Dometic fridge question

[Rack]

Having trouble with the fridge in our "new to us" FG camper. It's a Domestic and I assume original from 1974. We plug in the fridge it eventually gets nice and cold but the next day it stops. We tried again a few days later and same thing happened. Any idea why or what we can do to fix the problem. Thx

[Bob Miller]

There is a temperature sensing thermostat on the electric heater to prevent overheating. Check with the Dometic site for the schematic, or just google the make and model number, and check to see if that thermostat is sticking open.

BTW: You are keeping the refrigerator very level while running??? It's essential with the older units.

[IslandBlue]

I had exactly the same problem with the Dometic in our "new to us" 76 egg. I assumed it was because I only had the thermostat set to 4 (of 10).

Our driveway is difficult to achieve a perfect level but will try again (currently unplugged as door is open to air it out)

All the best!
Richard

[Rack]

We have the original owner manual with the schematics and I think I located the thermostat but not sure what to look for it see if it's open. I'm clueless when it comes to things like this. My husband wants to tear out the Domestic fridge and just put in a standard mini fridge. But I'm just thinking since it does get cold it might be worth fixing, but I'd probably have to take it to a repair center and I'm sure that's not cheap.
I really doubt we'd ever have to run a fridge on propane so it would make it easier to part with the Domestic RV fridge.
Decisions...Decisions

[Timber Wolf]

It took me all of about 3.5 seconds to decide to snatch the 26 year old fridge out of my Scamp and to replace it with a "dorm" fridge I already had. What made my decision easier was the fact that the old Dometic's door was sagging, I was not going to have any propane on the trailer anyway, and for the near term I am only planning to camp where there are 120v hookups. For the longer term I am looking toward a nice new 12v only refrigerator and a solar system for true off-grid (and off gas) boondocking capabilty. I tend to keep things forever so consider the new refrigerator and certainly the solar stuff to be an investment.

[Rack]

Update. We went ahead and took out the old Domestic RV fridge and replaced with a new dorm style fridge. I'm happy with it. Only cost us $130. My husband thinks we should keep the old Domestic, not sure why but he says maybe we could sell it to someone who could fix it since it does seem to partially work or sell it to someone needing parts.

[Lfoxmont]

How difficult is it to pull out a 3/way domestic frig? It's hooked to run on propane along with the stove so there are a couple of pipes running behind the unit. Thanks!


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[David Tilston]

You have to open the bottom vent on the outside of the trailer. You will need a wrench to disconnect the gas line, (be sure to shut off the valve at the tank), 120 VAC (Typically just a plug into a receptacle), and the 12 VDC, (wires on a terminal strip). Then, inside the trailer, there are often screws through a flange on the fridge that hold it in place. Remove the screws, and pull the fridge toward you.

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by Lfoxmont

How difficult is it to pull out a 3/way domestic frig? It's hooked to run on propane along with the stove so there are a couple of pipes running behind the unit. Thanks!


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After you've removed the refrigerator under the trailer replace the "T" that has the lines going to the refrigerator and stove with a brass male to male flare fitting.
Take the "T" fitting with you to a hardware store so you get the correct size.

Keep the 3 way, the next owner may want the versitality of a 3 way.

A mini dorm refrigerator limits your camping to sites with hook up only. And how will you power it on your trip getting there?

Joe

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Joe Romas

A mini dorm refrigerator limits your camping to sites with hook up only. And how will you power it on your trip getting there?

Answer I've heard frequently is to put in a container with frozen water or gel packs during the drive. If the dorm fridge has a small freezer compartment, the process could be repeated day-by-day while touring. I've also heard a number of people with 2-ways or 3-ways say they do the same to avoid using propane or DC when traveling.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Answer I've heard frequently is to carry a container with frozen water or gel packs during the drive. If the dorm fridge has a small freezer compartment, the process could be repeated day-by-day while touring. I've also heard a number of people with 3-ways say they do the same to avoid using propane or DC when traveling.

Thats what I do - put the packs beside the sensitive items such as the milk and meat and its good for many hours of driving assuming you don't open the fridge up. I have also added lots of insulation to the outside walls of my fridge which helps keep it cool.

I do it because I do camp without power a lot and I run the fridge on propane when doing so. I don't like running it on propane while driving as I know I will forget to shut the propane off when stopping for gas. If I do remember to shut it off I then need to stop and relight it. I also don't run it on DC when traveling as I like to arrive at a campground with a fully charged battery & I know that my tug can not when driving keep up to the power draw of the fridge when its on DC - not an uncommon problem with our little fridges. I do not what to arrive at a dry camp spot with a battery already partly drained.

[Jon in AZ]

Just curious, since it seems relevant to the topic of this thread…

Weight-wise, how does a dorm-type fridge compare to a 2-way, 3-way, or DC-only unit of similar exterior size and/or interior capacity?

[David Tilston]

A 3-way fridge is fairly light. I'd say the weight difference between that and a dorm fridge would be insignificant.

[rick.a]

I have not ever run the Dometic 211(3way) in our Burrito on DC while travelling, but would like to do this. Does anyone really know if a beefy alternator in a Tundra can keep up with the current draw and not cause any battery drain?

I guess that I could simply measure the battery voltage before and after the trip to see if it is drawn down, but it would be nice to hear from others who may do this regularly.

Rick

[Glenn Baglo]

There is a good chance that the ground wire to the trailer is only 12#. You need at least 10# to get enough power to the fridge.
Guy who did the install on my RAV4 had to go buy 10# wire as it's not normally used.
Then, I scrapped the idea of running the fridge on 12V because, it was pointed out to me, that if the trailer battery is depleted and you travel with the fridge on DC, the trailer battery will still be depleted when you arrive at the next camp. Fridge will use all the power the tow delivered ( and maybe more ).
Don't forget to shut off the fridge if you stop for lunch.