Dometic fridge RM2410 AC operation - Fiberglass RV



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Old 03-24-2019, 05:46 PM   #1
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Dometic fridge RM2410 AC operation

My Dometic RM2410 fridge works fine on gas, but not on AC. Running it on gas is perfectly fine with me, but it would be nice to take advantage of shore power once I have already paid for it, and save some propane.

It is the 4 cu.ft. one that has only the 120VAC mode and the gas mode (not 12VDC). It is plugged into the AC and that measures OK. I was able to pull out the heating element, measure its resistance and test it. It is also OK.

That leaves the thermostat, switch and wiring as possible culprits. All of those seem to be underneath and at the back of the fridge. Do I have to pull it out completely or can I gain access after sliding it forward into the galley a few inches? Do I have to raise or tip it and access from underneath? If it has to be completely removed, I might give up on this project. (I do not even know if it would fit through the Scamp door!) Are parts still available for this antique?

My hope is that we have the expertise and experience here - thank you, gentlemen and ladies, in advance!
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:08 AM   #2
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If your fridge runs fine on propane then I think the problem is with the valve that changes operation to electric. Every thing is accessed from panel on outside of scamp behind the fridge. Look at where the gas line comes in and you will see a lever that is in line with the gas line. To change to electric take a screw driver and turn so the lever is straight up that should switch operation to electric. On our scamp that is the way I always switch from gas to electric. The inside dial that indicates gas, electric, or off does not always move the lever/valve on the outside. There should be no need to remove the fridge to fix this.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:15 AM   #3
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Exclamation Dometic Service

You know the old saying," The man who is his own lawyer has an idiot for a client." Once per year, arrange a service call with a Certified Dometic Technician. He'll not only fix your fridge, but he'll also install any recalled or upgraded parts and apply all factory diagnostics and tuning. If you've never had service he'll also find and correct the irresponsible installation defects so typical in built-to-a-price units. And you'll have a warranty for a year of trouble-free service.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:56 PM   #4
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If your fridge runs fine on propane then I think the problem is with the valve that changes operation to electric. Every thing is accessed from panel on outside of scamp behind the fridge. Look at where the gas line comes in and you will see a lever that is in line with the gas line. To change to electric take a screw driver and turn so the lever is straight up that should switch operation to electric. On our scamp that is the way I always switch from gas to electric. The inside dial that indicates gas, electric, or off does not always move the lever/valve on the outside. There should be no need to remove the fridge to fix this.
Thanks Jack, I followed your suggestion, and you are absolutely correct that the lever on the back side can be used to switch the mode. I tried it every which way, but to no avail, AC mode is still no-go. So the problem must be with the wiring, switches, or the thermostat. I do not, at this point, know if there are two thermostats, one for electric and one for gas.

However, I developed another problem, and that is with the piezzo spark igniter. Its striker does not get properly triggered when the button is pushed. It worked reasonably well until now. This, however, is something I could fix without tearing everything apart. I did that last year on my son's iCamp trailer.

A question for other Scamp owners: is it true that the door is smaller than the fridge? I remember somebody mentioning something about it on this forum long time ago. That would mean that replacing the fridge is a BIG challenge.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:10 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers View Post
You know the old saying," The man who is his own lawyer has an idiot for a client." Once per year, arrange a service call with a Certified Dometic Technician. He'll not only fix your fridge, but he'll also install any recalled or upgraded parts and apply all factory diagnostics and tuning. If you've never had service he'll also find and correct the irresponsible installation defects so typical in built-to-a-price units. And you'll have a warranty for a year of trouble-free service.
Thanks, Stephen, but being retired allows me to take the challenge, spend time on this and save some real money, or at least delay the expenditure. Call me a cheapskate, or even a serious cheapskate, if you want! Cheers!
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:49 AM   #6
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For what it is worth, I had to replace the thermostat 3 times over 5 years of ownership in my RM 2510 because of a failed switch that is part of the thermostat. The refrigerator must be removed to replace it, or, at least slid out enough to access the bottom. Not sure it is the same thermostat, but if it is, that is what I'd suspect.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:15 PM   #7
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For what it is worth, I had to replace the thermostat 3 times over 5 years of ownership in my RM 2510 because of a failed switch that is part of the thermostat. The refrigerator must be removed to replace it, or, at least slid out enough to access the bottom. Not sure it is the same thermostat, but if it is, that is what I'd suspect.
Thank you, Jon, that is quite interesting. As I said I do not know if there are two thermostats, one for gas, one for AC. If it is just one, my problem would be narrowed down to wiring and the thermostat switch. It works on gas, though.

I fixed the secondary problem with the piezo clicker by buying a gas grill repair kit at Home Depot and wiring it in, bypassing the clicker that is buried under the fridge. The new clicker is now duct taped to the trim just below the controls, easy to use. When that one bites the dust, I can buy another and replace it in a few minutes. It took a little bit of doing to thread the wires underneath, but it works.

And, I still do not know how anybody could get the replacement fridge through the door, or window, without removing the whole back side. It may be possible to remove the absorption cooler assembly from the box itself, re-assemble inside the Scamp and slide in place. But, what a PITA.

Off topic, we saw some beautiful desert bloom a couple of weeks ago. The crowds of petal peepers were already assembling.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:20 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Thanks, Stephen, but being retired allows me to take the challenge, spend time on this and save some real money, or at least delay the expenditure. Call me a cheapskate, or even a serious cheapskate, if you want! Cheers!
Cheapskate is a term of reverence from fellow retirees!

!!!!!!!!CHEAPSKATE!!!!!!
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:55 AM   #9
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If it is the same thermostat (Dometic # 2007199009), there is a bellows inside that expands/contracts with the probe temperature. It opens & closes the gas valve, and has an arm that opens & closes a switch that turns on & off the 120V. There is a sealed adjustment on the lever to the switch that failed in all three cases.

Good to see the bloom. While I spent the winter in the desert, I had to head back east before the flowers appeared.
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Old 03-28-2019, 09:52 AM   #10
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Here is the closure of this topic.
I asked Scamp:My 2004 Scamp19 Deluxe has the RM2410 Dometic refrigerator. It does not work in the AC power mode, only on gas. If the gas mode fails on me, I'll be looking for a replacement. I have looked at the dimensional specifications, and it seems that the door is too narrow.

How do you install a replacement refrigerator? Please clarify this mystery.

Thank You!

They replied:
Paul


We replace the 2410 with the slightly smaller Dometic RM8501 3.7 CF. Extra trim is used around the unit to cover the gap.

Regards
Parts Dept.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:38 PM   #11
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My hope is that we have the expertise and experience here - thank you, gentlemen and ladies, in advance!
Paul,

Have you looked through this site's document center? Here's one of the 28 refrigerator manuals with "service tips" for the RM2410.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...etc.Manual.pdf

Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Refrigerators


Also, I have a collection of manuals I pulled down from the web when we owned the Casita with a Dometic RM2454. This may include manuals or troubleshooting guides additional to what's posted on the site here.

Email me through the site if you'd like me to see if there's something there that might be useful.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:24 PM   #12
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Have you checked to see if the element is burned out?

I recently put a new fridge in my Casita. Only way to make the swap was to remove the rear window.

I like the new electronic controlled fridge much better.
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Old 03-30-2019, 01:51 PM   #13
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Have you checked to see if the element is burned out?

I recently put a new fridge in my Casita. Only way to make the swap was to remove the rear window.

I like the new electronic controlled fridge much better.
I just removed the same Dometic unit in order to replace rotted flooring and after removing the fridge door I simply carried it out - the door only has 2 screws on the hinge side. I bought a Dometic 12 volt cooling fan that I will add when putting it all back together - it will keep air moving across the heat sink fins to let it run cooler
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Old 03-30-2019, 05:25 PM   #14
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They might have brought the fridge in through a window opening


Just measure the windows to see if that works. Window removal is of course a nuisance but if that is what it takes then that is what needs to be done.
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