door problem - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-15-2014, 03:12 PM   #1
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Name: john
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door problem

the lower portion of the door on my 75 13' scamp has lost its curve so it is not in line with the body. I'm certain that others have had this problem & it seems like someone else had used a cable and turnbuckle to pull up the lower edge of the door. There should be a better way. I'm thinking of using 2 pieces of wood cut to the curve of the body and screwed to the inside of the door. Thanks for your ideas.
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Old 03-15-2014, 03:23 PM   #2
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John if you use the search function on this site - use the bottom Google option for best results, you will find lots of different approaches to fixing the problem.

To get you started there is a document on Scamp door repair in the Document Center which was done my a party who does some pretty amazing fiberglass trailer restores. The original thread that the document was posted can be found at Scamp Door Repair and Mods.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by john in flushing View Post
the lower portion of the door on my 75 13' scamp has lost its curve so it is not in line with the body.
The problem is more likely your body has "bulged", while your door has retained its original shape. It is a known weak spot in design/fabrication where the body attaches to the frame at the hinge side of the door under your front bench. Other things to look for are a weak floor or cracked frame.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:47 PM   #4
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New 85' scamp owner with the same problem. The door has a 2" gap at the bottom, sags to the left, away from the hinges, and the latch barely engages. It doesn't leak, but dust and invasion by mice and squirrels when it's parked are my concern. A new door from scamp is $385. If this "body bulge" is the issue, I don't want to spend money on a new door and not have the problem corrected. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:33 AM   #5
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Thanks to those who replied. My trailer is presently at our son-in-laws house and we still have lots of snow, ice and/or mud. As soon as conditions are better (in Michigan?) I will bring it home to begin work and will advise what I did and results. We intend to take it on a trip from Michigan out through Utah, Nevada, northern California and home by way of Montana and other points. A year ago we were out to Nova Scotia and points in between.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:08 AM   #6
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John, when you do find the problem & get it fixed, you might want to apply automotive style door gasket around the door opening as well as the door. This double (almost interlocking) seal method eliminated all dust intrusion on ours. Scamp also sells a "clip?" from their parts dept. that pulls the bottom leading edge of the door in toward the trailer body. You can click on our avatar an go to our album to see more pictures on this and to see other mods we did to our 13' Scamp.
PS John, my wife & I grew up in Flint.
Happy Trails
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DSC01251.jpg   DSC01252.jpg  

DSC01261.jpg   DSC01295.jpg  

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Old 03-27-2014, 12:23 PM   #7
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Look under the front bench on the hinge side. May find the body is pulling away from the floor. There was a post with pictures of a replacement for the metal tube on the hinge side, which I can't find.

Member made a wood form matching curve at corners (where strongest for least bowed) and used those to check and found fair amount of side bow around the door. Think he made brace to pull it back to true.

This post on making a screen door has the curved side rails that could perform that function of holding the sides to the correct curve. Door Sag/Shell Bowing Out

And this post might be of use too. Scamp door...

BTW - David I really really like that door seal and trim, on my to do list for spring do you recall what it was called or where you purchased it? Checked out your album too some nice stuff there.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:09 PM   #8
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Search trim lok bulb seal on eBay. There is a fellow who sells it buy the foot in various sizes. Raz
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:44 PM   #9
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Member made a wood form matching curve at corners (where strongest for least bowed) and used those to check and found fair amount of side bow around the door. Think he made brace to pull it back to true.
That might have been me. Had a hard time finding the post. The links from the original thread seem to have gotten lost in a site upgrade at some time. So much for cross referencing.
Improving door fit due to body sag
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
That might have been me. Had a hard time finding the post. The links from the original thread seem to have gotten lost in a site upgrade at some time. So much for cross referencing.
Improving door fit due to body sag
That was EXACTLY the thread I was talking about. Wealth of information on solutions in the links in some of the posts to that thread. In addition to your excellent work and pictures. I'm betting your door frame will hold until the frame falls apart.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:47 PM   #11
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From what I have read unless door has become water logged from water getting into the wood like substance between the inner and outer panels the doors themselves are less often the problem than the body or hinges. Door will be heavy if water is inside. Drilling a small hole out of sight in the bottom will confirm if water comes out or sawdust is wet. Plug hole after of course.

What is inside that door is what you have to attach to for any shaping or pulling into shape you do to the door. I would not call it robust material, sort of a particle board on mine. Know a drill goes through it with very little resistance.

Over time our eggs act like a marshmallow, they squish a bit from gravity. Think about what vertical support there is if you have a front couch/bunk model, closet on latch side of door and the twisty support under the kitchen cabinet on street side. Door opening makes the wall a bit weaker in that part of the wall too.

If the door hangs low on the latch side suspect hinges are the most probably cause, if it gaps at the bottom and it's an older one suspect body bulge (I can relate to that older I get more I bulge too).

The stock foam weather strip from Scamp is 1/2 inch for the top and sides but 3/4 inch for the bottom, so even new they have more gap along the bottom edge. That stock weather strip by the way is not very good. Does not tend to hold up well.

If you have a chance to post some pictures that might help people assess your situation.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by David B. View Post
JScamp also sells a "clip?" from their parts dept. that pulls the bottom leading edge of the door in toward the trailer body. You can click on our avatar an go to our album to see more pictures on this and to see other mods we did to our 13' Scamp.
PS John, my wife & I grew up in Flint.
Happy Trails
Dave& paula
Dave how does the clip work? When you close the door does the edge of it somehow go into the clip? Hard to tell from your pictures.

I btw tried do the automotive door seals attached to my door based on another detailed thread on this forum on how to do it ... tired two different sizes and sadly both made it extremely hard to close the door. I know someone else reported the same problem. Not sure if the age of the trailers plays into why or why not it works for some and not others. Ended up just replacing the foam gasket Scamp puts around their doors with a rubber D gasket and it worked pretty well at sealing it up.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:16 PM   #13
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Carol, the door does actually go into the clip, and as it is being closed, the leading edge of the door is being guided closer to the trailer. Newer Scamps have this along with some sort of a "rub protector" on the lower door corner. I had used a large fender washer attached with a small bolt to achieve the fiberglass protection.
To overcome the difficult door closing, I just leaned against the door with my shoulder/arm while first turning the knob until the door was completely closed, then letting go of the knob. It appeared to be even easier after about a year of use.
Dave & Paula
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:36 PM   #14
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Thanks David I might see if I can order one from them.
From your pictures it appears to be on the hinge side of the door (right side) but from your description of how it woks that doesn't sound right... humm so is on the bottom of the left side?
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