Sorry folks, but I can't post that list of alarms I originally promised, as much as I'd like to. Being in the industry, I have to be really careful about what I say regarding any particular brand or model. OTOH, I don't mind giving some generic brand-agnostic advice.
As I said before, only buy a unit which has been certified by CSA or listed by UL, ULC or ETL for RV use
. Those of you across the big pond to the east would make sure the unit caries the CE mark (I don't think you can find ones without the mark any more) which has been certified for LAV or caravan use
. The reason for this is the RV-specific models are subjected to a number of tests over and above the ones for home use due to the vibration and temperature extremes they can see in RVs and trailers. Also, mind the temperature ratings of units you buy and make sure your own usage will be inside of that range.
I know testing alarms is punishingly painful in a small trailer, but it still needs to be done before every trip. Use earplugs if you have to. Even with the RV rating, your alarm gets pretty hard use. Push that test button. Do it.
Just because you have CO and gas alarms doesn't mean you're going to be safe using your stove or oven or an unvented heater to keep yourself warm. What can happen in a confined space while burning gas is the flame will start out all nice and blue and produce almost no CO. Even if you have a vent cracked, the oxygen
level in your camper could decrease as the combustion consumes oxygen
and that nice blue gas flame will start to yellow-tip, which means it's producing CO. Since CO poisoning is cumulative, spending several hours in that environment can make you ill. If you go to sleep with that burner on and your alarm fails for whatever reason, you might wake up dead. People who heat their campers this way are potential candidates for The Darwin Award. The Darwin Awards
While I can't name brands and list models, I will say that I found a couple of RV-specific combination LP gas /CO alarms in the market with a simple Google search. Small glass eggs are cramped enough as it is, so having one less thing to hang on the wall is a good thing, and that's what I'll equip mine with. I'll install a separate smoke alarm higher up. I also tossed the original 1981 fire extinguisher. It was still holding pressure, but why take a chance on an old unit that could lose its charge? These things are cheap insurance. Again, as with the alarms, look for the UL or ETL mark and make sure it's listed for auto/truck/RV use.
One final word on gas alarms: My sister had an LP gas leak occur in her weekend cabin a couple of years ago and almost died from it. Luckily, there was no fire or explosion, but the gas crowded the air out of the room she was sleeping in and started to suffocate her. (The gas isn't poisonous, it's an asphyxiant. http://www.npga.org/files/public/Tec...PGA_210-96.pdf
) She felt ill from that for a few months. Mobile LP gas tubing and connections get beat up by road vibration and temperature extremes, just like any other component of your trailer. The chances of a leak in a proper installation are small, but lots of our trailers are elderly and may have been worked on by people with limited skills. Again, why take a chance?