Dometic frig problem - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2012, 05:00 PM   #1
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Dometic frig problem

I have an RM 2410. I was precooling my frig before a short outing and it worked fine. When I got to camp I plugged it in, but later we noticed it was not cooling. I turned on the gas side and it worked. I checked the heater coil with an ohm meter and got 0. I read it should be 30 to 40. # 1 is it the heater? #2 where do I get one?
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:33 PM   #2
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I have an RM 2410. I was precooling my frig before a short outing and it worked fine. When I got to camp I plugged it in, but later we noticed it was not cooling. I turned on the gas side and it worked. I checked the heater coil with an ohm meter and got 0. I read it should be 30 to 40. # 1 is it the heater? #2 where do I get one?
Zero ohms means it is shorted. That would cause the fuse to go so you will have to replace that when you replace the element.

Might try here:
http://www.bellrpg.net/hilltopcamper...C=484&GRP=1464
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:58 AM   #3
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thank you Raz Where is that fuse? Rob
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:15 PM   #4
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Rob, see if this manual will help you, I've just added it to the Document Center too.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf DometicRM2410_etc.Manual.pdf (390.9 KB, 9 views)
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:39 PM   #5
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Donna: thank you I have the operating manual but what you sent was so much better! Rob
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #6
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glad to help Rob. When you finally discover the solution, please post the results!
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:22 PM   #7
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I don't see a fuse in any of the circuit diagrams so there must be a circuit breaker. If your heating element is shorted than there has to be one or the other or your wires would have burnt. Since you said "plugged in" I assumed that the AC element is the problem. The manual show a resistance of 92 ohms. When you did your measurement, was the element completely disconnected from the rest of the circuit? If not, you might want to remeasure. Just a thought. Raz
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:39 PM   #8
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Raz I do have a circuit breaker it still gives me a green light it is a 120 volt. I did remove the wires before testing them zero ohms. I do not like to throw parts at problems but the thermostat worked for gas the switch worked so it must be the heating element. The "plugged in" was at the shore power. thank you for your help Rob
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:44 PM   #9
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Raz I do have a circuit breaker it still gives me a green light it is a 120 volt. I did remove the wires before testing them zero ohms. I do not like to throw parts at problems but the thermostat worked for gas the switch worked so it must be the heating element. The "plugged in" was at the shore power. thank you for your help Rob
Yea, I bet that's it then. It occurs to me that since that is a current unit, a local RV place might have the element or give you a lead on where to get one locally. I like to go local if possible. Take care, Raz
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:11 PM   #10
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Raz thank you I will call around before using your nice link Rob
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:13 PM   #11
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Well my refrigerator is back working. I first called Dometic they wanted $77.00 for the part and min. $25.00 shipping. then I called the link Raz gave me,no one home. (note: they did call back the next day) I called Camperworld talked to parts and he said he would call back,never did. SO I got on the internet and called PPLmotorhomes they had the part $48.00 shipping was $7.00. I got the part in two days. Now the fun begins, I tested the new part and it read 0 ohm's, bad part? I called PPL and they said it should read 0 ohm's. I looked deeper into the refrigerator and found a broken ground wire, fixed it. I put the old heater element back in and it worked. Called PPl back they are taking back the element. www.pplmotorhomes.com were the best to work with and I thank them. Rob
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:22 PM   #12
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Hi We have a 73 Boler that the ignitor brand name Wagon Master went in the little furnace, where would we be able to locate one? Like to do some fall camping but would need the heater.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:09 PM   #13
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I tested the new part and it read 0 ohm's, bad part? I called PPL and they said it should read 0 ohm's.
The service manual says the AC element should measure 92 ohms. If read zero on two heating elements, you might want to check your meter against another. In any event glad things are working for you. Take care, Raz
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:31 PM   #14
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Raz I read the same thing those meters are all Greek to me as you can see but thank you Rob
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