Checking a Old Scamp Frame for cracks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-09-2016, 08:33 AM   #15
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Like I said.....I will do and what I recommend others who ask is what I have deduced is the best way to do something. Again, I have done EXTENSIVE frame repair on a Scamp and that frame is unsuitable for lifting. I have seen Toyota frames bend from lifting and they are much stronger. Obviously you would not lift from the axle center, but the outer end of the axle on a Scamp is BY FAR the Strongest point on the entire trailer! To each his own. See y'all in Sebring!
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:20 AM   #16
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Last summer I painted the frame with Rustoleum. It was getting badly rusted after our second "spring" trip, having towed along salted highways. To get underneath I pulled the Scamp up on my home made ramps. (They are basically solid wood, each has a pound of nails holding them together.)
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Old 01-09-2016, 10:20 AM   #17
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I'm want to check mine too and was planning to take it into a Les Schwab to have them check the underside. Is that an okay idea if I don't feel up to doing it myself? Any downside?


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Old 01-09-2016, 10:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
This is what I use when I want to work under my trailers. I leave it hooked up to a vehicle or one of my tractors.
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Last summer I painted the frame with Rustoleum. It was getting badly rusted after our second "spring" trip, having towed along salted highways. To get underneath I pulled the Scamp up on my home made ramps. (They are basically solid wood, each has a pound of nails holding them together.)
Having been one of those lucky dumb kids many years ago this is how I do it too. Great minds think alike. Raz
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Old 01-09-2016, 11:32 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Laughingindian View Post
Like I said.....I will do and what I recommend others who ask is what I have deduced is the best way to do something. Again, I have done EXTENSIVE frame repair on a Scamp and that frame is unsuitable for lifting. I have seen Toyota frames bend from lifting and they are much stronger. Obviously you would not lift from the axle center, but the outer end of the axle on a Scamp is BY FAR the Strongest point on the entire trailer! To each his own. See y'all in Sebring!
I'm with you.....if the frame is what's cracking and breaking up, I would jack up where the weight of the trailer is already being supported (near the wheel, on the axle).
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Old 01-09-2016, 11:47 AM   #20
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I don't know about a 13 but on my 16 the frame cracked at the front street side. That would have been easy to see by just cranking the front up with the tongue jack without even getting under the trailer.
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Old 01-09-2016, 01:18 PM   #21
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I recommend lots of support - I know a person who was found dead in his garage with a car on top of him.
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:00 PM   #22
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I'm with you.....if the frame is what's cracking and breaking up, I would jack up where the weight of the trailer is already being supported (near the wheel, on the axle).
It's not the entire frame that is "cracking and breaking up." There are documented weak areas mentioned in earlier posts, but they do not include the main longitudinal frame rails to which the axle is attached.

That is not to say there isn't some long-neglected 40-year-old trailer out there somewhere with a frame that is completely shot, including the main frame rails around the axle attachment. But if the frame is that far gone, (1) it can't be safely towed; it must be flat bedded, (2) your problem is not how to jack it up but how to separate the cabin from the frame so you can fabricate a new frame from scratch, and (3) the axle is probably shot, too, so there is no further harm to be done there.

For newbies considering Scamps, know that newer ones have stronger frames than the older ones. I don't know when the changes were made, possibly when they upgraded to a 2" ball and 5-lug wheels. In any case, the reasons given to disregard the manufacturers' recommendations regarding jacking are overblown.
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:20 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Laughingindian View Post
Put the jack under the axle close to the wheels!
Sorry but this needs a "Do not try this at home" warning!

From my Scamps manual:

"Jacking up the trailer: On the trailer there are two min beams made out of 3 inch by 1 inch tubing, one on each side. Either of these can be used as a point to jack up the trailer. Jack should be placed close to the axle or toward the rear of the trailer, so that the whole weight of the trailer is not on one point. "
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:55 PM   #24
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From my Scamps manual: so that the whole weight of the trailer is not on one point. "
There you have it! The Frame is not strong enough to jack the trailer by! However the axle carries the WHOLE weight over any terrain, for thousands of miles. If the Factory were perfect then half of the threads on this forum would not exist Obviously you would not lift the trailer by the Center of the axle, but out at the end, near the wheel. You can do whatever you want with your Scamp. I gave my opinion and stick by it. I feel that after this I am pretty good judge of how to Safely jack MY Scamp up!


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Old 01-09-2016, 05:35 PM   #25
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On my Scamp I have installed a Flexiride axle and I removed an ALKO.
Both of these axles have thicker wall tubing than the frame.
The old Scamp had 14 gauge steel tubing (0.0782") and the new is 12 gauge (0.1094")
I used 1/8" wall thickness on my front end rebuild (0.125").
The axles I have seen are closer to the 1/8" wall thickness.
The 2500 lb axles are 0.149" and the 3500 lb are 0.187"
The axles are quite a bit stronger than the frames.
One question would be if you were talking abut leaf spring axles where the axle is free to move in relation to the frame and could let things more and slip.



expect the junction of the axle and mounting bracket would be strongest in any case.

The axle is the strongest thing under the trailer as it should be.
For safety if the jack is behind the axle it is less likely to shift than under the axle since it is further behind the center of gravity.

I don't hesitate to jack the axle near the frame, but I make sure the trailer will not tip back.

The weak frame is why the caution to not jack up the trailer from the rear bumper.

Also the shell is mostly supported where the frame passes under the front and rear of the shell in four places.
The fiberglassed floor with no other support add little if any stiffness to the system. No my trailer I have added steel 14 gauge square tubing along the sides and to the frame to support the shell all the way around.
IN this manner the shell and frame both reinforce each other and share the load. Thsiss will add stress to the tongue and is the reason for the 1/8" steel tubing with reinforcing.

As always all advise is worth price charged and standard disclaimers apply.
Any reader should study and and decide for themselves, but following the factory suggestions might always be a good idea. In my case since I have rebuilt most of the trailer and have a different axle I will make up my own mind.
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Old 01-09-2016, 06:16 PM   #26
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There you have it! The Frame is not strong enough to jack the trailer by! However the axle carries the WHOLE weight over any terrain, for thousands of miles. If the Factory were perfect then half of the threads on this forum would not exist Obviously you would not lift the trailer by the Center of the axle, but out at the end, near the wheel. You can do whatever you want with your Scamp. I gave my opinion and stick by it. I feel that after this I am pretty good judge of how to Safely jack MY Scamp up!


You are once again correct !
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:05 PM   #27
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This is what I use when I want to work under my trailers. I leave it hooked up to a vehicle or one of my tractors.
Mary and Bob, Thanks for the photo. It reminded me that I have a set of two stamped metal ramps, something like those. in my pile junk back of my little barn!

What material is your ramps made of?

Bill
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Last summer I painted the frame with Rustoleum. It was getting badly rusted after our second "spring" trip, having towed along salted highways. To get underneath I pulled the Scamp up on my home made ramps. (They are basically solid wood, each has a pound of nails holding them together.)
Thanks Paul! Many years ago I made wood ramps like yours out of 2" by 12", three levels high for a old class motor home.

Very heavy, but worked great for years. I still have one of them in my junk pile!

Bill
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