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Old 03-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #21
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
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Exercise

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Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
I redid the 110 input power wiring and added a GFCI outlet directly connected to it.

I now have 110 outlets on both sides of the kitchen.

The original 15amp input breaker still protects all the 12 volt wiring.

From what I have been reading I will update the original input breaker to make sure it is working correctly. That is a really good idea! I hadn't thought about it degrading over time and usage.
All circuit breakers have electrical and mechanical functions . If you read the operation manual for a circuit breaker you will see that the breakers are supposed to be exercised on a regular basis. Just like the joints in your body if you don't move them they get stiff, so too with circuit breakers . Breakers in trailers are subject to moisture and varying temps causing the mechanical portions to corrode and when they are called on to trip they are stiff and don't want to move. By switching the breakers on and off ( NOT UNDER LOAD) several times a year you can avoid this problem . Larger breakers can be tested for proper time and current trip operation. but the smaller ones are too inexpensive to warrant this test ., it is cheaper to replace them
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:24 AM   #22
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More on Circuit Breakers

NO you can't just add a duplex breaker to have two 15 amp circuits. The shore plug and cord are usually only rated for 15 amps total. If you upgrade to a heavier 30 amp plug and cable you "may" be able to run two 15 amp circuits, but have a professinal electrician check out the box and wiring for capacity first.
When used, Duplex breakers are almost always smaller than the main breaker and are intended to protect individual branch circuits. There is even a special duplex breaker made that has both a 20 amp (main) breaker and a 15 amp (branch load) breaker in the same package.



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Old 03-06-2012, 10:00 AM   #23
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Main Breaker

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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
NO you can't just add a duplex breaker to have two 15 amp circuits. The shore plug and cord are usually only rated for 15 amps total. If you upgrade to a heavier 30 amp plug and cable you "may" be able to run two 15 amp circuits, but have a professinal electrician check out the box and wiring for capacity first.
When used, Duplex breakers are almost always smaller than the main breaker and are intended to protect individual branch circuits. There is even a special duplex breaker made that has both a 20 amp (main) breaker and a 15 amp (branch load) breaker in the same package.
Be aware that not all branch circuit breakers are UL listed to be back fed and may be illegal when used as a Main Breaker. (When you connect the incoming power to the output terminal screws on the breaker you are back feeding the breaker Breakers rated for back feeding have an additional piece supplied to mechanically secure the breaker to the panel so if the breaker is subjected to fault level currents it will stay in place and not pose an additional hazard
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:22 AM   #24
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The best solution would be to upgrade the service to 30amp as Bob suggests which takes care of the breakers blowing when running microwaves and AC at the same time. Our 13 Scamp had everything in place to do it and just needed an electrician to complete the critical stuff. Always best to have an electrician check it out if you aren't knowledgable in electrical work as it can have serious consequences.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:27 AM   #25
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Name: Brooke
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California
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Good points all!

I have a 30 amp plug as well as a 15 amp along with 10 gage wiring, but my experience from sailing is that there is often very little current available where you can plug-in.

I will change my connection to the new GCFI outlets to a separate plug and change connections or plug-in twice when I want to cook using my coffee maker or George Forman grill.

That is safer!

Thank you.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #26
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
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I think you will find that the parks electrical box hookup are only 15 amp or for larger RV a 30 amp. So this box will usually trip first anyway. I carry a conversion 30 amp RV plug (if availible) and aslo be sure to not run the heater and toaster at the same time. This usually save the breakers from tripping when on a later than 15 amp load.
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:10 PM   #27
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I have a large panel in my trillium, the whole panel is fed with a 15 amp breaker and cord set, from this I have several breakers, to give me the feasibility to isolate what I want.
I typically run my converter and a heater or fan most of the time.
If i'm paying for hydro, why use gas....
I have only once had a breaker trip, and in that case, i had a heater, my maxx-air fan, and a toaster running.
When the water pump kicked on, it was too much.

wired properly, most trailers will run on 15 amps, unless you're a real power hog, or have an AC unit.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:59 PM   #28
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Name: Shaidah
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British Columbia
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Thank you!

Today, we replaced the 15A circuit breaker with a new 15A breaker and tested it. The heater ran without tripping the breaker! We only tested it for 10 minutes, but before, the breaker would trip after about 2 minutes. The new circuit breaker seems to have fixed our problem.
Thanks everyone for your input.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:09 AM   #29
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hooray for us,,,,we helped someone.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:08 PM   #30
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Most outlets in the average home are 15 amp circuits and they run small appliances fine.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:53 PM   #31
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Just for info-the uniform building code now requires 20amp breakers for the kitchen, except for disposal/and range hoods.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:42 AM   #32
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Just for info-the uniform building code now requires 20amp breakers for the kitchen, except for disposal/and range hoods.

But only if you have the 12 gauge wires installed to support the 20 amp breaker. (The breakers and wiring have to match)
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