Disconnecting P2 Brake Controller - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-08-2014, 04:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I recently had a problem like you're talking about, battery seeming to run down after a few days. I had a bad battery, replaced one years later same thing, replaced it again with another brand, no problems over a year later.
I had a problem about 3 years ago with battery running down. After a couple of shops couldn't find the problem, I figured I would have to figure it out and finally found a bad passenger door switch. Sometimes the floor light stayed on and ran the battery down, but not all the time.

I replaced the switch and put a new battery in about 1 1/2 years ago. Everything was fine until about a month ago. I put it on the charger for 3 hours and battery didn't take a charge. When I jumped it and drove for a while, it seemed to take a charge. So until I find the multimeter, I'm shooting in the dark.

I "think" I have seen the light on the brake controller on when I have got in the car. I don't know if it comes on when I use the door opener or if it was already on. I know for sure it is off some of the time. So there may or may not be a problem there. That's why I wanted to remove it.

I have had the battery go dead twice this fall and both times when I hadn't started the suv for at least 3 weeks. Maybe it is just acting the way it is supposed to act.

I think I will get a solar trickle charger, but that's a topic for a different thread.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I had a problem about 3 years ago with battery running down. After a couple of shops couldn't find the problem, I figured I would have to figure it out and finally found a bad passenger door switch. Sometimes the floor light stayed on and ran the battery down, but not all the time.

I replaced the switch and put a new battery in about 1 1/2 years ago. Everything was fine until about a month ago. I put it on the charger for 3 hours and battery didn't take a charge. When I jumped it and drove for a while, it seemed to take a charge. So until I find the multimeter, I'm shooting in the dark.

I "think" I have seen the light on the brake controller on when I have got in the car. I don't know if it comes on when I use the door opener or if it was already on. I know for sure it is off some of the time. So there may or may not be a problem there. That's why I wanted to remove it.

I have had the battery go dead twice this fall and both times when I hadn't started the suv for at least 3 weeks. Maybe it is just acting the way it is supposed to act.

I think I will get a solar trickle charger, but that's a topic for a different thread.

The light on the P2 comes on when ever you step on the brakes. It goes a short time later.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:51 PM   #17
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The light on the P2 comes on when ever you step on the brakes. It goes a short time later.
The light comes on before that. When I start the vehicle and trailer is connected, it displays C. If not connected, I think it displays p.
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:10 PM   #18
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The light comes on before that. When I start the vehicle and trailer is connected, it displays C. If not connected, I think it displays p.
Mine displays C when the trailer brakes are connected, a single light if no trailer is connected and the boost is off, two lights if the boost is on but only when the brake pedal is pushed. I just checked that's way it works, and I believe that's way it worked in previous tow. My current tow has a factory tow package and a Tekonsha tow vehicle specific cable. It was plug and play. My previous tow I had wired at an RV shop.

When towing for long distances the lights all go our until I press on the brake pedal.

Sounds like they might some wire errors involved.
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:20 PM   #19
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When you are not connected, it should show nc first and then show just one or two dots. If it shows "p", it could be some code and you should look for that in the manual. When the car is "asleep", it should also go to sleep.

The latch for the connector is not as easy to deal with as was suggested. Look at the Teconsha pictures on their web page again. The latch in on the connector and can only be activated after you get your fingers, or a thin tool, to the top of it, where the holder ribs are visible. It is hard to describe, but as I said earlier, you could get it done with a tool made of a 12 gauge steel wire or some piece of thin sheet metal. Tricky, but doable.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:09 PM   #20
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When you are not connected, it should show nc first and then show just one or two dots. If it shows "p", it could be some code and you should look for that in the manual. When the car is "asleep", it should also go to sleep.

The latch for the connector is not as easy to deal with as was suggested. Look at the Teconsha pictures on their web page again. The latch in on the connector and can only be activated after you get your fingers, or a thin tool, to the top of it, where the holder ribs are visible. It is hard to describe, but as I said earlier, you could get it done with a tool made of a 12 gauge steel wire or some piece of thin sheet metal. Tricky, but doable.
You're right. Mine displays nc and then dots, not p. I don't know why I was thinking p. Maybe because it is P2.

It was too cold to mess with it today. I have to take off the panel under the dash to see if the wires are tied up or just short. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:10 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
When you are not connected, it should show nc first and then show just one or two dots. If it shows "p", it could be some code and you should look for that in the manual. When the car is "asleep", it should also go to sleep.

The latch for the connector is not as easy to deal with as was suggested. Look at the Teconsha pictures on their web page again. The latch in on the connector and can only be activated after you get your fingers, or a thin tool, to the top of it, where the holder ribs are visible. It is hard to describe, but as I said earlier, you could get it done with a tool made of a 12 gauge steel wire or some piece of thin sheet metal. Tricky, but doable.
According to the manual there's no "P" listed, but there is a P.L. which indicates a loss of power while braking. That's not saying there's no non-published error codes.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:12 PM   #22
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The latch for the connector is not as easy to deal with as was suggested. Look at the Teconsha pictures on their web page again. The latch in on the connector and can only be activated after you get your fingers, or a thin tool, to the top of it, where the holder ribs are visible. It is hard to describe, but as I said earlier, you could get it done with a tool made of a 12 gauge steel wire or some piece of thin sheet metal. Tricky, but doable.
I tried with a thin screw driver, but no luck.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:13 PM   #23
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According to the manual there's no "P" listed, but there is a P.L. which indicates a loss of power while braking. That's not saying there's no non-published error codes.
It was my mistake. It doesn't display P, but nc.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:25 PM   #24
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I tried with a thin screw driver, but no luck.
You probably need something of a hook to get to the connector tab. I hope you find enough slack in the wires, though.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:53 PM   #25
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The light comes on before that. When I start the vehicle and trailer is connected, it displays C. If not connected, I think it displays p.
The red dot lights also come on my controller as soon as I hit the unlock button on my truck and stay on until the truck is locked up again and totally goes back to full sleep. It was the same with my old Subaru.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:58 PM   #26
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There are neat little sets of 4 hook tools available at most auto parts stores. I have 3 or 4 of them. Only about 4" long, fairly cheap, really handy. At least one set I bought at NAPA
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:14 PM   #27
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The red dot lights also come on my controller as soon as I hit the unlock button on my truck and stay on until the truck is locked up again and totally goes back to full sleep. It was the same with my old Subaru.
You say lights ( plural ).
If we are talking Prodigy P2, I think two lights indicates Boost is turned on. I'd go out to the trailer to get the manual and confirm, but as you know we're in a driving rain storm.
Anyway, I believe the manual says not to use Boost with a trailer as light as ours are.
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:06 PM   #28
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You say lights ( plural ).
If we are talking Prodigy P2, I think two lights indicates Boost is turned on. I'd go out to the trailer to get the manual and confirm, but as you know we're in a driving rain storm.
Anyway, I believe the manual says not to use Boost with a trailer as light as ours are.
Your correct. I don't actually use the booster so only have one red light that comes on. Simple referred to the red dot lights in plural as it had been mentioned earlier that there possible two red dot lights.
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