Carbon monoxide detectors

[RockyMTns]

We will be picking up our new egg in May and I want to add a CO detector. I realize from the forums that many of you do not have CO detectors or you disconnect them due to false alarms. Nonetheless, I am a believer in them and plan to install one. (Too many real-life tragedies every year to ignore.)

My question then, for those who use CO detectors, is whether I should buy a "plug in" type (120V AC) which has a battery backup (12V DC), or just a "pure" battery-powered model. Obviously, even if using shore power at RV parks, the detector will be on battery power 99% of the time. Any advice from those who use them?

[Daniel A.]

Mine takes two 9 volt batteries I see no need to take up a plug space.
Remember Carbon monoxide detectors need to be replaced every five years. Smoke detectors every ten years.

[Donna D.]

I like Daniel's solution... YMMV

[RockyMTns]

Thanks for the advice.

[Darwin Maring]

A Battery operated unit that has a readout. Check the wholesale clubs for the best prices.

[john warren]

battery operated, so when you get sick of it beeping and throw it out the window, the cord doesn't make it bungie right back at you.
just kidding.
but i would go battery, they last a long time, and why used even a little of your power plugs .

[Cathy P.]

Battery operated. The only false alarm we ever had was when, God rest her soul, Duchess had "gas" and was laying against it - seriously, the poor dog was horrified by it and found a more friendly spot after about the 3rd time. It took us awhile to figure this out but we were on target, as was she!

[Darwin Maring]

I purchased the Kidde Digital Display model kn-copp-b at Sams Club for less than $20.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Cathy P.

Battery operated. The only false alarm we ever had was when, God rest her soul, Duchess had "gas" and was laying against it - seriously, the poor dog was horrified by it and found a more friendly spot after about the 3rd time. It took us awhile to figure this out but we were on target, as was she!

Poor dog! agree with the battery operated being the better choose as most come with instructions as to how high or low they are to be mounted and there is rarely a plug anywhere near the ideal location for mounting. Also makes for one less thing pulling power from your battery if your Boon docking.

[RockyMTns]

Okay, so the consensus is battery-powered. Also sounds like I should consider mounting it to our dog's collar... or perhaps her tail!

[Rick G]

Originally Posted by Craig in MT

Okay, so the consensus is battery-powered. Also sounds like I should consider mounting it to our dog's collar... or perhaps her tail!

I also have mine hooked up to the trailer battery, but I have an off/on toggle switch for the power to it. That way it does not use battery power in the day time when we are not using it, but does work at night when we have the furnace on and want it. It is only 0.2 amps, but every bit helps. I find it reassuring to hear the series of beeps as it charges up after it gets the power turned on.

Rick G.

[Pam Garlow]

Is a CO2 detector needed if someone only heats with electric cube heater? My trailer is most definitely NOT airtight, and I always sleep with the vent cracked too.

[Daniel A.]

Even cooking with propane the trailer should have a detector.

[Joe Z]

Don't forget an LP sniffer down near the floor to detect for any gas leaks..... Mines hardwired into the 12 volt battery with an on/off switch

[Rick G]

Originally Posted by Pam Garlow

Is a CO2 detector needed if someone only heats with electric cube heater? My trailer is most definitely NOT airtight, and I always sleep with the vent cracked too.

No, CO (carbon monoxide) is only produced as a byproduct of combustion. In other words, if you don't have any combustion (propane furnace, stove), there should not be a problem. Your furnace is vented to the outside and should not create any interaction with your room air. However, the CO detector is there in case there is a leak and the combustion byproducts somehow leak into the trailer. Your stove uses room air and definitely creates CO. It is not safe to be used as a heater. An electric heater does not create CO.

A propane fridge could theoretically leak combustion byproducts into the trailer. That is why the burner is on the outside of the trailer and the access to the inside is sealed off. However, even if there was a leak, there is so much fresh air venting in the back of the fridge that I doubt it would be a problem.

CO2 is carbon dioxide, a natural byproduct of breathing and not normally something to worry about. It is a trace gas in the atmosphere and plants need it to survive. However, it is theoretically possible in an airtight room for several people breathing to use up all the oxygen over a period of time. That is why I always have a window vent cracked in the trailer overnight even if I am not using the furnace. The possibility of using up all the room air in one of these trailers is remote, since they are not air tight by any stretch of the imagination, but I do it anyway.

Hope that helps.
Rick G

[Panoz77]

I bought a pure battery powered one for ours.

[john warren]

i don't worry about it. take a grand kid with you. they are in and out so often you have a total air change taking place several times per hour.