Door won't seal. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2007, 12:51 PM   #1
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The door on my little rig doesn't seal at the bottom by about four inches. The top doesn't have a visible gap but, barley touches the weather stripping. The door latch is fine and snug.

I spoke with a Scamp most of the the techs were on holiday. The person i did speak with said it was probably due for a new door. Arggh 356.00 plus shipping etc. any suggestions greatly appreciated
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:55 PM   #2
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Nah, dont' buy a door. See if there's anything in this topic that will help.
Warped Scamp Door

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Old 06-14-2007, 01:18 PM   #3
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Nah, dont' buy a door. See if there's anything in this topic that will help.
Warped Scamp Door

Thanks Donna I checked the web site. Where would I take the little darling to have her door repaired? Marine, auto body? any place but me as I don't have a clue as to how to work with fiberglass
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:19 PM   #4
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New DOOR??? Oh, those Scamps!!

There's many kinds of rubber window seal strips available to fill the gap. Like on your car door, for example, that are worth considering. The right one might just be available for nearly free if you're willing to go to an auto junkyard and remove it from an old junker. My 2 cents.
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:44 AM   #5
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Wink

My 1985 Scamp 13 Deluxe has been sitting out in the winter rain up in the NW under a tarp for the most part. i do have the E-Z Gutter above the door and haven't driven her through water or rain. Can I assume water still can migrate around the window to the bottom and hang out there warping the bottom by 3-4 inches?
I have a lot to learn but, am motivated to do so. I had to look up what "kerf" meant. Yikes!
So should I drill from the inside thru the ratfur and see is water comes out as a first attempt. If water appears along with a sunny day how to I get the fiberglass to reconform. Ducktape?
the ratfur is rusted so I assume this has been an ongoing problem I've had her 3 years and would like to change that out when warp is gone???
Oh yes I noticed an angled short bar on the body of the Scamp right under the door hinge. Is that an original or placed later in her life?
thanks for any and all replys

If anyone must cancel a res for any days at the Bullards Beach this Jul please let me know. I'm ready to bite the bullet and join this great group of folks. If that happens I may beg to caravan from Seattle. Love that traffic
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Old 06-15-2007, 01:56 PM   #6
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If anyone must cancel a res for any days at the Bullards Beach this Jul please let me know. I'm ready to bite the bullet and join this great group of folks. If that happens I may beg to caravan from Seattle. Love that traffic
Carole, there's a waiting list to get into Bullard's and Nancy (in Oregon) is coordinating that...send her a PM to get on the list.

Check out this topic for a much smaller gathering going on in the fall (and still a lot of fun!): Northern Oregon Gathering, Fall Event, On the Move! October 12-14, 2007
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:07 AM   #7
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The door on my little rig doesn't seal at the bottom by about four inches. The top doesn't have a visible gap but, barley touches the weather stripping. The door latch is fine and snug.

I spoke with a Scamp most of the the techs were on holiday. The person i did speak with said it was probably due for a new door. Arggh 356.00 plus shipping etc. any suggestions greatly appreciated
Our 99 Scamp had a gap under the door too. It appears to be a common problem with the curved doors. Our gap was about 1" and I was able to get a good seal using garage door seal pop riveted to the trailer hull at the lower part of the threshold. I also replaced the weather stripping used by Scamp with white EPDM weather stripping (this is the 10 year warranty stuff @ about a dollar a foot). The combination gives me a good tight seal. I have pictures someplace if interested.
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:47 AM   #8
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Our 99 Scamp had a gap under the door too. It appears to be a common problem with the curved doors. Our gap was about 1" and I was able to get a good seal using garage door seal pop riveted to the trailer hull at the lower part of the threshold. I also replaced the weather stripping used by Scamp with white EPDM weather stripping (this is the 10 year warranty stuff @ about a dollar a foot). The combination gives me a good tight seal. I have pictures someplace if interested.
Please send PIX. The gap on my door is 3 -4 inches at the bottom..does the EPDM come in that super thick size? others have suggested drilling the door due to water accumulation. Did you find water? thanks so much for all info

PS I just replaced the weather stripping with the Scamp spongy stuff (35.00) It doesn't come close to sealing on the bottom.
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:33 AM   #9
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Post some pictures of the gaps around your door, like from the inside with the door closed, so we can get a better idea of what solutions are possible. Do several angles, inside, under, and out, Shine a light into the gap from the outside to make its breadth more obvious.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:26 PM   #10
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Post some pictures of the gaps around your door, like from the inside with the door closed, so we can get a better idea of what solutions are possible. Do several angles, inside, under, and out, Shine a light into the gap from the outside to make its breadth more obvious.
I'll do that Myron. thanks again

Just another "quick" question. What if used a carved piece of high density foam temporarily and glued the thing on the gapping area of the door. I'm a sea kayaker and had a custom seat made outa' that stuff last summe. We're going to paddle with the Orca on San Juan Island next weekend and I'd like to be water proof inside for that first trip of the season.
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
I'll do that Myron. thanks again

Just another "quick" question. What if used a carved piece of high density foam temporarily and glued the thing on the gapping area of the door.

Aaaaahhh- -I did it the cheap redneck way. Bungee cord (aka tarp starp-- the black rubber kind) I had about an inch and a half gap that would suck stuff off the highway. Put an eyebolt thru the door low and an eyebolt just to the left of the portypotty hole in the gaucho bottom. Last thing I do when ready to hit the road is reach in, grab the tarp strap, streetch it and hook into the door eyebolt. Problem solved. But, then you gotta realize I am a thrifty (read that cheap) person with redneck tendencies.
Larry
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:49 PM   #12
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Larry...........
I gotta admit i really like that quick cure.... while it may not be a hi teck solution (Rube Goldberg some would call it) it will work LOL .......... I gotta remember that if i need to use it some day on my 16' sd
Joe
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:22 PM   #13
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...how funny, I saw the caption and was going to email it on to you...until I saw it was YOU asking the help-me-out question!!!!
Sounds like some interesting Fix-it Fine Folk are out there just waiting for our questions.
BB
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Old 06-20-2007, 06:52 AM   #14
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Please send PIX. The gap on my door is 3 -4 inches at the bottom..does the EPDM come in that super thick size? others have suggested drilling the door due to water accumulation. Did you find water? thanks so much for all info

PS I just replaced the weather stripping with the Scamp spongy stuff (35.00) It doesn't come close to sealing on the bottom.
You can get an idea of the size and shape of the door seal at the bottom. After it is cut to length, a aluminum bar fits along the front and is pop riveted into a curved metal bracket at the door bottom (the bracket seems to have come with the trailer originally... a number of Scamp owners have reported the same thing). The white EPDM weather stripping is sold under the name "Frost King" and is about 3/8" thick. It's much better than the stuff that came on the Scamp and does a good job except at the door bottom where I had to use the garage door seal.
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