Do I need a vent? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-06-2015, 11:35 PM   #15
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If you can get the fridge in the hole without bashing your fingers you probably have enough surrounding space for air circulation to cool the fridge. I wouldn't term it a "vent" issue. If it will make ice cubes, you're fine.
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:14 AM   #16
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I replaced the non-functioning three-way unit on my old Scamp with a dorm fridge and yes it needs "venting". I put it back in the same place as the original and even with all the louvers in the shell behind it the cabinet top above the fridge gets noticeably warm when the fridge is running. That little fridge is giving off a lot of heat and as we know, heat rises. If I was planning on leaving the dorm fridge (I am not) as a long term solution I would add a puck fan behind it to aid heat extraction.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:06 AM   #17
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ALL ANY REFRIGERATION SYSTEM DOES IS TO MOVE HEAT FROM ONE PLACE TO ANOTHER. THEY DO NOT MAKE COLD.

Therefore the heat removed from inside of the refrigerator needs to go somewhere.

Absorption units, like our propane ones, use a flame and therefore require more venting for not only the heat that's removed but for the fumes from the flame.

Joe
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:56 AM   #18
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Do I need a vent?

Byron, Timber Wolf and Joe have it right. Heat has to have somewhere to go. You may be fine with no venting and then again you may shorten the life of the fridge without it.


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Old 06-07-2015, 03:20 PM   #19
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If there is a bit of space for air to get around the sides or underside of the fridge, you might be able to cut a small hole in the cabinet above the fridge's back end (near the trailer sidewall) and create a chimney effect of air movement. Or air might move from below the fridge, around the back, then over the top and out the front above the fridge, with help from a computer muffin fan. Just a couple of ideas to play with.

Of course, if you're camping in 90 degree heat, a vent to the outside might start to seem pretty good.
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Old 06-07-2015, 04:42 PM   #20
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Thanks everyone for your comments, and advice.

From reading the messages, it appears to me that I can get by by not providing a venting system....but, that might result in shorting the life of the fridge. And, if the weather is very hot...not the best fridge cooling.

Since the fridge was free, and new dorm fridges are cheap, when compared to the cost of a new three-way, the overall life of the fridge doesn't seem that important. Yeah, sure...until it fails in the middle of a camping trip!

i hate the thought of cutting a hole in the fiberglass shell because that's just another hole to leak rain into the Scamp. So I am leaning towards installing a passive venting system with holes in the top surface of the kitchen cabinet, and from the bottom, as suggested. If the air flow is not sufficent, then perhaps a venting fan to aid the air flow.

However, in 100 degree weather, the last thing a person would want is a heat source discharging hot air into a non-A/C'd 13' Scamp's sleeping space!

So...I'm still pondering on what to do! Any thoughts on what type of non-leaking vent would be best?

Bill
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:48 PM   #21
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I'm out of ideas on that. But let me add that I had a dorm fridge in my former Burro and the door kept popping open during travel. Unless you have some sort of latch or closure, any weight bumping against the door will pop it open. I fixed mine by putting a strip of velcro from the front to the side. It's easy to pull the velcro off the door while stopped, then secure it again when preparing to travel.
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:52 PM   #22
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elect frig vent in a 16' Scamp

Hi,
We have a small Dometic elect frig that came with the Scamp. It was not vented and built in. I noticed that the air was warmer in the cupboard with the frig running when I opened the doors. I thought the frig might cool a bit more efficiently with some air circulation within the trailer. There is a wood spacer panel below the frig. I cut a number of holes in the panel for air intake. The LP stove is in the same cabinet group as the frig and has holes at the bottom of the burners that are open to the cabinet. I now have some circulation in through the spacer holes and out through the stove to move some of the heat from the frig coils. It is still a bit warmer in the cabinet but not as warm as before.
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:16 PM   #23
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Mike and George, both good ideas!

I'll check my stove range and see if there are holes under the burners.

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:03 PM   #24
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Venting an electric only fridge is not necessary but wouldn't hurt. It really depends on how much heat is put out by the fridge as it would work against the a/c trying to cool in the summer, but on the other hand it would help heat the trailer in the winter. As far as the vent it is not a big deal to install. You could buy an expensive fridge vent from an RV supplier with frame, hinge, etc. or you could go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a $2 soffit vent used on the underside of the overhang on a house. The vents look very close to what a 3 way vent looks like, and comes with a screen built in to keep the bugs out. Some butyl tape around the shell opening under the vent and some rivets and you'll have a nice leak proof seal to last years. If you want it to be opened you could make a thin wood or metal frame and use screws instead of rivets, but with an all electric fridge I don't see the need for the vent to open. If you vent the fridge though, you will want to seal the back of the fridge off so the heat expells out the vent and to keep the outside air from entering the trailer through the cabinet. House hold duct work tape will work well for this.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
I had a dorm fridge in my former Burro and the door kept popping open during travel. Unless you have some sort of latch or closure.
The door on my dorm fridge was set up to be reversable. I made an aluminum plate with a hole in it for a pin. It screwed down to the threaded hole for the hinge on the now latch side and I made a pin to drop in the hole in the top of the door. I made the pin out of some dowel rod and a wood cabinet knob. In camp the knob goes in a certain place EVERYTIME in an upper cabinet so we can find it when we hit the road. At home the pin is put in with the door open to make sure it stays that way so the refrigerator can dry out and circulate some air.
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Venting an electric only fridge is not necessary but wouldn't hurt.....You could buy an expensive fridge vent from an RV supplier with frame, hinge, etc. or you could go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a $2 soffit vent used on the underside of the overhang on a house.
Johnny M, i have used such house vents, to vent cabins in wood sailboats.

However, I'm not convinced that they keep heavy rain out...but, then again what vent will keep out wind driven rain?

That is a good point about directing the hot air outward.

Thanks,
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf View Post
The door on my dorm fridge was set up to be reversable. I made an aluminum plate with a hole in it for a pin. It screwed down to the threaded hole for the hinge on the now latch side and I made a pin to drop in the hole in the top of the door. I made the pin out of some dowel rod and a wood cabinet knob. In camp the knob goes in a certain place EVERYTIME in an upper cabinet so we can find it when we hit the road. At home the pin is put in with the door open to make sure it stays that way so the refrigerator can dry out and circulate some air.
Tim, I'll have to check the door hinges on my fridge when I go "visit" my scamp this evening.

Having the door come open when traveling would not be a good thing!

Bill
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Old 06-18-2015, 04:49 PM   #28
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Bill- I have a dorm refrigerator also- I cut a vent into the floor just underneath the back of the fridge, about 5x6 inches- just in case. I sealed the edges and covered it over with heavy wire mesh, to keep the critters out.
I screwed small angle brackets under the fridge and screwed through those into the front of the cabinet floor. Good luck with yours!
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