Change 15A breaker to 20A? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-05-2012, 12:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
This will, as has been mentioned, require installing larger wires to not create a fire hazard. For 20 Amp breakers, the wires should be minimum 12 ga.
Look at the wire insulation between the breaker box and the 110 volt AC outlet. Is there printing on it? If there is, it should include the wire gauge (size). I am assuming from most of the comments that many trailers can be wired with 14 gauge wire or even 16 gauge.

My Fiber Stream uses regular house-type Romex (3 individual solid wires {Black, White, and Bare} encased within a white outer sheath) for the 110 volt AC circuits, and individual stranded wires {Red & White} for the 12 volt DC circuits.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #16
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the double breaker is mostly for when you need one more circut and are out of space in your box. you still have to run a wire for it to operate.
but generaly speaking no matter how right we are,,,,ask a licensed electrition if you can. saves on funny looking hair do's from making an error with juice.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john warren View Post
the double breaker is mostly for when you need one more circut and are out of space in your box. you still have to run a wire for it to operate.
but generaly speaking no matter how right we are,,,,ask a licensed electrition if you can. saves on funny looking hair do's from making an error with juice.
My Scamp's box only has space for one breaker, and for sure I'll talk to an electrician before I do ANYTHING. My hair is funny enough looking, I don't want to make that problem worse!
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:46 PM   #18
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Additional amps the easy way!

Just a thought (try to get around the mountain rather than going over the top kind of thinking here...).
I have a "new to me" 13' Burro with a 15amp box. I ran an additional 110 AC cord into the trailer (most campsites have 2 hookups for electrical) & tied it to an outlet on the right side of the Kitchen area (the original 110 AC outlet with the breaker is on the Left side of the Kitchen area). This way, I get the 15 amps dedicated on the Left & an extra 15 amps on the right side.
The port hole (under the sink area) for the electrical cables is more than generous enough to accommodate both cables going to the outside.
Did a "maiden" camp out in the garage this past weekend & ran a space heater off of the 15amp & a coffee maker & iPod charger off of the other new line -- nothing tripped off.
As an additional option, you can also put in a 12 Volt DC outlet (tied in from your from your marine battery) that could run small stuff too.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:42 PM   #19
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I redid the 110 input power wiring and added a GFCI outlet directly connected to it.

I now have 110 outlets on both sides of the kitchen.

The original 15amp input breaker still protects all the 12 volt wiring.

From what I have been reading I will update the original input breaker to make sure it is working correctly. That is a really good idea! I hadn't thought about it degrading over time and usage.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #20
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You not only need correct wires downstream from the breaker, but upstream as well.

There may be 'ghost' loads on that breaker. Maybe your battery charger or some other thing, refrigerator? is wired into that circuit also. Anything else would decrease the load you could place in the outlet served by the breaker. Even your idea light bulb.



Actually, it would be a good idea to have a licensed electrician check your entire rig out. I have worked on houses that POs have done some creative and dangerous things to.

Fred, I am surprised that you have solid wire on your rig. Solid is good for houses but trailers should have stranded. Solid wire is not very accepting of movement. Just like taking a wire and repeatedly bending it in order to break it. A trailer is like a house with a continuous earthquake! I had fire shooting out my furnace once. It turns out the vibration caused by the 60Hz current eventually caused the connection to loosen and cause the sparking.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
I redid the 110 input power wiring and added a GFCI outlet directly connected to it.

I now have 110 outlets on both sides of the kitchen.

The original 15amp input breaker still protects all the 12 volt wiring.

From what I have been reading I will update the original input breaker to make sure it is working correctly. That is a really good idea! I hadn't thought about it degrading over time and usage.
All circuit breakers have electrical and mechanical functions . If you read the operation manual for a circuit breaker you will see that the breakers are supposed to be exercised on a regular basis. Just like the joints in your body if you don't move them they get stiff, so too with circuit breakers . Breakers in trailers are subject to moisture and varying temps causing the mechanical portions to corrode and when they are called on to trip they are stiff and don't want to move. By switching the breakers on and off ( NOT UNDER LOAD) several times a year you can avoid this problem . Larger breakers can be tested for proper time and current trip operation. but the smaller ones are too inexpensive to warrant this test ., it is cheaper to replace them
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:24 AM   #22
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More on Circuit Breakers

NO you can't just add a duplex breaker to have two 15 amp circuits. The shore plug and cord are usually only rated for 15 amps total. If you upgrade to a heavier 30 amp plug and cable you "may" be able to run two 15 amp circuits, but have a professinal electrician check out the box and wiring for capacity first.
When used, Duplex breakers are almost always smaller than the main breaker and are intended to protect individual branch circuits. There is even a special duplex breaker made that has both a 20 amp (main) breaker and a 15 amp (branch load) breaker in the same package.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
NO you can't just add a duplex breaker to have two 15 amp circuits. The shore plug and cord are usually only rated for 15 amps total. If you upgrade to a heavier 30 amp plug and cable you "may" be able to run two 15 amp circuits, but have a professinal electrician check out the box and wiring for capacity first.
When used, Duplex breakers are almost always smaller than the main breaker and are intended to protect individual branch circuits. There is even a special duplex breaker made that has both a 20 amp (main) breaker and a 15 amp (branch load) breaker in the same package.
Be aware that not all branch circuit breakers are UL listed to be back fed and may be illegal when used as a Main Breaker. (When you connect the incoming power to the output terminal screws on the breaker you are back feeding the breaker Breakers rated for back feeding have an additional piece supplied to mechanically secure the breaker to the panel so if the breaker is subjected to fault level currents it will stay in place and not pose an additional hazard
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:22 AM   #24
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The best solution would be to upgrade the service to 30amp as Bob suggests which takes care of the breakers blowing when running microwaves and AC at the same time. Our 13 Scamp had everything in place to do it and just needed an electrician to complete the critical stuff. Always best to have an electrician check it out if you aren't knowledgable in electrical work as it can have serious consequences.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:27 AM   #25
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Good points all!

I have a 30 amp plug as well as a 15 amp along with 10 gage wiring, but my experience from sailing is that there is often very little current available where you can plug-in.

I will change my connection to the new GCFI outlets to a separate plug and change connections or plug-in twice when I want to cook using my coffee maker or George Forman grill.

That is safer!

Thank you.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #26
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I think you will find that the parks electrical box hookup are only 15 amp or for larger RV a 30 amp. So this box will usually trip first anyway. I carry a conversion 30 amp RV plug (if availible) and aslo be sure to not run the heater and toaster at the same time. This usually save the breakers from tripping when on a later than 15 amp load.
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:10 PM   #27
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I have a large panel in my trillium, the whole panel is fed with a 15 amp breaker and cord set, from this I have several breakers, to give me the feasibility to isolate what I want.
I typically run my converter and a heater or fan most of the time.
If i'm paying for hydro, why use gas....
I have only once had a breaker trip, and in that case, i had a heater, my maxx-air fan, and a toaster running.
When the water pump kicked on, it was too much.

wired properly, most trailers will run on 15 amps, unless you're a real power hog, or have an AC unit.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:59 PM   #28
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Thank you!

Today, we replaced the 15A circuit breaker with a new 15A breaker and tested it. The heater ran without tripping the breaker! We only tested it for 10 minutes, but before, the breaker would trip after about 2 minutes. The new circuit breaker seems to have fixed our problem.
Thanks everyone for your input.
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