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05-23-2012, 03:01 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: James
Trailer: 86' Casita 13'
Colorado
Posts: 12
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Casita roof vent and windows
The previous owner of my Casita caulked the roof vent comletely shut. I'm about to launch into this restoration project and wanted to ask what folks thought about whether or not I should go to the trouble of removing the caulking and replacing the roof vent. I have never owned a camper, so I'm not sure how much this will get used.
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05-23-2012, 08:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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If it were me, and it's not... I'd fix it properly. At night, when all the curtains/blinds are closed... it's nice having fresh air and the vent makes that the logical place to get it. You may be able to clean it up enough so it will seal properly, etc. and you won't need to buy a new one. Try it.. you'll like it!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-23-2012, 10:31 PM
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#3
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Commercial Member
Trailer: We have had all the brands at least once.
Posts: 801
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Do what Donna suggest. If was my trailer I would clean all the silcone off and remove the vent clean it up or buy a new one. Install it with Butyl tape,new screws, then use Di-core self leveling sealer, it comes in a caulking tube.
Chuck
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05-24-2012, 04:27 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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You won't really be able to decide until you clear the surface of the blobbed on caulk?
I would guess there was some leak which is why the blobs were put on there but I have seen some stupid things done for no apparent reason too!
Either way I agree completely that the roof vent is the most important opening maybe aside from the door.
Once it is cleaned and clear,replacing it is not too big a task and you will be glad you did it right if you ever have dripping on your head from a bad one.
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05-24-2012, 11:08 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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I also would take it right off clean it up or replace it with a new one - if its a standard vent and you do not already have a power vent & plan to cook in the trailer or boon dock in warm areas, I would seriously consider replacing it with a 12V Fantastic Fan - having something to move the air also helps with condensation issues as well. I suspect anyone that has a Fantastic Fan will tell you its one of the best mods/investments they have made.
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02-02-2013, 11:44 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Tinc
Trailer: In the market
Washington
Posts: 28
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Speaking of roof-work, how much weight can the Casita take up there? I'm going to need to install a cover on the Fantastic Fan Vent.
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02-03-2013, 03:23 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Vents are cheap, rip it off and put a new one on with some butyl tape.
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02-03-2013, 09:58 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Tinc
Trailer: In the market
Washington
Posts: 28
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Roof Work
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
Vents are cheap, rip it off and put a new one on with some butyl tape.
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Thanks Jared, But my main concern is plopping my 280 pound mass up there to do work.
How much is too much?
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02-03-2013, 10:17 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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I'd say 280 lbs is too much. I've read where Casita has a lightweight gal that does their roof work.
Even putting plywood on top which spreads the load, I wouldn't want to put MY weight up there and I'm half your size.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-03-2013, 10:24 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita
Posts: 145
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215# here. I installed the Maxxair II without a problem. No buckling or flexing at all. Easy installation.
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02-03-2013, 10:32 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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If you have more than one vent in the roof (I have a large escape hatch in the Scamp) close together - you could temp remove its cover etc to allow you to pop up through it to reach the other to work on it.
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02-03-2013, 12:45 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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You don't really need to get on the roof to install a cover on the vent?
I have installed a few of them and always from a ladder on the side. You may need to move the ladder a few times to duplicate steps on both sides but I have never needed to get on the roof.
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02-03-2013, 12:46 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris
You don't really need to get on the roof to install a cover on the vent?
I have installed a few of them and always from a ladder on the side. You may need to move the ladder a few times to duplicate steps on both sides but I have never needed to get on the roof.
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Same here.
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02-03-2013, 02:57 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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I have a couple of adjustable overhead panel supports like these, and use them inside with a board between them if I have to get atop a trailer roof.
A few right-size 2x4's wedged under boards works, too.
Francesca
__________________
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02-04-2013, 06:33 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: Maynard and Jacquie
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris
You don't really need to get on the roof to install a cover on the vent?
I have installed a few of them and always from a ladder on the side. You may need to move the ladder a few times to duplicate steps on both sides but I have never needed to get on the roof.
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What he said!
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02-04-2013, 06:55 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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Attach lengths of foam pipe insulation to the ladder rails to protect the trailer.
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02-04-2013, 07:20 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Name: Tinc
Trailer: In the market
Washington
Posts: 28
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Egg Protection
Good tip Glenn!
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