Door Lock - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-12-2006, 11:53 AM   #15
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Name: Pete
Trailer: 17 ft 1986 Burro
Tennessee
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Well my Bargman l-400 broke yesterday on the way home.

Just for the heck of it I called the place where I had seen the lock in the clearance bin.

IT WAS STILL THERE!!!!

Its' coming UPS!

I think I may buy a Lottery ticket on the way home tonight.....


I have a feeling there are a few more out there somewhere.
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:02 PM   #16
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Name: Gigi
Trailer: Love Bug 1974, Eriba Puck 1972
Arizona, Minnesota & Va
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Can someone take a picture of the piece that is attached to the trailer, please?
I have the Scamp lock and no key. I also have a piece on the trailer that looks like a mod. If it isn't, I may order a new Scamp lock.


It would be so nice to get rid of the ugly latch someone put on the exterior of my camper! Besides, someone could lock me inside!!!

Cheers!
Gigi
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:03 PM   #17
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Name: Gigi
Trailer: Love Bug 1974, Eriba Puck 1972
Arizona, Minnesota & Va
Posts: 327
Quote:
Well my Bargman l-400 broke yesterday on the way home.

Just for the heck of it I called the place where I had seen the lock in the clearance bin.

IT WAS STILL THERE!!!!

Its' coming UPS!

I think I may buy a Lottery ticket on the way home tonight.....
I have a feeling there are a few more out there somewhere.
Would you care to share your lotto ticket numbers?
It IS your lucky day!
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:19 PM   #18
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Quote:
I took mine apart to see what was going on. This was frustrating at first because of one [b]hidden fastener. There are two obvious screws on the inside which pull the inside plate towards the main body (which includes the parts visible on the outside); there are two more screws holding a plate around the bolt. The last fastener is a circlip (a.k.a. e-clip), around the end of the shaft for the inside handle, visible on the outside if you hold open the handle - pop that sucker off and the whole thing comes apart, with the inside handle still attached to the inside plate.

I still have my (broken) original lock...
Brian,
Can you take some photo's and post them? I'm trying to figure out how to get mine off for a either a DIY fix or take to a locksmith to get a key cut.

The inside handle moves and will unlatch the door, the outside was locked and would not move. I drilled out the 2 rivets on the outside handle so the outside handle rotates with the plate and the latch now works. Now I'm just trying to get it apart to get at the tumbler. The key/tumbler mechanism is a standard filing cabinet unit. I've got a spare unit lying around that I could try if I could just get it apart without too much damage.
Roy
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:56 PM   #19
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Can you take some photo's and post them?...
Unfortunately, I have no useful photos of the lock, although I thought I took some while doing the replacement. I will have a camera available tomorrow, and post photos Wednesday; since I still have my old lock, I should be able to show the important bits.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:53 PM   #20
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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One tour of my Barman L-400 lock... and I'm making up part names as I go, since I don't know the "official" names.

First, removing the lock:
  1. First, from the outside, if the outside handle is pulled out there is a snap ring visible, on the end of a shaft - I had to remove it (the "lock detent spring pocket" is labeled in my photo, but does not matter at this point).
  2. In my B1700, there's a steel angle plate that is held to the lock with one Phillips-head machine screws. It came off with the screw removed.
  3. After that, there were two Phillips-head machine screws on the inside plate, which hold the inside plate to the main body, which is what you see from the outside. The inside plate pulled off complete with inside handle. I labeled the inside lock lever for description - it stayed with the main lock body.
  4. The main body was stuck to the outside surface with some sort of sealant (black material in photos), and just pulled out.
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I was left with a big rectangular hole, and I noticed that the inner door skin was cracked across the narrow band between the lock hole and the door edge.
Attached Thumbnails
2_L400inside_notes.JPG   3_L400inside2_535x330_90.jpg  

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Old 06-14-2006, 08:23 PM   #21
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Bargman L-400 lock... the inside tour:

The rest of the photos are my old lock, since I didn't take the new one out again for photos. The inside plate and attached handle shown are the new ones, because I found that the handle shaft in my replacement lock was too long - apparently intended for a thicker door. The old inside parts mated up with the new main/outside parts just fine.

First, there's the whole lock, just as it comes out of the door, then with the lock lever and associated fastening hardware (washer and spring clip) removed. The only working parts are
  • the handles (inside one has attached cam)
  • the bolt on the end of that sliding part I labeled "bolt slide"
  • a spring to extend the bolt
  • the lock lever
  • the lock cylinder, with a special end
  • a detent spring (and presumably ball, it's missing from my old one)
Click image for larger version

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Two more detail photos of the lock mechanism (sorry first one's fuzzy) showing:
  1. the lever swung to the locked position to block slide movement, and held there by the detent spring engaging one of the "dents" in the lock lever
  2. the lever swung to the unlocked position, and held there by the detent spring engaging the other "dent"
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When the key is turned one half-turn, one of the round pins on the lock cylinder catches the half-round notch in the lock lever and moves it to the other position. Mine was erratic, because the post on which the lock lever pivots is broken, and the detent ball (I assume) is missing - nothing kept the locking lever engaged or out of the way. I couldn't get a clear photo, but there seems to be some sort of clip between the grey pin-end on the lock cylinder and the cylinder itself, but I don't know how to take that apart (and didn't need to). It is apparent in Bargman's Door Lock Cylinder and Keys web page; it is the lower of the two lock cylinders shown.

Finally, in case it is not apparent from the other photos (I played with the parts to see how they worked together), one more photo of the parts assembed outside of the door, showing how the cam on the inside handle shaft fits into the bolt slide, so when the handle is turned (either way from horizontal) the bolt is pulled back. The outside handle pokes through to its own slot on the same sliding part, so both are equally blocked by the locking mechanism.

Click image for larger version

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The parts all have cast or stamped part numbers, including:
  • 10-40-010 main body
  • 10-40-020 outside handle
  • 10-40-030 inside plate
  • 10-40-040 inside handle
  • 10-40-081 cam on inside handle shaft
  • 10-40-091 inside lock lever
Roy, I did not remove the outside handle from the main body (not sure how that would be done), and I did not even notice any rivets (let alone remove them) so you are ahead of me, and/or have a unit with some customizations.

Bargman's site also shows Door Lock Repair Kit L-400, but it seemed to contain only those parts which are not a problem for me.
Attached Thumbnails
6_L400lockParts_notes.JPG   8_L400unlocked_614x383_80.jpg  

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Old 06-14-2006, 10:06 PM   #22
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The locksmith was able to make a key to our '78 Burro. The lock looks like the lock in the picture; he just came the house and made 2 new keys. I anticipate future problems, though. It is touchy to use. The locksmith said that the mechanism inside is worn.

Cindy
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Old 06-15-2006, 08:10 AM   #23
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Trailer: Boler 1984
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I also have a Bargeman type. It broke while we were on a trip.The latching lever simply wore out. I ended up at CTC and purchased a small lock which I installed in the edge of the door while in camp, separatly from the door latch. It's been there several years now and there's been no problem. It just looks like it is double locked.
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:50 PM   #24
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Well, Since our Scamp door has issues, too---- we had to bungee cord it during transport because it would not stay shut. The door or hinges or whatever has moved over the years, so the latch thingy doesn't catch enough of the striker plate thingy to keep it shut!

I figure BOAT hardware has to be more securable than any typical RV hardware! So when I go to look for something to replace my door latch, I'm going to search Boat Hardware? Something like this for example: http://www.southco.com/product/class.aspx?cid=7409

I think one could spend HOURS looking at marine hardware! But I'll bet there is something out there that would work like a charm.
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Old 04-20-2007, 03:45 PM   #25
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Well, Since our Scamp door has issues, too---- we had to bungee cord it during transport because it would not stay shut. The door or hinges or whatever has moved over the years, so the latch thingy doesn't catch enough of the striker plate thingy to keep it shut!

I figure BOAT hardware has to be more securable than any typical RV hardware! So when I go to look for something to replace my door latch, I'm going to search Boat Hardware? Something like this for example: http://www.southco.com/product/class.aspx?cid=7409

I think one could spend HOURS looking at marine hardware! But I'll bet there is something out there that would work like a charm.
Along the same lines of this topic, I currently have No Key for my SurfSide camper.

I just came back from a quick trip to our local Window & Door guy in our town and he didn't even want to try to make a key for my Bargman lock from my Surfside. I handed him the Ziplock bag with all of the pieces and asked - Can you make a set of keys for me and he said, Try a real locksmith in the city ?

I guess that's what I'll have to do. My part number is 10-40-010 and it is a Bargman
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:51 PM   #26
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Name: Ulysse
Trailer: 1976 Triple E Surfside
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I believe I found a place that sells the locks.
I'm trying to see if there's a way to change just the lock cylinder itself.

I have mine completely apart,
but can't seem to figure out how to remove the cylinder itself.

Anyone have any idea,??

Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:07 PM   #27
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Name: Ulysse
Trailer: 1976 Triple E Surfside
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I figured out how to remove the cylinder from the main base assembly.
It's really quite simple.
I found someone who has some brand new vintage trailer locks.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:57 AM   #28
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I figured out how to remove the cylinder from the main base assembly.
It's really quite simple.
I found someone who has some brand new vintage trailer locks.
Hello Ulysse,

Welcome to the forum. Is your '79 Triple-E unit a Surfside Trailer? Several of us on this forum have Surfside trailers -- mine is a '76.

If you have information on sources for vintage Bargman locks, we'd be interested in learning more about that. Many of these older trailers are in need of replacement parts for their locks.

--Lynne
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