Curtain Rod Brackets...I need suggestions - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-18-2009, 05:52 PM   #15
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For every curtain rod, remember you need a minimum of four rivets/screws for the brackets... just at the top! So... rather than drill through the hull to mount brackets, and if you have an inner window clamp ring, consider riveting a "bar" to the window ring and mounting the brackets there.

My Scamp has 24 through-the-hull rivets just for curtain rods! I figure that's 24 potential leak points I'd rather never have. GAD
Donna, do you have a pict of the widow to show the rivets from outside...I like this option.

Paul
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:40 PM   #16
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Hi Paul,

I'm not Donna, but I had also saved a photo of that attachment method. I don't think there would *be* any rivets on the outside, because from what I can see, that method is just riveting a bar/bracket onto the inside metal of the window frame* So it only goes into the inside of the window frame, and the back of the rivet would not be on the outside of the camper.

Raya

*If your window frame would work for that option, which it may not; I don't think you have the deep, clamp ring style. But on the other hand, don't you have wooden frames inside the ensolite? They seem like they would be perfect for attaching curtain rods to without going through the shell.

Edited to add: Here's another photo of that same installation, although I think Donna's original photo showed it better in terms of how the rivet goes through the window frame but not the camper (earlier in this thread):


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Old 10-19-2009, 07:24 PM   #17
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Donna,

Agreed! Not that there is anything wrong with rivets, but four to hold up a curtain rod that measures in ounces is just silly, in my opinion.

I'm going to be removing mine and then either suspending the curtain/rods from upper cabinets (where feasible), or mounting the rods with these Weld Mount products. They're "only" adhesive, but are quite strong (they hold up things much heavier than curtain rods in fiberglass boat building applications). I figure that I could slip them through small slits in the Ensolite (and/or use one of the gaps in the Ensolite that the rivets made):

Link to Weld Mount products at Jamestown Distributors:
http://tinyurl.com/ykvw95m

Photo of one type of stud in the Weld Mount system, for those who are not in a link-clicking mood:


Attachment 24344


By the way, the "weld" is an acrylic adhesive that is made for the system; so there is no actual welding going on. (More info below.)

I like the metal strap you have shown (and in fact had previously saved that exact same photo), but one issue I think I would have with it is that you cannot then slide the curtains off to the side very well, and/or they might not give full privacy coverage at the sides. I mean, compared to the usual mounting of curtain rods that are set wider than the window frame.

When I get around to doing mine I'll post photos.

Raya

PS: Here is a bit more info on the Weld Mount system; more can be found at either Weld Mount's website or at the website I linked above.

The Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs are designed to work with Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive. Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs may be attached to virtually any surface for hanging panels, through deck mounts, or anywhere a sturdy mount is needed.

The Weld Mount Fastening System removes the need to install screws into or through cored substrates, thus eliminating a major cause of composite [my note: i.e. fiberglass and/or cored fiberglass] delamination.


The Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs may be bonded from either surface of the standoff base plate.

The Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive will bond to Fiberglass, Steel, Aluminum, Glass, Wood and many other substrates. However, it should be noted that the Weld Mount adhesive will not bond well to StarBoard, low energy plastics or rubber.

The Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive is specially formulated to hold studs and standoffs without sagging. The Acrylic Adhesive cures in 10 minutes and has a working strength within 30 minutes at 72 Degrees F. The 50 ML cartridge will bond approximately 100-150 parts.

Hey, Robert here!

When I got my Scamp I didn't like the look or mechanics of the stock curtain rod brackets, so I got rid of them all. Then, before I had the trailer repainted, I had all extraneous holes filled. I've been playing around with different curtain suspension options like those brackets affixed to the window frame. But now, I think these Weld Mount standoffs present just the solution I've been looking for.

Thanks!


PS. One hitch:The adhesive is a bit pricy for just 6 studs...
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:33 PM   #18
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PS. One hitch:The adhesive is a bit pricy for just 6 studs...
Ah, but think of all the other uses you'll find for them once you have them around Suddenly, everything will be "weld mounted"
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:55 PM   #19
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We used these. They are like a miniature "I" beam and available from most places that sell fabrics.
It was suggested at the time that I should remove a square of fabric or ensolite at each attachment and epoxy a small square of plywood into which I could fasten the curtain rods. I did that and then glued the fabric back on top so that the wood blocks were less noticable and screwed the brackets to them. The curtain rods bend easily to match the curve of the trailer shell and look good when installed.
Problem..... The wood blocks fell off the first trip out. So I then, [oh horrors] drilled right through the shell and bolted them up with stainless fasteners and have had no further problems. The bolt heads are hardly noticable from the outside after the trailer wa painted.


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They have been up for three summers now.
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:11 PM   #20
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Attachment 24436


We used these. They are like a miniature "I" beam and available from most places that sell fabrics.
It was suggested at the time that I should remove a square of fabric or ensolite at each attachment and epoxy a small square of plywood into which I could fasten the curtain rods. I did that and then glued the fabric back on top so that the wood blocks were less noticable and screwed the brackets to them. The curtain rods bend easily to match the curve of the trailer shell and look good when installed.
Problem..... The wood blocks fell off the first trip out. So I then, [oh horrors] drilled right through the shell and bolted them up with stainless fasteners and have had no further problems. The bolt heads are hardly noticable from the outside after the trailer wa painted.


Attachment 24438


They have been up for three summers now.
James, this is what I'm thinking of going to for the simple reason they are easier to bend to the profile of the trailer.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:33 PM   #21
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OK, here's my input. I kept hoping I would be able to get some pictures, and I still plan to do it, but it's snowing here in Aurora, Colorado, and I just got home from Arizona last night and I'm feelng really stupid for coming home when it was very nice and hot down there and it's really crappy and cold up here. But, we had to come home so I'll tough it out for this winter, I guess. I'll post pictures as soon as it warms up a bit and I can get them done.

Anyway, Shirley made some curtains for the Casita LD and I used standard, cheapy, single curtain rods from Target and those little flimsy brackets that come with them. The rods we used had the standard 2 1/2 inch (I think) stand-off from the wall and each end curves around to the bracket.

I bought a 3 foot piece of 1/8 inch by 3/4 inch aluminum bar stock from ACE hardware. I cut short pieces (about 3 inches long)..you can develop what works for you... and pop-riveted the flimsy brackets to them, near the end. Then using a pilot drill, then 1/2 inch self-tapping pan head sheet metal screws, I attached the straps to the "Lip" of the upper cabinets on each side of the windows. It only took one screw and they were very tightly mounted in a downward hangin position with the "flimsy" bracket in perfect position for the curtain rod to tip in and lock on the ears of the bracket. When you pull the curtain around the curved end of the curtain rod, it hides the whole bracket and strap. We just got back from a 2,000 mile trip and they are still as solid as a rock. It also allowed me to remove and throw away, those pesky 2 slats from the miny blinds that kept sliding out of position as we traveled.

One other unplanned benefit was that we could pull the miny blinds up and leave the curtains closed while traveling and they didn't flop all over the place as they usually did. The curtains do hang out away from the wall of the Casita a bit on the sides, due to the slope of the wall, and I'm thinking of putting a bungy or even another rod at the bottom to hold them back against the wall when we sleep in the twin bunks on the sides. They are just a bit of a nuisance in that regard, but liveable.

I'm sorry I don't have pictures now but I did want to at least try to paint a "mental picture" for you.

later,

EKW
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:44 PM   #22
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I took the cafe curtain brackets that came with the rods and bent the lower piece upwards. This made the bracket mounting holes closer together. Drilled some small pilot holes into the ends of the mini-blind and attached the brackets. Tightened up the space that holds the rod and hasn't moved since.



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Old 10-22-2009, 09:11 AM   #23
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I took the cafe curtain brackets that came with the rods and bent the lower piece upwards. This made the bracket mounting holes closer together. Drilled some small pilot holes into the ends of the mini-blind and attached the brackets. Tightened up the space that holds the rod and hasn't moved since.
If I understand what you did, that would have been a lot simpler. Good idea.

EKW
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:05 PM   #24
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There were a couple of things we didn't like about the stock curtain rods and brackets that came with our Scamp. One was the rod across the back of our trailer kept coming down, and the second was it got bent. So when I re-did the cabinetry over our dinette I made new rods that both fit into our decor and wouldn't shake loose.


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The curtain rod itself is a 3/8" hardwood dowel from Home Depot that's been cut to length, had holes drilled in it at either end, and had the ends rounded off with sandpaper. (The long rod over the back window has an extra hole and support in the middle.) The hardware that attaches it to the underside of my cabinets are hardwood trim pieces that I drilled so they'd have a nice, round depression for the dowel and a hole drilled through the middle for a #6 screw to pass through. A little spray paint and . . . viola!



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Drilling the holes for the rods and supports can be done with a hand-drill, but is much easier with a drill press.

The new curtain rods don't fall down when we're towing our trailer and look good, so we're happy. Their only downside is one has to get out a screwdriver to pull the curtains down for cleaning, but that doesn't happen very often. We're pretty happy with them.
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:42 AM   #25
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I'm reviving this old thread since it brings up interesting aspects of what I want to discuss.

I'm planing on using the café brackets since that's what was there. I removed them before painting. In my front and back (curved) windows, I'll use the short brackets at the end and a longer one in the middle so the rod can stay pretty much straight. That's plan A.

But I've been wondering if anyone has used curved rods: a copper tube, some flexible pvc (to make a curved rod, not a straight one), some tubing to tap maple trees... It seems to me that a curved rod would seal the window better and would not use up the already limited bed space.

What do you think?
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