Carpet on the wall ? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2012, 02:25 PM   #15
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I always thought that Scamp had its own Breeding Farm operation up there to make sure they have a consistent Long Hair Rat Supply in both colors they need? I am also fairly certain they are "Free Range" but I am not clear about why this matters?

The hole Church/Town/Scamp collaboration story just stinks of a conspiracy somehow and now I am not sure I want anything to do with it!
I am grateful the Liberal Media has not gotten wind of this right now for obvious reasons too!

I would hate for this to be sold off and outsourced putting a lot of Rats out of work just before the Holidays.

I guess if I had to decide though I would prefer with a Camo in some woodland color although I did really like the brown I had in my Scamp too.

Also I was always cozy inside my Scamp to about 0 degrees with a small heater going and about the same in the Casita which has arguably less insulation in it.

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Old 09-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #16
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@ Carol- I agree its not the best insulator. I plan to spray in a foam first. We want to go in the snow with it so isolation is a big deal. However rat fur just feels cozy too.
You might want to check the insulation rating of the spray foam before installing. The foil-mylar bubbles-foil that Scamp uses has an R-15 rating.


We've camped in 5 weather with our Scamp which has the mylar bubble/foil insulation and rat fur.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:28 PM   #17
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I'd use the foam insulation. When you read the detailed information and specifications on the reflectix site, you see the need for an air gap on at least one side of the product for it to work as reflective insulation. When one side is glued to the fiberglass wall and the other side has rat fur or vinyl glued to it, then the reflective property of the product does not work and all you have left is the insulative property of the air trapped in the bubbles ie. R- 1.1 or so.

As the manufacturer says on their site (About Reflective Technology | What About R-values? ):

What if There is No Air Space Present on Either Side of the Product?
No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)


I'd agree with a higher R-value when used as the manufacturer suggests (ie. when left uncovered by rat fur/vinyl, etc. as in the back of cupboards and cabinets), but when covered up, it is basically just bubble wrap.

With foam you get a bit better R-value ie 5-7 per inch, so with a 1/2" foam you get R2.5-3.5, and the product is firmer, particlarly around cut-lines.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:33 PM   #18
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I have had the interior of my Lil Bigfoot covered in Scamp ratfur.

Scamp gave me the name of their supplier.
I called them and they wouldn't sell to me direct.
I ended up buying it from Scamp as I cound not find any on the West coast.

The big problem is you're going to pay allmost as much in shipping as you will for the ratfur.

You won't be sorry. Ratfur is probably one of the most durable, trouble free wall coverings available.

John
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:53 PM   #19
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I'd use the foam insulation. When you read the detailed information and specifications on the reflectix site, you see the need for an air gap on at least one side of the product for it to work as reflective insulation. When one side is glued to the fiberglass wall and the other side has rat fur or vinyl glued to it, then the reflective property of the product does not work and all you have left is the insulative property of the air trapped in the bubbles ie. R- 1.1 or so.

As the manufacturer says on their site (About Reflective Technology | What About R-values? ):

What if There is No Air Space Present on Either Side of the Product?
No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)


I'd agree with a higher R-value when used as the manufacturer suggests (ie. when left uncovered by rat fur/vinyl, etc. as in the back of cupboards and cabinets), but when covered up, it is basically just bubble wrap.

With foam you get a bit better R-value ie 5-7 per inch, so with a 1/2" foam you get R2.5-3.5, and the product is firmer, particlarly around cut-lines.

The material Scamp uses in NOT Refletix, For one thing is has two layers of bubbles between the foil. The one thing I'm missing from my thermodynamics knowledge is the maximum size of air pocket to get an effective insulation. I know that an air mattress is no insulation, and closed cell blue foam pads are super insulators. Where the bubble size and the effect of double bubble are concerned, I'm not sure of. I do know that the wall on inside did NOT feel cold to the touch when the outside temperature was 5 F. The windows did feel cold and inside the area where the power cord comes in was colder than the trailer. The floor was cooler than the walls. My feeling that most of cold that came in, came through the window and floor. We were able to keep the inside between 65 F and 68 F without the furnace running all the time. From my memory during the day I think the furnace probably ran about 30% of the time.
I do agree on one point, I don't think it's a full R-15.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:36 PM   #20
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The material Scamp uses in NOT Refletix,.
Byron, do you know what brand it is? When I spoke with Scamp, they inferred it was reflectix, so I'm interested in who actually does manufacture it indeed.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:48 PM   #21
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Try searching marine carpet or marine fabric. Raz
You can also search for marine 'hulliner' - pulls up a few more options.

I was able to find a local guy who could get me marine hulliner/headliner for cheaper than online stores and without shipping. Probably 15 colors. (they were out of the hot pink! luckily, my next choice - light gray - was in stock ) Had it in 2 days. Was dramatically cheaper than scamp - mostly because of avoiding shipping costs. It's just a little bit less fuzzy than the rat fur, which was fine by me, so it was a win-win for what I was wanting.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:40 PM   #22
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Byron, do you know what brand it is? When I spoke with Scamp, they inferred it was reflectix, so I'm interested in who actually does manufacture it indeed.
My information is 3rd hand so it might not be accurate. At one time it was advertised as "feflectix like", what ever that means. I assumed that it was NOT relfectix at the time. That's been almost 7 years ago.

FOUND IT... On Scamp's web site, they called Foil Ray Insulation
In another place they refer to it as Astro Foil insulation
Astro Foil does have a web site.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:53 AM   #23
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Regardless of the brand, these products are a thin aluminum foil/coating over a mylar/plastic bubble material. Reflectix makes both single and double bubble material - the R-1.1 I quoted was for the double bubble material ie two layers of bubble wrap with an aluminum coating on either side of the sandwich.

Reflective insulation needs the shiny aluminum to be directly exposed to an air gap for to work as an heat barrier. This creates an insulating effect (ie. it reflects heat back) that is translated into an equivalent R-value for comparison to conventional insulating materials. Reflectix, AstroFoil, etc has an additional insulating effect that comes from the trapped air in the bubbles which works as conventional insulation and gives the R-1.1 (per Reflectix)

If you dig into the tech literature (more and better info on the Reflextix site than the AstroFoil site), you will see that the R-15 or so is the maximum the product can generate in ideal conditions (ie. air gaps), in a certain orientation ie. where the heat flow is down. The product is substantially less effective against horizontal and upwards heat flow. Again, with no air gap directly against the foil surface, you get nothing but the R1.1 from the trapped air bubbles.

Ok, so why do folks have a hard time with this? I guess it is because (like Byron noted above) the walls feel substantially warmer with the Reflectix/rat fur applied. That's because the resin in the fiberglass trailer shell is a great conductor of heat and a bad insulator. Just about anything (ie. R-1.1) will radically improve the situation. Plus, even a very little insulation really helps reduce the condensation on the walls.

The other thing going on here is that molded fiberglass trailers have very few air gaps, so with windows closed the unit is virtually airtight and a small heater is able to keep the unit warm with only a little insulation to break the thermal conductivity of the shell itself.

Byron: I have seen information in regards the size of the air cavity required to provide the maximum insulating effect and am trying to recall where I saw it. I seem to remember that the issue with larger cavities was that they allowed air within the cavity to circulate more easily which defeated part of the insulating effect of the air itself. I think that is part of why fiberglass bats work. The wall cavity with the fiberglass bat is full of air, but the material stops the air circulating ie. stops the wall cavity acting like the air mattress you described.

I don't want to sound too negative about Reflecix/AstroFoil here. I do think it works, but nowhere near as good as the quoted R-values - simply because it is covered. The product would work much, much better if left uncovered. With conventional foam insulation, covering it makes no real difference to the quoted R-values.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:56 AM   #24
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Hi all, just got a 1989 Lil Bigfoot and got long list of upgrades and one of the thing I can't find is where to get that ''rat fur'' like in Scamp carpet for walls/ ceiling. Any good suppliers in US? Thanks.
Plan is to replace all inside with new appliances, trim and build new custom mahogany furnitures with high end woodwork all around, hardwood floor, change bunk beds to 2/3 couch and add a new closet, change back window to smoked, new bigger fridge in the closet on door side, change stove to range oven stove combo. Drawers, more drawers, foldable counter extension table, Exterior hot shower. Already got Fridge, oven, cushions on order, full LED light systems with sensor lights in cabinets and a HD projector shooting from dinette on front see through screen and of course fantastic vent with remote. Did I miss something? Yeah got the solar for it too. Man cave should be ready by April. Stay thirsty my friends...
-Slawek.
We are nearly finished with the remodel of our Casita. We removed the carpet from the walls, gutted it, and rebuilt everything. We found the best fabric for the interior is a tweed type upholster fabric that is used in cars. After we removed all of the old fabric, mold, and glue, we lined the inside with 1/2 expanded polyethylene foam. This was glued on e walls first, then we sprayed the foam with contact cement and installed the fabric. The edges are clean and sharp.

We also added led lighting, new custom cabinets, and a custom sink for the bathroom. ( made from an 8 quart stainless steel bowl and an extra large cutting board. This gives us "counter space" in the bathroom.


I hope to have photos posted next week of the complete remodel.
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:04 AM   #25
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Good info guys. Cant wait to start my projects. Jodi could you share a link where did you find tweed fabric. Thanks. Also how much material did you use for the walls.
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:28 AM   #26
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Our Casita is a 16" ( actual interior is 13"). We used two fabrics, just for contrast. ( but if we did it again, we would use all the same fabric). We used 4 yards of 60" fabric for the ceiling and 7 yards of 60" fabric for the walls. We found similar fabrics at a local place called UFO, but actually purchased this at a shop that re-upholsters classic cars. Talking to the owner of this shop was the key in learning how to apply the fabric. We found the foam at a packing and shipping company that makes custom packaging for business. ( not a fed-ex or ups store, but a commercial packaging place). We checked the local yellow pages and called around to get an idea of what would provide the most insulation without adding bulk. The owner of this place said the foam is often used in boats. Most of the materials we have used are not RV products, so the options are unlimited when you think outside of the "egg".
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:03 AM   #27
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Just make certain if you use any foam or foam-like material that it's closed cell! You don't want open cell, or you'll turn your trailer into a sponge.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:38 PM   #28
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Just make certain if you use any foam or foam-like material that it's closed cell! You don't want open cell, or you'll turn your trailer into a sponge.
I would tend to agree with you Donna, but on the Escape trailer forum, Reace stated that Escape uses an open cell foam. Like you, I would use a closed cell foam [Edit: ,but Escape seems to get along fine with open cell foam.]
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