Door stop for Trillium

[donksax]

I love my Trillium 1300. I still think Trillium is one of the better built small campers. The only weakness I have found is in the door and hinges. That to me is the weakest part of this camper. When I rebuilt the 79 camper, I redid the hinges and actually drilled through to the inside of camper and attached a metal plate. This works very well. NOW....the question is, what options do I have for a door stop? The door does not go all the way back to camper, but stops on hinges.

[Island Claire]

Having the same problem. We did the same thing -drilled through and put in a plate, now the door is tight on the hinges. To me something in binding, but cannot figure out what or where.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hi,

I have the same hinge problem on my 1300 and am thinking
of applying a similar solution.

Regarding the lack of a step... a simple box built from 2x4 and
plywood fills the bill. I tried one of those metal step quadrapod
things but it was too tall. I find the approx 4" step to be ideal
even though the height of the floor is about 13" off the ground...
With a higher step it was too easy to bump my head.... (6'0" tall).
The box is about 18" square.

Larry H

[BarbinBC]

No problems with the hinges on my 2004 Trillium Outback, but was curious to see what folks had come up with for a door stop.

I bought a plastic doohickey with the arm with the ball on the end that slides into the receiver. But, I really hesitate to drill any more holes in the trailer.

In the meantime, a large sponge for protection and a bungee cord hold it open. Not pretty and not always that functional or easy to store the bits.

Anyone have any other solutions?

Hey Claire - just received my tow mirrors like yours! Now I just have to get the trailer functional. Barb

[Colleen C]

I installed a door stop on both my previous 1300 and my current 4500. Bought a 6" plastic stop in cream, placed it directly under the 1" overhang from the top center level and just above the front running light, horizontally, with a 3/4" cream painted block underneath it. The tricky part was aligning the bulb end of the arm and receiver at the appropriate place on the door, but after much opening/closing and eyeballing, happened to be just above the molded-in logo. Blue-taped it into place to hold until ready to permanently attach.

Then I drilled the four holes through the outside of the trailer (into the storage - it was about 5" below any seating and ensolite) and used a 3"x5" plate to disburse any pressure from pulling, then used stainless steel bolts and self-locking nuts to secure, butyl tape between all layers.

On the door, I didn't want to drill all the way through both sides of the door and didn't figure any sort of screw would hold up, so I had to use -- horror -- silicone! -- to attach the little 2"x3" holdback, again, blue-taping in place for a day until it set up. (BTW, this is the ONLY silicone on my trailer -- I'm a Lexapro girl where needed, but it doesn't have the "sticking" power of silicone.) It has held up for a couple years, not really noticeable as it folds and clips back underneath the overhang while travelling.

I'm sorry I can't attach a picture -- the trailer is about 25 miles north of me, but will do so when I get there this weekend.

[BarbinBC]

Thanks a lot for your reply/idea, Colleen. I'll have to check out how that might work on mine, when I get it out from under its cover! Planning ahead.
Barb