Connecting solar converter to batteries - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-10-2014, 04:05 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Timber Wolf View Post
That is a puzzler. Here is a pretty clear diagram that shows fuses everywhere: http://www.renogy-store.com/v/vspfiles/photos/RNG-100D-5.jpg One point; modern automotive blade fuse holders are readily available and I have found both 12 gauge and 10 gauge wire models. My local NAPA store had the 10 gauge variety fairly cheaply. The blade fuses are convenient and can be easily tailored to the desired protection just by changing the fuse. But, just like with the old screw in glass fuses one can easily put too much fuse in and have little or no protection.

I wonder if anybody here besides me has had any dealings UL? I can tell you what they do with anything that submitted to them with fuses in them. They defeat the fuses first, then test for safety and failure without fire.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I wonder if anybody here besides me has had any dealings UL? I can tell you what they do with anything that submitted to them with fuses in them. They defeat the fuses first, then test for safety and failure without fire.
So Byron enquiring minds need to know. Did you put a fuse between your solar controller and the trailers battery?
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Old 11-15-2014, 04:35 PM   #17
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The few charge controllers that I have seen have used Mosfet transistors that usually short when they fail. A fuse on the controller to battery is cheap insurance and one on the panel side may save some wiring or worse a panel. Mosfets handle a LOT of current and are usually soldered to some pretty heavy copper traces so if they short , the wires are probably the weak link. Better to have a fuse as that weak link.
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #18
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So Byron enquiring minds need to know. Did you put a fuse between your solar controller and the trailers battery?

No. I didn't. But,,, since my panel is designed to be portable I don't leave it attached when I'm away from the trailer. When I go away from the trailer the panel get's put away in the bed of my truck. It has a nice little cubby hole to live in.
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:38 PM   #19
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The few charge controllers that I have seen have used Mosfet transistors that usually short when they fail. A fuse on the controller to battery is cheap insurance and one on the panel side may save some wiring or worse a panel. Mosfets handle a LOT of current and are usually soldered to some pretty heavy copper traces so if they short , the wires are probably the weak link. Better to have a fuse as that weak link.
Typical failure mode of MOSFET transistors is short followed by open. The time difference can be measured in milliseconds. Not any where long enough to blow the fuse.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:44 PM   #20
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Nothing's blown yet.
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Old 02-01-2015, 12:04 AM   #21
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I'm curious about the LOAD terminals on my 30 amp controller.

I initially didn't plan to use the LOAD terminals, but reading the manual indicates I could run all my Scamp load through the 30 amp LOAD output, which in turn would allow me to compare the amps used by each appliance to the amps provided by the 90 watt solar panel. It would also provide low battery voltage shutoff protection.

Right now, I have fused wiring from the panel to the controller, and fused wiring from the battery to the controller. I also have the original Scamp wiring that links the battery, loads, converter, and tow vehicle power input together.

If I decide to use the LOAD terminals for all my Scamp load wiring, do I need to split the converter and tow vehicle wiring off that circuit and hook those directly to their own battery circuit, or would I keep them connected to the current Scamp wiring and switch that wiring from the battery, to the LOAD terminals which would then also push the converter and tow vehicle charging through the LOAD terminals.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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