Cutting Fiberglass

[Bob H]

That 400-3/55 400 Series XPR Rotary Tool Kit is exactly the attachment I was describing in my last post. It really helps cutting a straight line.
ConwayBob

[AndyW]

I'm surprised no one's mentioned this - I've tried Dremels and jigsaws and Sawzalls and they all work, but they're all really slow. If you want to cut a hole in fiberglass NOW, use an angle grinder.

It's easy to cut more than you planned, but pretty also easy to follow a line. If you need to smooth out a section, just use the flat of the grinding disc instead of the edge.

Naturally, it kicks up dust like nobody's business, so wear a mask or two.

I was doing some mid-level surgery to my Burro with one today. And you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for like $15 usually.

[Larry&Carrie]

I'm surprised no one's mentioned this - I've tried Dremels and jigsaws and Sawzalls and they all work, but they're all really slow. If you want to cut a hole in fiberglass NOW, use an angle grinder.

It's easy to cut more than you planned, but pretty also easy to follow a line. If you need to smooth out a section, just use the flat of the grinding disc instead of the edge.

Naturally, it kicks up dust like nobody's business, so wear a mask or two.

I was doing some mid-level surgery to my Burro with one today. And you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for like $15 usually.

I use what is referred to as a die grinder also, with a thin 3 1/2 or 4 inch wheel. Yeah it does cut...... and a lot of dust... but with a steady hand goes thru it like hot butter. Larry

[Andrew Gibbens]

If you have a jigsaw, the most controllable cut comes from using a RIFF blade like this:



The blade has a grit edging, lasts a long while and cuts sweetly - the problem with wood blades is that they start out overly aggressive, have a short sweet spot before they become just plain blunt and start burning the edge as much as cutting it.

Andrew

[Pete Dumbleton]

I once had a problem with the shear pin on a stern-drive for a boat. The pin was frozen in place and I was reluctant to do more than tap on it for fear of damaging the gears or aluminum housing. The pin was about the same diameter and length as my little finger.

I found a round hack-saw blade with the same carbide grit on it as the blade above and filed on end to the same diameter as the rest of the blade. Drilled a hole down the length of the pin, inserted the blade, fitted the frame and sawed the pin into two pieces which tapped out nicely.

BTW, the propeller was still frozen to the shaft, so I put the boat in the water on trailer with no shear pin, started engine put in gear and goosed it. Prop came free of shaft.