Converter & Fuse Panel - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-31-2006, 07:41 PM   #1
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Nita F.'s Avatar
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel Deluxe
Posts: 148
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I've got a '97 scamp and need to replace the stock converter (Magnetek). It has a built in fuse panel (5 fuses). The previous owner already bought an Intellipower PD9130 that does not have a built in fuse panel. It does have the charge wizard.

My question is, can you use an automotive accessory fuse block to fuse the system? If so, is there anything that I should know about this?

I believe the chassis of the converter has a seperate ground from the ground (negative) to the circuits. The positives will go to the fuse block and the negitive goes directly to the converter.

I have spent a couple of hours on the internet searching for a rv fuse panel without much luck.

Any suggestions?

Marty, Nita's other half

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Old 08-31-2006, 11:00 PM   #2
Fred Bell's Avatar
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 33
I found a fuse panel at an RV parts supply store. It uses the traditional glass fuses and holds enough of them for about 8 circuits. I have 2 circuits for lights, 2 circuits for accessories, then separate circuits for the radio, water pump and heater. It's mounted next to the converter.

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Old 09-01-2006, 09:35 AM   #3
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,000
I can't think of any reason why a fuse block would need to be specific to RVs. It's just 12VDC power, as in a car.

I would not use a fuse block designed for the traditional glass-tube (3AG) fuses, because I greatly prefer to use the plastic-bodied blade-style (ATO) fuses which have been standard in cars for over two decades. That's a personal preference; some people find it easier to see whether a fuse is blown or not in the glass design, for instance. Blocks for both types of fuses are available from various automotive sources, as well as for the smaller blade-type fuses which are now common (and are too small for my tastes).

My original-equipment Boler converter has no fuses, and no proper distribution panel: the converter output is wired through three panel-mount circuit breakers which are mounted through holes in the front panel of the converter.

I like the idea of breakers, although the ones in my Boler are annoying in that they have a push-to-reset button, but no way to turn them off like a switch; fuses can be pulled to kill power for troubleshooting or maintenance. Ideally, I would prefer more circuits, and breakers which I can switch; I haven't looked for this type of product yet, since I'll probably keep my original converter as long as it works.

Go-RV / Coast has fuse panels, on the same catalog page as my breakers, for both styles of fuse: from the brand name, I would guess some of them were designed for marine use. Whatever the source, I would consider whether the cover (or lack thereof) is appropriate for use in the trailer.
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:03 AM   #4
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Trailer: 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 257
This link might be useful.
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Old 09-01-2006, 12:36 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1994 20 ft Bigfoot 5th Wheel / Toyota Tacoma SR5
Posts: 229
That's exactly what I did....using the existing fuse panel and just wiring in the charge wizard converter. Works great!!!

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Old 09-03-2006, 06:44 AM   #6
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Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
That's exactly what I did....using the existing fuse panel and just wiring in the charge wizard converter. Works great!!!

Ditto here! Replaced mine with a PD9145. I think the instructions I used were the same ones on the link that Nick posted. It took me a couple of days to get up the courage to do it, but once I got into it, it was very easy and straight forward!

I've always said, it was one of the easiest and best mods I have done!

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