door leak - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-07-2014, 11:11 AM   #1
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Name: David
Trailer: 2014 13' Scamp -standard w/ front bunk
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door leak

We have a 4 month old Scamp '13 and have noticed after a rain the bottom inside of the door is soaking wet (water can be squeezed out) for about an inch up from the bottom. It appears that the foam door seal acts like a sponge and the fur liner wicks the water up. So far, no evidence of leakage or wicking elsewhere along the door perimeter - only the bottom.

We discussed the alternate rubber door seal with Scamp when we ordered it and they talked us out of it. I'm thinking that was a mistake.

I plan to call Scamp to discuss the problem but thought I'd first check with the forum for any advice or experiences you have that may be helpful. Anyone else have this experience?

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:23 AM   #2
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
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David
Is it getting wet from just sitting in the rain or is it getting wet when towing down the road?
Eddie
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:28 AM   #3
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Just parked in the rain does it.
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:57 AM   #4
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Name: Eddie
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Dave
I'm sure you are just seeing wicking due to the inward curvature of the door. As long as it stays dry at the thick part of the door about 2" up and the floor is dry it should not be a big deal. Road spray when traveling down the road also causes the problem. I know several people who have painted the bottom several inches of their door rat fur black to cover up the dirty road spray stains. Water won't bother the ratfur, fiberglass or trimloc. I'm sure you will get other opinions.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:05 PM   #5
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Name: David
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Thanks Eddie. It doesn't seem to be more than an inch and no issues with wet floor. I was concerned about potential unsightly discoloration or mildew on the rat fur. Maybe I worry too much: "keep-the-new-scamp-looking-new" syndrome

David
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:35 PM   #6
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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David,

Dont take "NO" for an answer from Scamp. You tell them you want the "D" seal and have them send it to you. I ran into the same thing as they use "open cell" sponge to "seal???" the door.

On the second day of ownership, I pulled in a crosswind/rain. I could run my hand down EACH side of the inside of the door and probably rung out over a pint of water!! I knew I wasnt going to have it.

Now, the VERY bottom of the door (rat fur) is exposed to the OUTSIDE elements! Why Scamp does this is still a mystery but they do. Yes, you can clean the ratfur but eventually, it becomes very nasty-looking.

I include a link here to my Flickr site of the photos of my "fix". It shows where I replaced the door seal AND created me a "kickplate" that protects the bottom of the door. Mine Scamp is nearly 5 yo now and the inside ratfur on the door still looks new. But it took effort to get it there!

Scamp will tell you to wait a few months (I waited 6) before installing the door seal so the new door can cure. I havent had one minute's problem with the door seal and it still works very well. Take a look and let me know if it helps... (I have some other mods in there as well...) Be sure to post if you have ANY questions and I'll help the best I can...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...7626474795019/
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:01 PM   #7
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Name: David
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Darral,
Great advice, Thanks. Excellent pics of your kickplate. I think I'll do that as well. Did you just drill out the original rivets and replace them after installing the plate? How is the "D" seal attached to the door frame? I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get into this, but for now thanks for the help.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:48 PM   #8
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David,

My kickplate is actually VERY basic. It's a piece typical aluminum flashing apx .019 (little over 1/64") thick. It was left over from a shop I built. It's very easy to shape as you can see from the pic. The funny thing is, it's not actually attached. It was a tedious project, but I actually took a piece of wax paper and traced around the door trim and that plastic plate you see there. The height was just picked arbitrarily..but enough to get it up away from the bottom sponge seal (which I still use ironically!).

The next trick was cutting it oversize with enough to stick down behind the trim and the rubber/plastic plate. As can be expected, you cant stick it far because of the rivets. In fact, if you will zoom in, you will see where I cut out for the center two rivets. NOw, with all that said, you may be ok drilling out the rivets, tucking the plate down in there and re-riveting. But it wasnt necessary for me. THEN, I use clear silicone rubber and run a bead all along the trim and alum. plate. One thing I failed to mention, you can also work the top of it down into the rat fur a bit and let it do a natural lap-over and it will help secure the stop and give it a permanent look.

My Scamp has been apx 6000 miles with this mod and 4 yrs without a problem with it.

The D-seal has it's own backing-- like a professional grade of 3M Super-Heavy Duty double-sided tape. It holds very well. The hardest part of all was removing the old sponge seal. In fact, some of the super thin double-sided tape that came off the old seal actually stayed on there. I just applied my seal over it. No problem. I think alot of people use "Goo Gone" to help remove it.

One word of caution. When the seal comes in, roll it so that it doesnt kink and crease. Those creases will still be there when you get ready to apply it if it stays that way long enough.

There is one other problem worth mentioning some of us have run into with the D-seal. Not being enough at the top or maybe some other places around the door. I simply used some thin super heavy duty (rated for outside use) double-side tape to help stand the D-seal away from the Scamp's door facing a bit until I got it to seal properly. You can tape the seal up temporarily, shut the door and get inside and look out around the seal. The light will show up around the door. You might want to block the light around the window to do this. But this is a sure-fire way of making sure it seals! (It was necessary for me to go through this to get the 100% seal I sought after)

For what it's worth, this is just my way of "skinning the cat". Some have used plastic/nylon for the kickplate successfully. Some have even applied the D-seal to the door and not the frame. What I show you is my preferred method. There is something to remember, you'll want to apply a light coat of silicone lubricant of some kind to the plastic plate/seal at the bottom when you first install the door seal. If you dont, the door/plate will immediately try (and most likely will) roll the d-seal right off at the bottom when you close the door the first few times. But once the door sits shut for a long time, it will naturally flatten and you shouldnt have to lubricate it anymore....at least I havent.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:52 PM   #9
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good tips Darral - many thanks. We're getting pretty cool here in Vermont so this may have to wait until spring, but I'll keep these notes for then.
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:40 PM   #10
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Where did you get the D-Seal? Was it from Scamp or elsewhere?
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:49 PM   #11
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I had same problem with water wicking up the rat fur in the door. I replaced with the d seal kit from scamp and all is well. But for me, it was quite the pita to get the foam off- didn't come off all nice and pretty for me and I tried my darnedest to get the adhesive to come off with the foam. Shucks.

Lots if goo gone, acetone at tge end, scraping with plastic putty knife, sometimes a green scrubber and elbow grease. Oh yeah used blow dryer to heat up adhesive first too. Just out it in and left cutting for the last. Didn't know about potential problems with application till just now! But application was easy and it's watertight.

Scsmp dies not show this in parts page, you have to ask for it. Think it was 18 bucks plus outrageous shipping, as is status quo.

In short, glad I did it. That foam stuff had shifted and was falling off completely near bottom if door threshold. Best wishes and good luck!

Wendy


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Old 10-07-2014, 09:21 PM   #12
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Name: Darral
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Roger,

I got mine from Scamp and it didnt cost anything. But I called Scamp as soon as I got home with it from the factory. So, they sent me the D-seal probably to shut me up. I did do as they asked and waited for the door to cure before trying to apply it.

Seriously, I encourage EVERYBODY that buys a new Scamp to ask for the D-seal. I wouldnt order it and pay for it....they have it as Wendy (CampyTime) said. But the sponge IS a pain in the royal wazoo to get off...but it's worth it. Mine was doing as she said...pushing off down on the bottom right of the door.

If someone wants to replace the sponge for the seal on an older Scamp and they're going to have to purchase it, I have the dimensions on one of the pics I show on my Flickr photos I linked earlier. I'm thinking JC Whitney may have it as well. I would try Scamp first. Doesnt hurt to shop'em.

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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Where did you get the D-Seal? Was it from Scamp or elsewhere?
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:03 AM   #13
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Name: Wendy Lee
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I looked all over for it and ended up buying from scamp as I couldn't quite find some in the dimensions scamp offers. Closest I found was on eBay and if I remember correctly it was too narrow. My auto mechanic tried to get from napa and couldn't locate it. It is a big royal pain to get the foam off but well worth it in my mind. Just be sure you have the radio going and plenty of beer to keep you cheerful


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:10 AM   #14
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Name: Donna D
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IF, and I do mean IF, someone can find this some place other than Scamp, how many FEET should someone order?

And IF, someone does find it... please let everyone know WHERE and how much you paid. THANKS!
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