CT Windows, Gape at the Gap.... - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #1
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CT Windows, Gape at the Gap....

Please help, There is a gap in my window space???? Gearing up to put in the new windows and noticed a huge gap... Do you think I need wider trim or do not know how to make window opening smaller. The new trim is 1" wide and the old window trim measurement especially in the corners measures at least 1 1/4 or more inches. I think the only thing holding this window in is silicon 3' thick. HA!
And do you need the pull cord on the escape window as the new trim does not have a pull cord.????? I don't think parts of me would fit through that tiny window anyway.....HA!
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:56 PM   #2
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Looks like the weatherstrip was too short and didn't fit the corners tight. What did you get for new weatherstrip, is it the AS1456 that uses a lock strip. Did you get a tool for the lockstrip? The window requires just about 7 feet of new weatherstrip. I cut a piece a few inches longer to start, but before you cut any, stretch out the old piece tight and measure it to verify the length. Install the new weatherstrip so that the joint is halfway up on the vertical part of the opening. It's much easier with two people because the new weatherstrip is more flexible than the old and wants to twist and fall out of the opening. Be sure it's in tight before you make the final cut to length. Get it to fit on the ends as tight as you can because it will tend to open up that space when you put in the window, but will tighten back when the lock strip is installed. Window goes in from the inside of the trailer. I didn't get that pull tab back in. You will want to use liquid dish soap to get the window into the weatherstrip, and to lube the lock strip too. Don't forget to seal up those two little holes at the top of the window frame because the new weatherstrip is narrower than the original. And make the end seam on the lockstrip at the bottom, just in case you want to get that pull tab back in. Pam may have some more installation tips as she did her windows herself. And if you have extra weatherstrip, keep enough to to the door window if that leaks, or may later.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:09 PM   #3
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Oh my stars... look at that mess. You'll need to clean all that Devil's Bane off. Here's a good thread (direct link): http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post299447

Classic example of a horrible "fix", which isn't.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #4
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Hi, Diane, that's a really messy coating of 'Silly-Cone' on your camper windows! Here's a rather long thread, with a lot of window information. The early portions deal with some 'new old stock windows' that were discovered in a warehouse, and have since been all sold out (sorry, no windows left).
But post 103, 105, 108 by Bob are great and very detailed, along with other memebers' input (indlucing me, # 172). The thread kind of wanders off-subject into a discussion about Vin #s near the end (lol, we tend to do that sometimes around here haha) and maybe you'd like to find your vin # too!

New old stock uhaul side windows
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:47 PM   #5
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HA! Donna I just knew I would hear from you on the silicon... Thanks for the thread.
Bob, I actually think the window might have been cut bigger...I dunno. I held up the new window to it with the new trim and it was bigger by about a 1/4 of an inch all the way around...Has anyone ever used a wider rubber trim or weather strip? I bought mine from MMyer, it's about 1 " wide.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:51 PM   #6
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Pam thanks, I did read that thread some time ago and I was one of the lucky ones to get new old stock windows. Just want them in so badly. Have waited all winter for garage space but that has not worked out. So I just don't want the windows out too long. Worried about the worst one.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:03 PM   #7
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Cool! From my experience, removing the window was really easy, then I just cleaned up the opening with a scraper and a scrubby. Also used my plain old fingernails to get the little bits. Once it was cleaned up, and dry, I was able to get the new window into place in a little over an 1 hour with my husband's help. If you get a nice day, you could do one side all in that day (including the calking too) and still have time for a glass of wine
Unfortunately, I think that you'll spend more time getting that silicone cleaned off than anything else.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #8
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Thanks Pam, And I do like the Vino, HA! Tried to find the Silicon remover made by DAP, could not find it locally. And You are seeing pictures of my windows AFTER I removed a silicon mountain... this mess is what was left...HA!
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis View Post
Thanks Pam, And I do like the Vino, HA! Tried to find the Silicon remover made by DAP, could not find it locally. And You are seeing pictures of my windows AFTER I removed a silicon mountain... this mess is what was left...HA!
Good Grief, you poor thing! How many tubes must have been used on each window?? It seems that you can break the silicone 'seal' around the edge of the gasket with a razor blade, and then try pushing the window out from the inside (have someone outside to catch it). I suspect that a lot of the silicone will come off on the gasket.

....but when you're done, they'll be so very nice looking!
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:17 PM   #10
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I owned a 85 CT13 last year and the front window was silly coned in and duct tapped. It took a while to clean everything up and removed the window and frame. I then reinstalled the frame using butyl tape. It did not leak after the repair.
Chuck
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:21 AM   #11
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My Window had the same Gap and with the new rubber in it the gap is now gone. I used the as-1488 from CL Laurence and it seems to be fine for the application.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:09 AM   #12
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The 1488 has a wider groove on one side than the original Uhaul rubber. 1488 has 1/4" wide both grooves, 1456 has one 1/4" groove and one 3/16" groove same as original. Some like to use the 1488 because?? Diane, when you get a window out measure the opening, mine is 24 5/8 wide, 19 1/8 high. Yours should be close to that.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:56 AM   #13
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Diane, I think that you have been given excellent advice. All I can add is that you may want to measure the openings carefully, including the radii to see if the opening has been altered. On my UHaul, the rubber in the corners flares out much more than I see in your photo, easily covering the corner. As Bob said, the new rubber is more flexible and cut long enough should push out into the corners more thoroughly.

If the opening is oversized you might be able to use an alternate weatherstrip. Worst case, you could get the custom made teardrop window that was recently located on another thread.

One last note. After I rebuilt my windows, they still leaked at the interface of the rubber weatherstrip and the bottom of the metal window frame. You may need to carefully shoot some liquid butyl caulk into that interface. Easier said than done as once it is installed, it is hard to get it into the gap. And if done while installing, it takes another 3 hands.

Good luck.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:24 AM   #14
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Thanks all of you, I do appreciate your advice. Waiting on the weather to give me 3 days of sun .... This is hard to do when you have cabin fever, and know Spring is coming, the birds are singing and woods are beckening... I wish I could Say, "I don't do windows"
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