demand type water heaters - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-05-2007, 06:40 AM   #15
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Valerie,

I found the brand name on our inline water heater & a link that shows one like ours, or very much like it. Go to: http://www.lorenzetti.com.br/ing/maxiaquecedor.htm#
I still plan to post pics but I wanted to go ahead & pass this along to you.

Brian mentioned the electrical capacity needed to run this, in addition to AC, etc. We do have 50 amps in our camper, so we never have a problem with everything going at once.

Sandra
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the link. Doesn't indicate dimensions anywhere that I can see. Any chance you'd be able to 'guestimate ' the measurements for me? Also. I see that it specifies '127 Volt'. Since most, if not all, of our small appliances are 120Volt, (and so I'm assuming the wiring in my Trill is 110 - 120Volt) I'm wondering if your wiring is of larger capacity; if not, has the higher voltage of the heater ever caused any sort of problem? Oh, and another thing...some of the inline heaters I've seen offered on line specify that only copper piping is to be used with the heater, 'not PVC' etc. Which did your hubby use? Thanks!
Val
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:13 AM   #16
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I assume that the "127 volt" specification is a typo - it wouldn't the only one on that web site. Nominal voltage supplied by power utilities varies from 110 V to 120V, and actual voltage at any moment varies even more. Electrical connectors and other devices are routinely rated at 125V to be conservative (likely including all of the AC wiring in our trailers), and on the other end of the range appliances will normally show allowed input voltage range down to 110V.

Even if the heater were designed for 127V, it would presumably just heat a little less effectively at our typical actual input voltages.
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:34 PM   #17
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Valerie,
Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I measured the heater & the cylinder is only 4 1/2" high & about 3 1/2" across. Pretty small. Ours is attached to the faucet with clear tubing & we've never had any problem with it.
Sandra
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:37 PM   #18
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I hate to be the bearer of possible bad news, but if you look in the technical information on that heater site the heater requires a 50 amp breaker. The 50 amps would be confirmed by 5400 watts and 127 volts. Volts x amps = watts 127 x 50 = 6350 watts. A 5400 watt heater would actually draw approx. 47 amps, very high for most of our trailers. I would also like to find an inline heater but my Boler only has a 30 amp system and would mean installation of a new panel. Might still be reasonable if I decide to install a shower in the bathroom but I can do all the work myself.
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:03 PM   #19
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Neil,
That's interesting. All I can tell you is that we've used the water heater numerous times with the AC running full blast & the microwave going too. Is there an electrician out there who can explain the numbers?
Sandra
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Old 10-11-2007, 01:12 PM   #20
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Typical "50 amp" RV electrical service is like the connection to an electric kitchen range at home: it is really two 120V AC lines, each capable of delivering 50 amps, sharing one neutral connection, plus a ground. Any appliance which needs 240 V is connected between these two lines; 120V appliances are connected to one of the lines, plus neutral. That's why the plug as four contacts (2 lines + neutral + ground).

It is possible that Sandra's trailer is wired with the water heater on 50 amp circuit, with everything else sharing the other 50 amp circuit. If everything is 120V, then the total amps taken by everything connected to the same incoming line (and operated at the same time) must not exceed 50.

This style of 50 A service can provide over three times as much power as a typical 30 A (one 120V line) setup like my Boler (120 V x 50 A x 2 circuits = 12,000 watts versus 120 V x 30A = 3,600 watts), and is appropriate for RVs with multiple air conditioners, or all-electric heating and cooking.

My first house only had 60A (x 2) service!
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:08 AM   #21
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In our travels to central and south america, we took many showers in local establishments. Most of these showers had hot water ( if any ) supplied by an on demand heater screwed to the shower head pipe. The wiring to these units were often pretty scary and never seemed to be larger that #14 or possibly #12 wire of questionable origin. Therefore I am assuming that the current requirement is suprisingly small. As one might suspect, the quanity of heat was somewhat related to the flow rate. It took some getting used to, but proved to be adequate.
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Old 09-19-2009, 03:11 PM   #22
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But don't forget in S. America, like in Europe, they use 220 volt electricity which only needs half the size of wire that 110 volts does for the same power output.

Here are the specs of a 'typical' tankless hot water heater:

Eemax EX95 "Flow Controlled" Electric Tankless Water Heater Specifications:
EX = Bottom Water Connection, 1/2" compression fittings
Volts 240V
KW 9.5kW
Amps 40A
Rise at .75 GPM 87F
Rise at 1.0 GPM - 65F
Rise at 1.5 GPM - 43F
Rise at 2.0 GPM 32F
Wire Size AWG 10
Dimensions - 10.75" x 5.25" x 2.125"
Weight 3 lbs
Element - Replaceable cartridge insert

I found this perusing the following website which has a very good explanation:

http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:16 PM   #23
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Today I was with friends at Costco and they have a 110 v On demand hot water heater with spigot for around 100 bucks + ( I was more interested in the watts then anything else)
edit 129 bucks
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Productgroup....topnav=&s=1

Get this, it uses 780 watts! 6.5 amps and claims 60 cups/ hour. I could probably engineer a shower from that.

Maybe in a few months more I may look into this, meanwhile we just use or 35 cup coffee maker from the yard sale. We set it outside and I mix some cold water in a bowl and Viola! face wash, toothbrushing, dishwashing, etc.
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