Compact Jr Roof Poll

[Angie2B]

Hello, my CJ roof is no longer domed, like most of the ones seen these days. I am thinking about rubberizing the roof with that roof coating stuff. Yea or Ney?

[Bobbie Mayer]

I'm confused. Do you mean you don't have the pop top? Is it leaking? What would be the point of rubberizing it?

[rabbit]

Use Google custom search in the search dropdown to find thread on "redoming" CJ roof with curved staves or joists. IIRC, these were wood bonded to the interior top with fiberglass resin or emt conduit bent to the curve desired.

jack

[Angie2B]

The poptop is sunk in. Water can pool there and leak through the bolts up there. I am keeping it covered, but thinking about when we are out camping and it rains. If I wan't to fix it what type of shop would fix it?

[Bob Miller]

You could start out by cleaning the roof and sealing the bolts with Sikaflex self leveling sealant. It has worked real well for me.
As far as redoming the top, unless you have a shop in the area that specializes in restoring older trailers, like The Canned Ham Shop in SoCal, you might try looking for someone that restores furniture. I have a friend in Boise, ID that might be able to help. Do you live Anywhere near there?

[Angie2B]

No I am from Indiana. Does anyone know of a shop from Indiana that might be able to help redo the poptop so that it doesn't sink in. I have thought that if someone could repop it back out and then lay stirofoam strips at regular intervals then fiberglass over that it might keep it lightweight and also provide support. Does this sound doable?

[rabbit]

Yes it does. Good idea. The foam would just a former for the glass u-channel.

jack

[Bob Miller]

I have had to deal with a similar problem with mini-motorhomes, including some of molded fiberglass. What I usually do is emulate the solution that Sunraders used in their roof, starting in 1987, to prevent sagging. They added a curved, stamped steel beam across the inside that anchored to the side walls near the top. The 21' used two, the 18' used one. The way I emulate that idea is to cut a 2x4 or a 2x6 to the width of the top. I then create a curve across the new beam that leaves about 2" of untouched wood at the end of the beam. The curve will push up on the roof when pushed into place. I then Pop rivet an aluminum plate into the side wall about 12" long by about 3" wide to distribute the new load. I Run 3" lag screws through the outside, through the plate and into the beam. Adding about 3 to 5 # 8 s.s. screws through the top helps keep everthing in place. You can cover it with matching upholstery material or pre-finish it as natural wood before final installation. It might add a few lbs to the top, but it's a lot less work and mess than fiberglassing a form into place. Do be sure you cut the sides back enough to clear the roof when closed.

[Don'n'Deb]

That sounds like a plan, I have the same thing going on w/ "There Yet". We are off for two weeks, so are headed outbound, now.

[Angie2B]

Thanks everone for the info.

[DonDeutsch]

Bob, Do you have any pictures of this? thx.

[Steve Hilby]

Here, take a look at this thread, where a similar problem is being discussed:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ass-53808.html

[Bob Miller]

RE: Pics: I think I can find a pic of an original roof beam if that would help.