door alignment on trill - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-30-2012, 11:47 PM   #1
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door alignment on trill

hi there

I am doing some renos on my Tril but I am at a loss on how to correct the door alignment issue I have. Seem like the main body is shifted. Anyone else have this problem and how do you correct? I have taken the door off already and re-patched the screw holes to see if I can move it but there no longer seems to be a "good" spot for the door. There is also a rather large gap in the bottom not sealing well.

I just tried to post a photo but no luck.suffice to say there is a .5 in drop at the door latch side

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:53 PM   #2
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OK I think I have a pic now...
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door-not-straight.gif   door-alignment.gif  

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Old 05-31-2012, 12:08 AM   #3
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Nature of the beast. Old ones, new ones, big ones, little ones all seem to have this problem. Something about the mold. There have several discussions about this and the consensus is that if the "reveal" or space around the the door is about the same all you can do is live with it. Your door looks as if it fits well so if the strike on the latch works "it is what it is".
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:29 AM   #4
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Thanks Reid but not what I was hoping to hear. ..although I sorta expected that. The door works fine but as I mentioned, seems like the body is "torqued" and there doesn`t seem to be a reason why. Frame on this one is in great shape. There does appear to be some stress cracks around the right rear window frame. (I pulled all windows and re framed them with new marine grade ply and epoxy.)
Was this the way it was new? Hard to imagine that getting by Q.C.

Was really hoping "shimming" something under the frame might do the trick.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:03 AM   #5
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Hi Phil. Even our "new" one has the misalignment as it was made from the same molds. Notice the door where it meets the belly band in this sales picture. I was told they fixed the problem with the 2011's but I have never seen one. Raz
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:04 AM   #6
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As others have said the body lines do not line up perfectly. Yet your entire door looks a little low and sagging on the top to the left. How did you the hinges?
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:42 AM   #7
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I have a 75 Trillium and right the door does not fit alround. All is OK till you get to the bottom, seems open. So just add another layer of weather molding to the existing and seems to solve the problem.

Ron
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:31 AM   #8
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Thanks there people
A little disappointing though. If you look in MODIFICATIONS, I did some work like putting in a skylite and I wanted to paint the little guy. I would have liked to try to sort this out prior. Roy, I am in TO as well. Seems like my hinges are pretty tight, no slop.(I actually found a really good one which was exact match on an old industrial fridge someone was throwing out...) The door is as straight as I can get it without compromising the TOP seal. RRjr I did the same thing with weatherstrip on the bottom. The weatherstrip is on the door itself though. The latch wasn`t working well but I redid the plate and "re-aligned" the door.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhillyPhixy View Post
Seems like my hinges are pretty tight, no slop.(I actually found a really good one which was exact match on an old industrial fridge someone was throwing out...) The door is as straight as I can get it without compromising the TOP seal.
Just a thought, you mentioned changing one or more of the hinges. Are you sure it is the right offset? If I recall the body side and door side are off set by 3/8", though the part #'s on the back read the same on the door portion of the hinge.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:22 PM   #10
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I just rehung my door for the same reason. Filled the old screw holes with glass and drilled new ones.

Now I have the "band" near the door handle lined up, but the hinges don't sit exactly right on the body. Oh well.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:26 AM   #11
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hey Roy

They looked exactly the same laying flat on a table except less pitting. Didn`t look for numbers..
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:31 AM   #12
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Looking for hinges go to
"trilliumrv.com"
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:16 PM   #13
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McMaster Carr has them too. Number 1276A52. Fast delivery and they will take a credit card. Also Trillium Outback has them which might be a better choice in Canada.

http://trilliumtrailers.com/
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:06 PM   #14
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Name: Frank
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I added a deadbolt lock several inches below the original latch on my Trill 1300. (Shaping the "catch" was a bit of a trick.) Set it up so I have to push (pull) the door in slightly to close the dead bolt. Gets rid of most of the gap at the bottom and I'm a much happier camper with the dead bolt secured.
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