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Old 05-03-2013, 02:53 AM   #1
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Name: C. Elaine
Trailer: Casita 2001 spirit
California
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Casita Range Hood voltage ? & Cap sizes

I picked up my 16' SD 2001 Casita from Hemet where the doors & drawer were added (also worked my tail off for 4 days doing repairs-loved it) & then delivered it to my electrician who is going to wire up the convertor (my unit has been stripped, so I'm building backwards).
He asked if the the rangehood fan & light were 12v. I have no clue.
The light bulb base is a standard screw in type.
A lot of the plastic caps are gone from the rivets so I will be using SS screws for replacement, does the clear base come with the cap as in a "set" and what size will I need. I think someone posted a cap & plug mfg. where I could buy these in bulk.
We are gone for weekend but hopefully I'll have wifi. I really enjoy this forum. You guys are awesome, Thanks in advance.
E
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:25 AM   #2
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On my Casitas the Hood fan and light were both 12vdc and the light was not a standard screw in or Edison base.
Mine used a slide in bulb and when I removed the hood all that was under it was a 12vdc feed wire.

I am not saying that yours is the same but this is what mine has.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partslady9 View Post
A lot of the plastic caps are gone from the rivets so I will be using SS screws for replacement,
E
I'm a bit confused- you're replacing the (cosmetic) caps with screws? Or is it your intention to remove and replace the exposed (but sound) rivets with stainless screws?

If so, I hope you mean stainless steel nuts-'n-bolts, as a threaded "screw" won't hold for long. Fiberglass as thin as the surfaces involved here doesn't provide a good threadgripping surface.

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #4
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My old range hood was 12v with a screw in household looking socket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I'm a bit confused- you're replacing the (cosmetic) caps with screws? Or is it your intention to remove and replace the exposed (but sound) rivets with stainless screws?

If so, I hope you mean stainless steel nuts-'n-bolts, as a threaded "screw" won't hold for long. Fiberglass as thin as the surfaces involved here doesn't provide a good threadgripping surface.

Francesca
You can't use bolts with those caps. Machine screws will work fine with them, but that leads to the ugly screw vs. rivet debate.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post



You can't use bolts with those caps. Machine screws will work fine with them, but that leads to the ugly screw vs. rivet debate.
Machine screws alone won't hold for long in a fiberglass wall, which is why I asked if she meant bolts/nuts.

Per the caps:

I doubt they'll fit anything but the rivets they're designed for.

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Machine screws alone won't hold for long in a fiberglass wall, which is why I asked if she meant bolts/nuts.

Per the caps:

I doubt they'll fit anything but the rivets they're designed for.

Francesca
I made the assumption nobody would try and tap machine threads into fiberglass, and they would use nuts. I would hope that wouldn't have to be mentioned.

As for the other part, I beg to differ. Here's a button head machine screw in a cap that's much smaller than the standard scamp ones.

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Old 05-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #7
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I think we've just got a semantics problem- I've always thought that the difference between a screw and a bolt is that the screw uses no nut.

As for caps on a bolt/screw:

How does one get that cap on once the bolt/screw has been tightened sufficiently to make it hold, and waterproof???

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I think we've just got a semantics problem- I've always thought that the difference between a screw and a bolt is that the screw uses no nut.

As for caps on a bolt/screw:

How does one get that cap on once the bolt/screw has been tightened sufficiently to make it hold, and waterproof???

Francesca
It's not really semantics, there's a big difference.

Hex bolt/hex cap screw:



Machine screw (usually anything under 1/4" thread):



The covers are two piece, a "washer" that goes on under the screw/rivet, and a cap that snaps over the washer once the fastener is installed.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:48 PM   #9
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Thanks for the explanation, Jared- that explains why/how the caps are themselves replaceable without removing the rivet!

So my question for the O.P. is: why replace the rivets if they're still soundly attached?

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:00 PM   #10
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I'm assuming the washer part of the cap is also broken, which means the rivet has to come out to replace it. Why they're using screws, I can't say.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:23 AM   #11
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Okay, let me explain in more detail. The rivets that hold my overhead cabinet to the roof over the rear dinette are missing the clear base & the white snap on cap. They appear to have no sealant, just the exposed rivet. Since this unit has been rolled over I felt I should replace the rivets since I am going to be repairing a crack at the roof corner (not too bad) and a crack in the overhead cabinet corner. Rivets intimidate me. I was going to use the pan head machine screws w/clear plastic base under the head, white cap after installing & acorn nut on the inside. Also using sealant when installing. Am I on the right track here? E
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:46 AM   #12
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Some have had trouble with screws cracking fiberglass and feel rivets act like a fusible link, preventing damage to the fiberglass. I haven't used screws, so I have no experience with it.

As for the rest of it, you have it right. Don't use silicone, get a real caulk.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:46 AM   #13
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I, too, used to suffer from rivetophobia, but have since undergone the cure...

They're very strong and extraordinarily simple to work with, especially on "blind" surfaces. No more having someone hold the nut on the other side while I operate the wrench/screwdriver on the business end of a bolt. My Trillium's cabinets are bonded to the trailer shell without rivets etc., but I've used plenty of rivets on it in the course of my many modifications!

Here's a blind riveting basics tutorial, if you're interested...

Francesca
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:06 AM   #14
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Name: C. Elaine
Trailer: Casita 2001 spirit
California
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Thanks so much for the link on Rivets - I'm sure it will help my phobia! I'm so excited the electrician called tonight & Eggbert is basically done. Even the stove and the furnace with new thermostat worked. All the lights work, there is a new GFI circuit for the kitchen & outside recp. The A/C works. I just need to figure out the bulb for rangehood. Also installed new fantastic fan. Now comes the real work, scrubbing down the outside. At least the trailer will be in my driveway at home for the next month. Thanks so much for this forum & all the help!
Elaine
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