margaret in NW California
I found the email for the eBay seller and have sent an email with questions about size (its listed as a Scamp cover and I own a Burro, I suspect that they are close enough in size), I also asked if it was suited for snow environments, and the material used, including the side facing the trailer. I will share the details when I get a response.

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Old 11-22-2009, 11:09 PM   #21
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Amy Probably to expensive, and maybe to big, but an outfitters wall tent would do all you want and then some. No problem with snow, rain etc. and I would think plenty of room. I am not to sure about adequate height but I bet this issue could be resolved with some customization. Such a rig could also be a long term solution to storage. They come in a variety of sizes up to and including 12 x 16 feet. You can look at some pictures at Sheridan Canvas Tents & Custom Bags. I'm sure that a number of sporting good stores in your area carry them. Just a caveat in some cases the indicated price for these units does not include the frames which can add up to mayb $200.00. Lee
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:59 PM   #22
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I have not received a response from the ebay seller re: the cover. However, I found the same one for sale on the Casita Travel Trailer Forum, and that listing had the following for text.

Great dust cover and uv protection. Please realize a 17' SD is 13.6 ft long. This is for a camper that is 4 ft shorter. Probably lasts less than 2 yrs in the sun.

From the manu - This Elite Guard Camper Cover fits Campers up to 9'6" long. It is an economy camper cover made from a non-abrasive, spun-bond material that is thicker and stronger than other economy covers. The material is water repellent, breathable and UV treated for light outdoor use. It is completely breathable and treated for U.V. protection against the harmful effects of the sun and heat. There are strap and buckle attachments to help prevent billowing. The cover also has reinforced, elasticized corners with straps and buckles. A front and rear cinching system is also in place to help with loose fabric. Each cover comes with a FREE Storage Bag and a 1 YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY! The cover dimensions are 9'6"L x 7'W x 6'H. Suggested Retail Price: $89.99

I am guessing that the harsh New England winters do not qualify as "light outdoor use".

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Old 11-24-2009, 05:20 PM   #23
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Hi, I thought I would throw in my two cents about winter storage. Here, we do not use the trailer in the winter, so it stays in storage from November till the snow goes in March/April. We keep it in our garage the rest of the year, when the van (TV) can be kept outside.

For the past two winters in northern Alberta, we have stored our Boler in our back yard under a lightweight 10 by 10 foot square "screen house" that we bought for about 50 bucks at a discount house. It is a gazebo with screens on all four sides. My wife is not crazy about the look in the yard, but it saves us about $400 in storage charges over a winter. It has metal poles that support the roof at the sides and from eight edge locations joining at the centre. We get significant cold (-40 degrees) and some snow (a few feet). Last year I brushed the snow off the roof once, but otherwise not a problem. I found that the roof poles at the edges were within an inch of the edges of the trailer, although the centre was plenty high enough, so I raised the house up off the ground with small pieces of 4 by 4 wood and staked it down securely like a tent with no floor. We had some winter storms but the house did not blow away or become deformed, and worked perfectly at keeping the trailer dry and free from snow. Our location is fairly windy, which helped to keep the snow off the sloped roof. Air circulation was great, so I did not have to worry about condensation as I would with a tight fitting cover.

This particular house has two movable side panels that I put on the windy sides, and two zippered entrance doors, one of which obviously went near the trailer door. As a bonus, it allowed me a dry area beside the trailer for entry when the ground outside was covered with snow. Our yard is quite sunny, but the tires were always in the shade because of the screens or panels, so UV was taken care of. Our hitch stuck out the front, and I covered it with a tarp. All in all, it worked out great, and I will get another one in a couple of years when this one gives up. We also use the screen house in the summer for its intended purpose at home, but not camping as it is too bulky to carry around.

Rick G in Edmonton

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