Door Gasket? - Page 8 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-30-2013, 07:20 PM   #99
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Name: Steve
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Okay okay I promise I will try out, and document, my new door seal the next time I head over to the Scamp (before the weekend). I am leaning towards installing it on the trailer rather than on the door, much the same as is done with the Escape trailers. It appears from the photo that they simply cut a slot for the "strike plate" to fit through the seal. It looks like a very doable install. Btw my seal is a 5/8 bulb, Carol did you use 5/8? I believe 3/4 would be far too big and would definitely hinder closing.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:33 PM   #100
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YEA!!!! THANKS Steve, the product I used was just a tab bigger than 5/8" but I suspect some of the issue with what I used was it was a very stiff product at least compared to what John got from Spaceage.

I did install mine all be it to large a bulb size around the trailer opening rather than the door and just cut out a little bit of the upper side of the edge trim section to allow it to go over the door lock strike plate and it looked like it would work fine had I been able to get the door closed. Found it was a bit of struggle to get the edges over some areas with rat fur on the inside around the opening but the make I had had wire in the section that went over the edge so I was able to pull it open a bit wider and once on I was able to crimp it back tight to the edge. Also had to use a flat screw driver in a few spots to get the edge of the rat fur completely under the trim before cramped it back tight.

Good luck! Hope it works!!! I know it will look great!
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:25 PM   #101
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Bad News

As I had stated previously I purchased the gasket with a 5/8" bulb and 3/16" grip. Others on here had tried 1/8" grip but felt that was a bit tight to go on the door. This afternoon I went over to see if it is possible to put what I purchased on the trailer instead of on the door. The gasket that I purchased will fit on the door with no problem the 3/16" is a perfect size however there is no way that the 3/16" will fit on the double thickness of the Scamp doorway. Following are pictures I took to show the difference. I do think this material would work great if you went 3/8" to 1/2" thick on the grip side.

Picture 1 shows how much depth we have to work with on the doorway.
Picture 2 shows how wide the grip is on the white trim on the doorway.
Pictures 3 and 4 shows the difference in size between the 3/16 wide grip I have and the white trim on the Scamp.
Attached Thumbnails
001.jpg   002.jpg  

003.jpg   005.jpg  

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Old 05-01-2013, 04:59 PM   #102
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Steve as mentioned I did manage to get the stuff I purchased over the double fiberglass section of the doorway but only by prying the edge of it open a bit more and then using a pair of pliers to squeeze it tight again once on.

PS could you please confirm where you purchased it from??
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:57 PM   #103
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I'll admit it. I'm a borderline idiot (or maybe not so borderline).

I'm not getting the full impact of the "bad news" there, Steve.

I want to put the gasket on the door itself, not on the frame area. I want to get all that foam stuff off the frame and remove the goo until it glistens white like Norm's does. So, is the stuff you bought PERFECT for putting just on the door, do you think? If so, that would not be "bad news" for me. I'm confused by your assessment, unless you really wanted the gasket to work specifically on the frame.

Sharon
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:17 PM   #104
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Not terribly bad news, I just think it would be more professional to have it mounted on the doorway like the picture of the Escape trailer shows instead of on the door itself. Admittedly, when I ordered this stuff I had every intention of mounting it on the door so I got what I was looking for. Now however I think with the proper material I would prefer it on the doorway.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:23 PM   #105
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Carol I purchased it from Trim Lok Lock Seal 3 16 x 5 8" Bulb A Side Door Rubber | eBay

http://myworld.ebay.com/randpcarriag...p2047675.l2559
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:47 PM   #106
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Thanks Steve. Just placed my order with ebay.

S.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:57 PM   #107
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Thanks Steve!
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:06 PM   #108
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OK folks, I installed the door gasket I ordered from ebay and ran into a problem. It went on fine, but on one section where the door is a bit "shapely" on the hinge side, the gasket would not stay on whenever I opened the door. I know the reason why: The rat fur is not uniform in thickness around the edges of the door, and in a section about 1.5 feet long, it is thinner than anywhere else and I can't fluff it up. I need to fasten the gasket. I don't want to use rivets, instead I'd like to use glue. I've got a big tube of Sealants Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk. Should this do the trick? If not, what might work better?

Sharon
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:18 PM   #109
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Sharon, there's a gasket glue that's sold at auto stores. Its black but works like rubber cement. Put it on both sides, wait a bit then stick it together. I also used just some plain old rubber cement on the new seam tape that doesn't stick worth a darn. It worked the well and I believe it would probably work on the gasket too. And since its clear, its not quite as messy if you are one who doesn't always color inside the lines. Good luck with it.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:26 PM   #110
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Linda, that sounds good. Just one question here -- is this glue good on fiberglass? One side of the gasket will be glued on fiberglass, the other side will be glued on the rat fur.

S.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:33 PM   #111
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It is good on the fiberglass, but not sure about the rat fur. I don't have rat fur in mine. It did work for me though on the ensolite or whatever it's called. If there's a little place you can test it out it would be a good idea. Or maybe a rat fur person has has some experience with it and can weigh in here.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:31 AM   #112
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The inner skeleton of the part that grips onto the door skin is made of metal. Can't you just squeeze that part together a bit where it is looser to tighten it up?
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