Dometic fridge problem - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-30-2012, 10:08 AM   #1
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Name: Darrell
Trailer: Boler 1300
Posts: 8
Dometic fridge problem

I have a 1975 Boler 1300 trailer with a Dometic RM211 refrigerator. My problem lies with the 12V function. Although I have power from the battery the fridge won't get cool. The 110V function works well as does the propane. Would someone out there have some thoughts about what could be wrong?

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Old 03-30-2012, 10:33 AM   #2
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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The 110 VAC and 12VDC usually use different heating elements. I suggest that you try tracing the path from the input switch to the heating element, they do fail with age....
The Bad News, That part may no longer be available
The Good News: As it still works on Propane and 120VAC you could use a 200 or so watt converter to get 120 VAC for battery/alternator operation.

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Old 03-30-2012, 11:24 AM   #3
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Darell, You also might want to look at the 12v wire that is going to the fridge, sometimes they don't run a very large wire and it won't pull enough through the small wire to work properly . I don't use the 12v feature because they can drain a camper battery in a hurry, but if you just want it to work off your Tug while driving that's a different story.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:58 AM   #4
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British Columbia
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Darell, as Tim suggests I wouldnt worry about it ;-) In 5 years and lots of camping I have never used mine of 12v as the old fridges really do suck back battery power - if the battery is older (say over 4 years) it may be that the fridge will drain it down before it even gets cold - it takes a long time to cool them down. When not on 110 power I use the propane.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:28 PM   #5
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Trillium
Newfoundland & Labrador
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There is information available Frank Condelli & Associates - click on mechanics and then scroll down to DOMETIC FRIDGE MAINTENANCE. I don't know if it is what you are looking for but it may be of assistance. The site is primary for VW Westies.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:41 PM   #6
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Name: Darrell
Trailer: Boler 1300
Posts: 8
Thanks to everyone who responded To my request. It just so happens I have a 200W power inverter which I can use to power the fridge. I can charge the battery from my truck when towing so this will power the fridge. When parked I plan on using the propane, which will conserve the battery.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #7
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
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In the column to the left is a label RESOURCES. Just below is the Document Center. Click on it and then Appliances. You will find a manual for your refrigerator. The circuit should be pretty simple. battery, fuse, switch, heating element. With the battery disconnected, first check the fuse. Next, assuming you have a multimeter, measure the resistance of the heating element. If the resistance isn't listed in the manual you can get it by taking the rated current on 12v. and dividing it into 12. R=12/ I. If the element resistance is within 20%, it is probably good. If the fuse is good and the element reads ok, I would expect something is open. Open wire, bad switch, or bad contact. Burnt fuse, something shorted. Good luck. Raz

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