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Old 04-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #61
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I tried to blow up the pictures for clarity of the trim but not sure it worked out well in trying to help or not.
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Door Closed.jpg   Door Open.jpg  

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Old 04-08-2013, 02:26 PM   #62
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Looks like you took the seal completely off the door opening.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:38 PM   #63
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Mike thanks for rotating the pictures.

Steve, I did take the standard foam off the door. The hardest part of the install was removing the foam. I took off as much foam as possible with a knife and than used WD-40 to get off the glue.

I also attached a board below the door to the bottom of the frame to get a really good seal at the bottom. It's hard to imagine that the newer Scamp's wouldn't already have this board to enhance the sealing.

I'll take a picture of the board and the material. The standard black trim around the door also is taken off.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:43 PM   #64
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Did you try mounting it on the opening first? I was thinking of trying it on the opening and seeing if that would work. When I get it delivered I'll look at it and see what the best option would be. As thorough as you generally are I'm sure you must have looked at all the options.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:58 PM   #65
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Mike.

The following is a picture of a piece of the gasket material. I bought it at Autozone but I wish I had purchased it some where else because it was not long enough to do it with one piece.

The second picture is the piece of wood that I attached to the bottom of the Scamp's Floor allowing the bottom of the door to have a firm surface to seal against.

Previously the door sealed above the white board. You can see residual foam above the bottom white board.
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Door Gasket.jpg   Door bottom.jpg  

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Old 04-08-2013, 02:59 PM   #66
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A trick I learned in the auto biz, is a way to measure seal gaps (to determine the correct seal diameter). Make little cones from modeling clay and stick them in the critical areas. Gently close the door until it just latches (no over slam). The clay will deform and hold the height once you reopen the door.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:14 PM   #67
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Ahhhhhh! Not really possible to mount it at the bottom unless it is installed on the door.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:11 PM   #68
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Norm: Thanks for posting the pictures. I now am clear as to why you needed to add the board at the bottom It really looks nice. Keep us informed as to how it hold up. Again Thanks for the pictures Joe
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:18 PM   #69
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Great job Norm. My Scamp needs new weathstripping too. It needed it when I purchased it and the PO knew that and gave me some that he had purchased but hadn't gotten around to. I was going to use it because its free. But after seeing yours, I'm tempted to bite the bullet and use the stuff you used. I like the way it looks and keeps the entry clean and avoids the creeping gasket syndrome.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:01 PM   #70
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Thanks for all the kind words but all the credit goes to Dave Brown.

I will report on how it works for me.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:05 AM   #71
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Steve, how did the mount go? You got the gasket right?
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:54 AM   #72
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I did get the gasket but I've been a little tardy installing it. I'm redoing cabinets,counter tops, doors, flooring, and wiring so it hasn't been a top priority. It looks like it will work real well. I did get the type with a 3/16 gap as some said the 1/8 was a bit too tight.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:59 AM   #73
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Steve - thanks for update. I need to get EXACTLY what you got. I'll wait a bit longer to see if you still think it's the best size (3/16 and 15 ft long).

Another question: My foam stuff around the door frame is crappy and has slid around. I need to remove it. There will be goop left behind when I peel it off (I use a plastic blade on stuff like this). Anyhow, Norm said he removed the under foam goop/glue with WD40. Is that the best/most effective stuff to use? Do you know?

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Old 04-17-2013, 12:04 PM   #74
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My Scamp is a 1984 so I'll have the requisite adjusting to do so the door fits correctly first. After looking at the thread about the Escape trailers door gasket I might look at that way one more time. They mount the gasket where the old foam gasket is instead of on the door.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #75
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Goo Gone works Sharon for getting it off - just need to put lots on and let it sit awhile. Just make sure you wash down the area really well after.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #76
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Sharon, Like most RVers I always have a can of WD-40. I hust sprayed it on a sponge or paper towel and rubbed a little. I used a knife edge to remove the bulk first.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:10 PM   #77
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Thx Carol and Norm -- I have neither product on hand, so... need to buy.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #78
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I used "aircraft adhesive remover", most auto stores carry it. I had the door frame cleaned in a couple of minutes. It also worked great to get the 50 taped on hooks off the interior fiberglass.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:26 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
I used "aircraft adhesive remover", most auto stores carry it. I had the door frame cleaned in a couple of minutes. It also worked great to get the 50 taped on hooks off the interior fiberglass.
Is the stuff at this link what you're talking about, Jared?

I've been trying to remove contact paper glue residue from spots in my trailer ever since I got it!

Francesca
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:28 PM   #80
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Yep. It's fine on the fiberglass. I would be very careful about getting it on ensolite, and test a spot you didn't care about first.
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