Curtain Rod Brackets...I need suggestions - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-07-2009, 08:46 AM   #1
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Hi there folks, I was just wondering how most of you have your curtains (brackets) attached to the trailer. I'm tired of my curtain falling off. I getting new curtains made up with different "Nascar" driver #'s for the curtains & I'm thinking of going to the "I beam Track". Has anyone used this or do you have any other suggetions before I get the curtains made up...don't be shy I'd like any pros or cons to the different forms of brackets.

Below is the link to ebay for the bracket that I'm debating on getting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


Thanks for your assistance once again,

Paul
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:05 AM   #2
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Small clear plastic wire ties, sold in Wal Mart the auto section. Just lock each end of the rod into the brackets. A very inexpensive solution. Works great, Just cut off the tie if you want to remove or replace curtain. My brackets are pop riveted on and I have never had one come off.
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:30 AM   #3
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Hi there folks, I was just wondering how most of you have your curtains (brackets) attached to the trailer.
Paul,

The picture is of a bracket in our Fiber Stream. I don't know if they are still available. They are spring clips screwed onto wooden blocks that are glued and screwed (one through the hull screw) to the wall. We have never had a curtain come down in transit.


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The idea of using wire ties is a good one.

Hope this helps,
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:15 PM   #4
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Attachment 24005


This is also what we have in our trailer. What we have done is simply tighten the loop which the rod is cradelled in. You must either use some pretty rough roads or drive with some/all the windows open for the rod to be falling off!! The idea of little (clear/white) plastic wire ties sounds like a great solution....
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:13 PM   #5
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Hi there folks, I was just wondering how most of you have your curtains (brackets) attached to the trailer. I'm tired of my curtain falling off. I getting new curtains made up with different "Nascar" driver #'s for the curtains & I'm thinking of going to the "I beam Track". Has anyone used this or do you have any other suggetions before I get the curtains made up...don't be shy I'd like any pros or cons to the different forms of brackets.

Below is the link to ebay for the bracket that I'm debating on getting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


Thanks for your assistance once again,

Paul
Hey Paul

Here's an option for ya. I choose to go with the darkest Tint I could get, 5% Limo Tint (Tinted both sides, front and back/all windows). This allows you to see out but nobody can see in (unless pressed up against your window/security/privacy). If I need more light, or a no Tint view I just open the window. It gives it a clean and more spacious feeling inside (at least that's how I see it). No more opening and closing curtains, curtains hanging on my shoulder while seated at the back benches. I replaced all the screens and spline (Black colour new/old was gray colour). Replaced all old gray lever type window cranks with new Black knob type as well. I did have to shop around for Tint pricing though. Three shops wanted $450-$500 for the Tint job (can we say gouge! lol), but in the end I got a local guy to do it for $130 cash (all in, taxes included). Just as cheap as new curtains rods and hardware (if not cheaper). Pays to shop. I had the original orange with yellow frill trim curtains (which were dirty and faded and the curtain rods/rings and brackets were scratched up badly). The bracket screws were rusted to, so I filled the old holes with SS screws. Here's some pics (pic says a thousand words).
Note: front window pic is darker as the stone gaurd is down. No interior light is turned on during the photos and it is an overcast/rainy day (no flash was used on camera). Just as easy to see out sunny or not, Love it!

Cheers Jeff
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:54 PM   #6
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Hi Paul,

My wife uses the long springs, they never come off.

Harry
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:12 PM   #7
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I choose to go with the darkest Tint I could get, 5% Limo Tint (Tinted both sides, front and back/all windows). This allows you to see out but nobody can see in (unless pressed up against your window/security/privacy).
I too have "5% Limo Dark" tint on all of my trailer's windows. During [b]daylight hours when the sun is up outside, it works just as you say.

AFTER DARK, when the sun goes down and you use the [b]interior lights, It's Showtime!

In addition to the window tint, I also use REDI-SHADES and curtains after dark.
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:30 PM   #8
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I too have "5% Limo Dark" tint on all of my trailer's windows. During [b]daylight hours when the sun is up outside, it works just as you say.

AFTER DARK, when the sun goes down and you use the [b]interior lights, It's Showtime!

In addition to the window tint, I also use REDI-SHADES and curtains after dark.
Point taken. I do private stuff (change clothes etc.) at the front portion of my trailer with the stone guard down at night, no problem with prying eyes. I could see it being a problem for some. I guess I'm just not that shy lol. Generally I am to busy playing cards, socializing or sleeping during the night. I save the sight seeing for daylight hours or at the camp fire.

Very nice trailer you've got there. I like your blinds, with the clips to hold them back off your neck or shoulders.

Cheers Jeff
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:51 PM   #9
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[quote]The picture is of a bracket in our Fiber Stream. I don't know if they are still available.

Attachment 24005

I have the same ones. They're called "Cafe Rods" and should be available almost anywhere.
Mine have fallen down on occasion, but usually when Robert's driving...
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:19 PM   #10
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Small clear plastic wire ties, sold in Wal Mart the auto section. Just lock each end of the rod into the brackets. A very inexpensive solution. Works great, Just cut off the tie if you want to remove or replace curtain. My brackets are pop riveted on and I have never had one come off.
Eddie
I was thinking of installing the bottom rod, like the door window has, to keep them from falling off, but I already have the clear plastic zip ties, sounds like a better idea, then I can still tie back the curtains. Thanks for the great idea! I will get it done ASAP!
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:14 PM   #11
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For every curtain rod, remember you need a minimum of four rivets/screws for the brackets... just at the top! So... rather than drill through the hull to mount brackets, and if you have an inner window clamp ring, consider riveting a "bar" to the window ring and mounting the brackets there.

My Scamp has 24 through-the-hull rivets just for curtain rods! I figure that's 24 potential leak points I'd rather never have. GAD
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:27 PM   #12
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Donna,

Agreed! Not that there is anything wrong with rivets, but four to hold up a curtain rod that measures in ounces is just silly, in my opinion.

I'm going to be removing mine and then either suspending the curtain/rods from upper cabinets (where feasible), or mounting the rods with these Weld Mount products. They're "only" adhesive, but are quite strong (they hold up things much heavier than curtain rods in fiberglass boat building applications). I figure that I could slip them through small slits in the Ensolite (and/or use one of the gaps in the Ensolite that the rivets made):

Link to Weld Mount products at Jamestown Distributors:
http://tinyurl.com/ykvw95m

Photo of one type of stud in the Weld Mount system, for those who are not in a link-clicking mood:



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By the way, the "weld" is an acrylic adhesive that is made for the system; so there is no actual welding going on. (More info below.)

I like the metal strap you have shown (and in fact had previously saved that exact same photo), but one issue I think I would have with it is that you cannot then slide the curtains off to the side very well, and/or they might not give full privacy coverage at the sides. I mean, compared to the usual mounting of curtain rods that are set wider than the window frame.

When I get around to doing mine I'll post photos.

Raya

PS: Here is a bit more info on the Weld Mount system; more can be found at either Weld Mount's website or at the website I linked above.

The Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs are designed to work with Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive. Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs may be attached to virtually any surface for hanging panels, through deck mounts, or anywhere a sturdy mount is needed.

The Weld Mount Fastening System removes the need to install screws into or through cored substrates, thus eliminating a major cause of composite [my note: i.e. fiberglass and/or cored fiberglass] delamination.


The Weld Mount Stainless Steel Standoffs may be bonded from either surface of the standoff base plate.

The Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive will bond to Fiberglass, Steel, Aluminum, Glass, Wood and many other substrates. However, it should be noted that the Weld Mount adhesive will not bond well to StarBoard, low energy plastics or rubber.

The Weld Mount AT-4020 Acrylic Adhesive is specially formulated to hold studs and standoffs without sagging. The Acrylic Adhesive cures in 10 minutes and has a working strength within 30 minutes at 72 Degrees F. The 50 ML cartridge will bond approximately 100-150 parts.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:30 PM   #13
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I like the metal strap you have shown (and in fact had previously saved that exact same photo), but one issue I think I would have with it is that you cannot then slide the curtains off to the side very well, and/or they might not give full privacy coverage at the sides. I mean, compared to the usual mounting of curtain rods that are set wider than the window frame.
I at first thought that too Raya, but the picture looks like the exact same thing as in my Scamp (except where the rods are mounted of course). The rod expands, so I just lift it up and push the curtain to outside the window area then put it back down in the bracket. As long as there is a clear spot for the rod to lay on the bracket, you could make the curtain as long as you want/need and still get it out of the way. It wouldn't work where the rod slides into a "sleeve" in the curtain, only if using "eyelets" like the picture shows. So yes, full coverage (and more) is possible.

The weld mount looks interesting. I curious to see how well it will stick to rough fiberglass.
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:02 PM   #14
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Hi Donna,

The Weld-Mount studs stick very well to prepped fiberglass. Boatbuilders use them to do things like hold up heavy wire/cable runs (where you can't just put a screw or rivet through the hull without a "sinking" feeling, or, in cored boats, penetrating the core, which is not a good thing). They will hold up quite a bit of weight (specs are on the website); much more than a typical curtain.

The fiberglass would not want to be too rough. I mean, if it were smooth, you would have to rough it up a bit for "tooth," but on the other hand, you wouldn't want it to be so rough that the stud base did not sit down properly.

If one were to peel back the Ensolite/rat fur, then of course it would be easy to prepare a mounting spot with a bit of sandpaper (then you could also just have a very tiny hole for the stud to poke through when you put the Ensolite/rat fur back up).

In places where it is not convenient/possible to peel back the Ensolite/rat fur, I have thought about making an inconspicuous slit in the wall covering; just enough to slip a stud through. Possibly then you could use the same stud with a bit of sandpaper spray glued to the back side of the mounting disc (or, carefully, something like a Dremel attachment), to spin around and prep the surface. This is one of those things where you would just have to try it to see how it would go. Of course peeling back the wall covering would make it easier - could perhaps do that while re-bedding windows.

Mine are on my to-do list, but on the other hand, since they are not leaking, I'm not pressed to get going on it. In the long run, I'd like to eliminate most of the rivets, bit by bit.

Raya
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