Duo Therm Furnace Settings - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-02-2012, 02:56 PM   #15
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Spent the first night in the trailer

I wanted to test out the Duo-Therm gravity furnace in my Trillium 4500. So on new years eve, I set up the bed and got the 1500W ceramic heater if required. No, I was not in the dog house, but my wife declined the invite to join me.

It was -13 deg C, (9 deg F)

The furnace lit just fine, I cranked the output temp, but after an hour, it was warmer, but still not comfortable. more heat seemed to be cumming out the exhaust then into the trailer. I set the ceramic heater on the 900W setting. This, and the Duo-Therm kept it comfortable all night.

I am a bit disappointed with the furnace. Any one know how to increase the heat output of a Duo-Therm 65211? Maybe a fan?
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I wanted to test out the Duo-Therm gravity furnace in my Trillium 4500. So on new years eve, I set up the bed and got the 1500W ceramic heater if required. No, I was not in the dog house, but my wife declined the invite to join me.

It was -13 deg C, (9 deg F)

The furnace lit just fine, I cranked the output temp, but after an hour, it was warmer, but still not comfortable. more heat seemed to be cumming out the exhaust then into the trailer. I set the ceramic heater on the 900W setting. This, and the Duo-Therm kept it comfortable all night.

I am a bit disappointed with the furnace. Any one know how to increase the heat output of a Duo-Therm 65211? Maybe a fan?
Hi David,
The DuoTherm you have only produces 7000 BTU.

Because intake and exhaust of combustion is outside, you don't need more ventilation than normal human oxygen use. The critical aspect is to keep the top vent SHUT, otherwise all heat is sucked up and you can't really benefit from the furnace heat. This is OK if all you want is to get rid of dampness inside, but if outside temperature is getting close to freezing point, opening the top vent is definitely a bad idea. Opening a side window a bit is far more efficient for basic ventilation with maximal heating efficiency.

Such old fashion gravity furnace use a lot of gas for the amount of heat they produce, but they are much safer to use than catalytic type in a small volume RV when ventilation is not sufficient. I carry a small portable catalytic Blackcat (3000BTU) Coleman Canada as backup unit in case I have a problem with my 30 year old DuoTherm. I added a second propane tank on the front so I have little chances of running out of gas with heating on.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:57 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lamimartin View Post
Hi David,
The DuoTherm you have only produces 7000 BTU.

Because intake and exhaust of combustion is outside, you don't need more ventilation than normal human oxygen use. The critical aspect is to keep the top vent SHUT, otherwise all heat is sucked up and you can't really benefit from the furnace heat. This is OK if all you want is to get rid of dampness inside, but if outside temperature is getting close to freezing point, opening the top vent is definitely a bad idea. Opening a side window a bit is far more efficient for basic ventilation with maximal heating efficiency.

Such old fashion gravity furnace use a lot of gas for the amount of heat they produce, but they are much safer to use than catalytic type in a small volume RV when ventilation is not sufficient. I carry a small portable catalytic Blackcat (3000BTU) Coleman Canada as backup unit in case I have a problem with my 30 year old DuoTherm. I added a second propane tank on the front so I have little chances of running out of gas with heating on.
IIMSS....Warm is nice, dry is nice, Warm and dry is even nicer! Crack the vent.
Love that furnace, no wasted battery and no real noise!
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:13 PM   #18
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I plan to remove the furnace and clean it. I did some basic dis-assembly of the furnace. I removed the grill, and the inspection hatch on the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is just a large box with a horizontal depression pressed into the exposed face of the box and an exhaust port on the back at the top. I think the box aluminum, since there is no rust on it. I put my camera into the inspection port. It is clean, (no rust) all the way to the top, inside and out. The burner inside however is very rusty. there is a collection of rust dust at the bottom of the box. I am hoping that once I get the furnace out, I will be able to source a replacement burner. Other then the burner, the rest of what I can see is good.

In removing the inspection hatch, I sheared off two of the six studs that hold it on. The studs that are obviously steel. After running my hand over the part of the stud that is on the inside of the heat exchanger, I realize that it is actually an L shape, as if they just bent a stud and pounded the inside part flat. The inside part binds up against the lip of the inspection port. I hope this will not be difficult to replace.The burner, thermocouple and temperature sensor all enter the heat exchanger from the side on a similar flanged access port. I sheared one of the four bolts off that one as well.

I hope to have the whole thing out and in my house this week.

Anyone know where I should start looking for a new burner?
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:33 PM   #19
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I think you would very be lucky to find a burner to exactly replace it. However, I have often wondered why a standard barbeque burner could not be used. They work exactly the same way, the only issue would be finding one that fits into the available space. Of the four furnaces I have worked on, my own and a couple of friendsí, each one had a radically different burner design that all did the same thing. Since barbeque burners are also designed to do the same thing and seem to be just as heavy duty steel as the furnace burners I have seen, I would think that one could be used without any problems. I would also think that you could modify a barbeque burner to make it fit by cutting and crimping a too-large piece if necessary. Since the combustion box of the furnace is basically a big empty box and the gas already shoots out from the nozzle to be combined with the sealed intake air before entering the burner itself (also just like a barbeque), there is no issue with air contamination or such problems. Since the amount of gas from the nozzle will be the same regardless of what shape the burner is, it really should not matter what shape it is as long as it does not get too close to the sides of the furnace box. Disclaimer: I am not a furnace tech, I just havenít been able to think of any reason (over the past year I have been thinking about it) why it would not work.

In my previous post on this thread (see above) I posted pictures of two furnace burners. You can see they are radically different, but both are simply bolted on over the gas nozzle, with an air space before it gets into the burner tube (just like a barbeque). So, I canít think of any reason why not to try it.

However, I see you are in Alberta. You could try Murphyís RV parts at (780) 992-1830 in Josephburg, north of Edmonton. They might have a used furnace or parts.

Have fun.
Rick G

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Old 01-10-2012, 05:47 PM   #20
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Thanks for the input Rick. As usual, upon further inspection, the burner, while covered in a thin layer of surface rust, looks OK. I will pull it out and clean it, but I don't think it needs to be replaced.

The heat exchanger that I thought looked like aluminum, sounds like very nicely galvanized steel.

The studs that held on the inspection port cover do not want to punch out, so I conclude that they are welded to the inside of the exchanger. I will have to come up with a way to replace the ones that I sheared off.

The rust pile at the bottom of the exchanger seems to have come from the exhaust pipe. I am having trouble removing the furnace because the vent pipe, (exhaust) is rusted to the furnace.

Does anyone have a suggestion about how to separate concentric tinned steel tubes that have rusted together? Lots of WD40? CLR, (diluted HCl)? I would really like to keep the damage to a minimum.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:31 AM   #21
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Name: jack
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Duo Therm Model 65201

I am trying to get a model 65201 to ignite for the first time in many years. can anyone please advise on what to look for for safety sake and if I could get a copy of owners or repair manual that would help also...thank you to all....jack
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:49 PM   #22
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I am trying to get a model 65201 to ignite for the first time in many years. can anyone please advise on what to look for for safety sake and if I could get a copy of owners or repair manual that would help also...thank you to all....jack
The manuals are in the doc center.
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:41 PM   #23
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Name: Dan
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does anyone know if a







































Does anyone know if you can rebuild or where to find a gas valve for duo therm 65810-2
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