My kickplate is actually VERY basic. It's a piece typical aluminum flashing apx .019 (little over 1/64") thick. It was left over from a shop I built. It's very easy to shape as you can see from the pic. The funny thing is, it's not actually attached. It was a tedious project, but I actually took a piece of wax paper and traced around the door trim and that plastic plate you see there. The height was just picked arbitrarily..but enough to get it up away from the bottom sponge seal (which I still use ironically!).
The next trick was cutting it oversize with enough to stick down behind the trim and the rubber/plastic plate. As can be expected, you cant stick it far because of the rivets. In fact, if you will zoom in, you will see where I cut out for the center two rivets. NOw, with all that said, you may be ok drilling out the rivets, tucking the plate down in there and re-riveting. But it wasnt necessary for me. THEN, I use clear silicone rubber and run a bead all along the trim and alum. plate. One thing I failed to mention, you can also work the top of it down into the rat fur a bit and let it do a natural lap-over and it will help secure the stop and give it a permanent look.
My Scamp has been apx 6000 miles with this mod and 4 yrs without a problem with it.
The D-seal has it's own backing-- like a professional grade of 3M Super-Heavy Duty double-sided tape. It holds very well. The hardest part of all was removing the old sponge seal. In fact, some of the super thin double-sided tape that came off the old seal actually stayed on there. I just applied my seal over it. No problem. I think alot of people use "Goo Gone" to help remove it.
One word of caution. When the seal comes in, roll it so that it doesnt kink and crease. Those creases will still be there when you get ready to apply it if it stays that way long enough.
There is one other problem worth mentioning some of us have run into with the D-seal. Not being enough at the top or maybe some other places around the door. I simply used some thin super heavy duty (rated for outside use) double-side tape to help stand the D-seal away from the Scamp's door facing a bit until I got it to seal properly. You can tape the seal up temporarily, shut the door and get inside and look out around the seal. The light
will show up around the door. You might want to block the light
around the window to do this. But this is a sure-fire way of making sure it seals! (It was necessary for me to go through this to get the 100% seal I sought after)
For what it's worth, this is just my way of "skinning the cat". Some have used plastic/nylon for the kickplate successfully. Some have even applied the D-seal to the door and not the frame. What I show you is my preferred method. There is something to remember, you'll want to apply a light
coat of silicone lubricant of some kind to the plastic plate/seal at the bottom when you first install the door seal. If you dont, the door/plate will immediately try (and most likely will) roll the d-seal right off at the bottom when you close the door the first few times. But once the door sits shut for a long time, it will naturally flatten and you shouldnt have to lubricate it anymore....at least I havent.