electric brakes - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-19-2012, 12:36 PM   #15
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In a previous thread one of the electrical experts was critical of multiple grounds and in this thread we recommend multiple grounds.

Multiple grounds in a camper on the 12VDC is no problem and only increases your chance of a worry free experience.

About the Dexter axle recommendations: The axle manufacture will always suggest the best solution however the camper manufactures often will take the easiest and less costly way out. Get under your camper and I suggest you will find what Mr. Maring in a post above stated.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #16
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Hint: Don't ground the brakes to the frame, run a separate, soldered ground wire.
NOTE on soldered wiring,,, DON'T.
Soldered connections WILL FAIL. Look around you auto and find all the solder connections, even better go Boing and look around all the wiring in a 747 and find the solder connections. HINT... You won't find any other than those on a circuit board. Wires are crimped.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:10 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Art VanDelay View Post
In a previous thread one of the electrical experts was critical of multiple grounds and in this thread we recommend multiple grounds.

Multiple grounds in a camper on the 12VDC is no problem and only increases your chance of a worry free experience.

About the Dexter axle recommendations: The axle manufacture will always suggest the best solution however the camper manufactures often will take the easiest and less costly way out. Get under your camper and I suggest you will find what Mr. Maring in a post above stated.
Multiple grounds could be a problem if you use electronics on board. Ground loops can cause interference with your TV, Radio, and your neighbors electronics. Grounding to the frame should be done at one point and one point only so that no current flows in the frame.

However, since the brakes are applied intermittently, they can be safely connected to the frame. The chances of interference are very small in this case. That's only exception to the one point rule.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
NOTE on soldered wiring,,, DON'T.
Soldered connections WILL FAIL. Look around you auto and find all the solder connections, even better go Boing and look around all the wiring in a 747 and find the solder connections. HINT... You won't find any other than those on a circuit board. Wires are crimped.
Airplanes and circuit boards are not drenched in salty water on a regular basis. Trailer frames are. Mechanical connections corrode over time in these conditions. I bolt and solder to the frame.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:25 PM   #19
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Yup... includes the controller. I know I could do it myself, but I'm willing to pay to avoid "hassle" time.
sometimes the best tool in your tool box,,,is your checkbook.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:47 PM   #20
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Airplanes and circuit boards are not drenched in salty water on a regular basis. Trailer frames are. Mechanical connections corrode over time in these conditions. I bolt and solder to the frame.
I suppose the under side of your motor vehicle isn't exposed to same conditions? REPEAT... FIND A SOLDERED CONNECTION ON YOUR VEHICLE..
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:16 PM   #21
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Byron is correct about soldered connections and another reason is that a high amperage through a soldered connection could MELT the solder. This is according to MIL SPEC.

As far as multiple grounds on the 12VDC side, your fridge is using a ground, a couple of lights you may have on and your water pump if in use. Go ahead and ground everything to the frame and should you get interference when turning a light on, just turn it back off.
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:53 PM   #22
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I use crimp connections. After I remove the plastic, I crimp them, then I solder them, then use heat shrink.

If you are melting the solder from your connections due to high current, then you have other problems.

Byron, what is the reasoning behind no solder. Please go beyond that auto manufactures do not use it. I have always attributed that to cost effectiveness.
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:01 PM   #23
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David said: If you are melting the solder from your connections due to high current, then you have other problems.

David, You R right. That is why Mil Spec states you do not use solder on high current connections.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:25 PM   #24
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David said: If you are melting the solder from your connections due to high current, then you have other problems.

David, You R right. That is why Mil Spec states you do not use solder on high current connections.
My point is, if you have a properly sized fuse, the wire should never get that hot. If it does, then corrosion and a bad crimp would be my first suspects.

Many of the connections on my trailer show signs of profound corrosion on the wires where they were exposed to the air, around the crimp connections. Some were so corroded that a minor tug resulted in the wire breaking at the crimp connection. I feel that the combination of the led tin solder and excessive heat shrink will help prevent corrosion in the future.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:46 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Multiple grounds could be a problem if you use electronics on board. Ground loops can cause interference with your TV, Radio, and your neighbors electronics. Grounding to the frame should be done at one point and one point only so that no current flows in the frame.

However, since the brakes are applied intermittently, they can be safely connected to the frame. The chances of interference are very small in this case. That's only exception to the one point rule.
Ground loops should have no electronic interference effect on DC voltage. Ground loops usually cause electronic interference when running inter-connected equipment on different phases of 2 phase AC house wiring. Even when hooked to an AC 110 v current bush, you are only connected to one phase of the campground wiring. Most of our egg campers do not have the capability to connect to 220v 2 phase wiring.

However, I do agree that grounding to the frame should not occur in multiple places due to the chance of failure of the wire/frame connection. It's much easier to track down a few problems that multiple problems. This should apply to brakes as well due to safety issues. Wire is cheap compared to having a brake failure when you really need them.

I also don't think that a solder connection to the frame should be used unless you have the capability to cad-weld your wiring, which makes a much more permanent connection. In the absence of a cad-weld, thoroughly cleaning the frame and using a mechanical connection should be adequate for most ground/frame connections. IMHO

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Old 04-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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One other thing. Be wary of different metals contacting each other. In a salty environment that can cause corrosion.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by fusedlight

I just got a quote from my local U-Haul for $330 to install their "Prodigy" controller on my Rav4. That sound in the ballpark?
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Only if it includes the price of the controller. It is a relatively easy job to install, especially if they can use a custom plug in made for your particular vehicle.
Actually, since the RAV4 doesn't have any brake wiring going between the dash & the rear of the vehicle (or even the wiring for a 4 way trailer connection), I'd say it is a good quote even without the controller. I ran mine - you need to pull all the driver's side paneling from the front to the rear, add a fused wire from the battery to the controller, etc. Took the better part of a day to add a Toyota brand trailer light cable, a video cable for a rear view camera, a charge wire & the controller & wiring.

A set of instructions for the RAV4 is here.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:21 PM   #28
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I suppose the under side of your motor vehicle isn't exposed to same conditions? REPEAT... FIND A SOLDERED CONNECTION ON YOUR VEHICLE..
I'm not going to get into a peeing contest with you over this. Do what ever you want.
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