Door sag - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-28-2013, 12:47 PM   #1
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Name: Patti
Trailer: 1984 UHaul CT13
Colorado
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Door sag

I have a door sag issue that needs resolved and I'm looking for "how to, examples of resolutions, and pictures". I have replaced the hinge pins and that didn't do anything. I have not done the recommended upgrade as shown in the manual for the 84's. If the wood support behind the hinges is not good, then how do you get a metal plate in there for the new screws to go thru? I can't do this work myself so I kind am looking for step by step instructions to pass on to the repair person (probably not an RV shop).
There is about 1 1/2 inch drop at the top left, and that makes to door pooch out at the bottom, not making a good seal and making the door very hard to close from the outside and worse from the inside.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
I'm going to try to attach pictures.
Thanks,
Patti
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:32 PM   #2
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Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
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I worked on my burro last fall to correct the same thing. Our doors are very similar. I still have a misalignment, though much less, after replacing hinges, the lock and reinforcing door and body hinge positions with thick aluminum inserts between the layers of fiberglass. Then I looked at the '82 sales brochure and found even the ad burro didn't meet all the way down. Good luck! Please post what you do! I'd love to see your solution!
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #3
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Sue and Henry,
How did you get the aluminum inserts between the fiberglass layers? On the UHaul there are only about 1 inch entry points capped with plastic inserts. Not much room for tools, hands or anything else. Any pictures?
Thanks,
Patti
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:11 AM   #4
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Name: Sue and Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keekers View Post
Sue and Henry,
How did you get the aluminum inserts between the fiberglass layers? On the UHaul there are only about 1 inch entry points capped with plastic inserts. Not much room for tools, hands or anything else. Any pictures?
Thanks,
Patti
On the frame, I cut the upper hinge support through the inside wall. The lower one is out of sight since it is in the bench box. So this shot is from the inside of the burro showing the upper hinge support. When it was in place, instead of classing it in, I covered it with a linoleum print cut so it is still accessible if I need to get in.

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I used thinner aluminum on that because it could be bolted (the actual door I used screws rather than bolts). The sheet was probably only 8 or 6 gauge.


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The door itself needed thicker support so this aluminum was very thick. We cut into the door side at the the hinge to minimize damage and slid the cut slab in the space. We sized it pretty snug and after securing it in place, we drilled through the door where the hinge screws were to be located then used a threader to make the spots for screws. We could have just bolted through the door instead, but I didn't want bolts inside the door and I didn't want to bury the bolts under fiberglass in case it needed removal at some point.

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Hope that helps - please ask if you have more questions. My door was a mess and needed quite a bit of work.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:09 PM   #5
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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The lower hinge area can barely be accessed in the storage compartment, and like Sue and Henry said you'll probably have to make a hole in the inner shell to access the upper hinge. Then find some way to hide the hole with something that looks like it belongs there. The latch striker on the inside wall is adjustable too, it's held on with two bolts that are in behind the furnace
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:49 PM   #6
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Name: Michael J
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Check the U haul repair manual, it addresses drilling holes in the inner liner to access the hinge area and replace original screws with bolts on early CTs and using plastic plugs to fill them.
Michael J.
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