Convection/Microwave Oven for Casita

[hcharris]

I am picking up a new Casita in a couple of weeks. I did not get the microwave. The opening is 19 3/4" wide, 12 1/4" high and 16 1/2" deep.

Does anyone have the a microwave/convection oven in their Casita?

Safety first: Do you think a microwave/convection oven in the space above would get too hot/not be safe?

Finally, does anyone know of a microwave/convection oven that will fit in the above space? I have googled without success.

Thanks for looking and any help you can provide.

[Gerry]

I put a convection/microwave in my 5th wheel last summer and it took a much larger space than that.
I came with a tin box built over the back and sides and still needed 4 inches clearance on the top and also a vent to the outside.
I personaly do not think you'll find a convection over that will fit.

[redbarron55]

I put a Sharp convection microwave in my Scamp over the fridge.
It puts out some heat but there is enough clearance in my setup.
We use this and an electric skillet for cooking. No propane stove or cook top.
We do have a small grill for outside use.


Sent from my SCH-I605 using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Casita Greg]

Rather than replacing the microwave outright, because we do use it a lot too, I just take a Cuisinart convection toaster oven along as well. We just store it on a half-sheet aluminum baking tray on the floor of the trailer under the bed when not in use. When we need it, we just set it up on the dinette table. No worries about heat damaging the trailer and any need for "adequate clearances" to combustible surfaces. When we're done, it just goes back under the bed. YMMV

[HappyTrails]

We have the 17 ft Spirit and could not find any convection/microwave to fit when I was looking last winter. We just went with a regular microwave and it's been fine.

[Casita Greg]

It is hard to fit a decent convection toaster oven into the space normally occupied by those factory installed microwaves, at least not without sacrificing a lot in size, (i.e. installing a small and all-but-useless one in order to have sufficient clearances, or one big enough to actually cook in that won't fit, like the one we bought.) Rather than fight it, I just didn't even entertain the thought of trying to replace the microwave. I like having both anyway. They both serve their purposes.

[Leej]

I just purchased a toaster/convection from Wally World, ordered and delivered to my local store. It is a jazzy red color...anyway..it fits fine. I keep my drinking glasses and a few canned goods and some flat things on top of the oven, but remove everything when I use the oven. A slight inconvenience but doable.
The oven is lightweight so I simply sit it on my counter over the sink with the back toward the rear open space, LD, when in use so no issue with overheating.
I haven't tried using the oven inside the cabinet although when I tried the oven in my house the only part of the case that got hot was the very back and the unit is small enough to pull it forward to the door opening and it leaves at least six inches of open space. My concern was lack of circulation in that enclosed space. I wouldn't want to heat damage the wall!
This might seem like a lot of bother but I am coking for one and at times two so am not cooking very much at a time. I love the varied food choices it adds without having to cook outside in bad weather. It makes dynamite toasted sandwiches! It is large enough to bake a few potatoes, a eight inch pie, a tray of biscuits and I can grill steak or burgers too.

[Lady Buckeye]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Rather than replacing the microwave outright, because we do use it a lot too, I just take a Cuisinart convection toaster oven along as well. We just store it on a half-sheet aluminum baking tray on the floor of the trailer under the bed when not in use. When we need it, we just set it up on the dinette table. No worries about heat damaging the trailer and any need for "adequate clearances" to combustible surfaces. When we're done, it just goes back under the bed. YMMV

Greg, I was looking at your table in this photo. It doesn't look like what comes standard. Did you install something else? If so, could you give me any details? Do you have other upgrades that you could share? I have been considering a Casita, but also like to quilt and the table in all the fiberglass trailer, look inadequate.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Lady Buckeye

Greg, I was looking at your table in this photo. It doesn't look like what comes standard. Did you install something else? If so, could you give me any details? Do you have other upgrades that you could share? I have been considering a Casita, but also like to quilt and the table in all the fiberglass trailer, look inadequate.

You have a good eye for details. It isn't the stock table that came with the trailer. I bought one of these (link below) to replace it with. I didn't use the gate leg that came with it since the table won't fold down between the benches anyway. It is permanently mounted. I installed a wooden runner strip to the sidewall of the trailer, (through-bolted with stainless 1/4"x 20 machine screws with white snap caps on the outside,) and used it to mount the table to from underneath. It doesn't rock or wobble one iota anymore. The top measures 31" L X 23.6" W. It's made out of Birch, not that crummy MDF particle board.

I also added a couple of those slide-in plastic storage bins under it as well. Handy for small items like pens, pencils, note pads, playing cards, domino set, etc. They're available from Camping World and probably a few other places as well.

LINK: https://www.amazon.com/NORBO-Solid-B...f+work+tablend

[Casita Greg]

Do you have other upgrades that you could share?

Sorry, I missed the second part of your question as to other upgrades I've done. It may take you a while to catch up though...

ELECTRICAL AND APPLIANCE UPGRADES:
Battery Cut-off Switch Kit
15 Amp/30 Amp Shore Power Adapter
50 Amp/30 Amp Shore Power Adapter
AC Voltage Meter, Hardwired
DC Battery monitor, Hardwired
Marinco 120 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power Inlet Receptacle
4 ft. Trailer Brake Pull Away Switch, Coiled, w/clip and ring
Refrigerator Control Panel Button Guard
Refrigerator Hinge Saver Plates (X2, Upper & lower hinges)
Micro-Air Easy Start for 5 K to 36 K BTU Air Conditioner ASY-364-X36
Progressive Dynamics PD4600 45 Amp. 4 stage Converter Upgrade W/Charge Wizard
Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Surge Protector, Hard-Wired w/Remote Readout Panel
Hot Water Heater Electrical (Shore Power) Remote Control Switch, Mounted Inside
Vu-Cube DirecTV Antenna & Sharp AQUOS 19” LCD Television
Replacement (Upgrade) all interior and exterior lighting to LED’s
Insect Appliance Screens for Furnace
Insect Appliance Screens for Water Heater
Insect Appliance Screens for Refrigerator Vents (Both Upper & Lower Vents)
3-Way Porch Light Wiring Kit
Digital Thermostat Furnace/Air Conditioning/heat Strip Controller and Relay Upgrade
LED Brake/Directional Signal Light (3rd Brake Light, Over Rear Window)
4-Lead Flat Trailer Connector for Stow-Away Box
120 VAC Duplex Receptacle in Closet
Bargman 7-Pin Trailer “pigtail” storage bracket for cord end plug

STRUCTURAL, CHASSIS & RUNNING GEAR:
2" receiver hitch rear for of Casita
Stow-Away Hitch Storage Box w/Hitch Tightening Clamp
15” Tires & Rims - X4, (two spares)
Steel Water Heater Vent Cover Latch
Molded Shelving System for Front Closet
OMW Casita Shock Absorber Kit
EDWIN RV Entry Door Window
EDWIN Window Screen (Upgrade Option)
IKEA Dinette Table
Add-A-Drawer, (X2)
Screen Door Push-bar
Excel Premium Euro Pillow-Top RV Mattress
Peninsula Glass 6” X 10” window, Series 1600 (for front of trailer)
Openable Opaque Screened Window (Mounted in Galley Bulkhead over sink/range)
Jack-E-Up Trailer Tongue Landing Wheel Removable Bracket
Heavy-Duty 3/16” Steel 3” Square Tube Bumper and 2” Receiver Tube
6” X 11” Electrical Hatch Door (for Surge Protector Compartment)
MaxxAir RV Roof Vent Fan Cover
Reflective Belly Band Tape
Bathroom/Closet PVC Hangar Bars (X2)

PLUMBING UPGRADES:
Sea-Land #511 Traveler, Ceramic Toilet
Hi Neck 4” Galley Sink Faucet, Chromed
Outside Shower Mixing Valve w/Quick Disconnect & Hose
Gray Water Tank Vent Mod Kit
Hep-Vo Shower Drain Mod Kit
Hep-Vo Galley Sink Mod Kit
Rhino Sewer Hose and End Fittings Upgrade
Steel Water Heater Door Latch
Toilet Flushing Water Supply Line Shut-off Valve
Spare Water Heater Element and Wrench
Spare Water Heater Anode Rod, Magnesium

Nothing that an extra $6,000 can't do.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by hcharris

I am picking up a new Casita in a couple of weeks. I did not get the microwave. The opening is 19 3/4" wide, 12 1/4" high and 16 1/2" deep.

Does anyone have the a microwave/convection oven in their Casita?

Safety first: Do you think a microwave/convection oven in the space above would get too hot/not be safe?

Finally, does anyone know of a microwave/convection oven that will fit in the above space? I have googled without success.

Thanks for looking and any help you can provide.

We have a Casita and a motorhome. We were going to replace the microwave in the motorhome with a convection/microwave but the manufacturer said not for use in over the stove applications in an RV. I asked the man at Camping World about that since they are for RV's and he said that the areas above a stove do not have the proper venting and will get too hot and could cause a fire. It had nothing to do with being above the stove but that RV's with only a microwave do not have the proper venting. I'd assume the Casita or a Scamp would be the same. I do use a microwave in my Casita but like others take out everything around it and leave the cabinet open when using it. I have a portable convection/microwave that I can take if I want to. Better to be safe than sorry. With the carpet and just fiberglass I wouldn't put a convection of any type in the space for a microwave.

[Casita Greg]

There have been a few Casita owners who have installed small convection toaster ovens in that space in lieu of a microwave, but it also entailed a lot of custom aftermarket work to make it a safe installation. Adding such things as heat reflective insulation on all the interior surfaces, (in addition to the required clearances for airflow around it,) and also installing a couple of those pancake computer fans in the side walls of the cabinet. One to bring fresh air in and one on the other side to the pull hot air out, along with the necessary wiring, switches and minor modifications to the cabinetry. It can be done, but it isn't a simple "drop-in" installation. I guess a lot of taking on such a project is how comfortable you are with your skill sets to accomplish it safely. Of course, you still want it to look nice when you're done too.

[hcharris]

Thank you to everyone who made suggestions. I'm now leaning to putting a small microwave in the space and then getting a toaster/convection oven to store under the bed. This solution gives me everything I want: hot biscuits in the morning and a place to warm my coffee. :-)

[Jon Vermilye]

Originally Posted by hcharris

Thank you to everyone who made suggestions. I'm now leaning to putting a small microwave in the space and then getting a toaster/convection oven to store under the bed. This solution gives me everything I want: hot biscuits in the morning and a place to warm my coffee. :-)

This approach makes sense since you can take the toaster oven outside to bake on hot days. I just baked a blueberry pie on the picnic table on a 80°F day...