Electric Tongue Jack - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-12-2006, 05:22 PM   #15
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Hi Donna, I think that even if they sold a flip up electric jack you wouldn`t be able to use it because you don`t have the clearance on your tongue to use a flip up, especially an electric one like mine because it is longer than a wind up, but you could use the side mount marine style if you don`t have the mount in the center of your tongue, but you still would have about 5-6 inches lower than your tongue in tow mode because it has a wheel on it and I`m thinking that a wheel on one wouldn`t be used very much because a 6-8" swivel caster wheel doesn`t roll too easily with a trailer your size in a campground, and at home you`d be better off with a trailer dolly if you don`t have one already.....unless your trailer rides really low I wouldn`t get too hung up on the jack being lower than the tongue when underway....too bad I don`t have the ambition to go out in the snow and block my trailer and let the jack wind up all the way and see how much mine actually sticks down when in the up position.....mine doesn`t have a caster wheel on it so think that the amount that sticks down isn`t very much if at all......Benny
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:32 AM   #16
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I want to thank everyone for taking the time to answer my questions I've been very briefly online since last Thursday and haven't forgotten your kindness..truly.

To answer a few questions. The electric tongue jack is one I found on eBay. It's expensive as a "buy it now" ...no auction available on this one: Atwood tongue jack $279.98 + $16.98 S&H. It's really the heavy duty model 3,500lbs. and I've seen them alot cheaper on eBay, but this one comes with the manufacturers warranty.

The current jack on my Scamp is bolted to the outside of the frame rail to swing up. There isn't a hole in the coupler area to mount an electric jack. I don't suppose it would be too difficult to have something welded up.

I like the idea of a cutout switch. Maybe instead of inside the trailer, I could mount one inside the tongue box? Got a brand name for the switch Morgan??

All of this is going to have to wait until I see the damage done to my pocketbook by the IRS. I just may end up purchasing another swingup jack with a side crank. But still need one without a permanent foot.

THANKS GROUP!!
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:15 AM   #17
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I like the idea of a cutout switch. Maybe instead of inside the trailer, I could mount one inside the tongue box? Got a brand name for the switch Morgan??

...
THANKS GROUP!!
Just go to an auto supply store and get a 12VDC 10A rocker switch; single pole, single throw.

Donna, I bought my electric jack at $CW for under $200. Check this:

$160 Jack
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:19 AM   #18
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ooooh I like saving money...that looks like the ticket Morgan.

Wonder if it comes in white
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Old 02-14-2006, 11:01 AM   #19
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ooooh I like saving money...that looks like the ticket Morgan.

Wonder if it comes in white
White
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Old 02-14-2006, 04:02 PM   #20
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Donna, if you have a steel plate where the thru hole jack normally would be mounted there should be no need to have anything welded. First I would advise you to buy the 2 1/4 inch post jack which usuaully is the same price as the two inch. Anyone with a drill motor with a half inch capacity chuck can mount a hole saw and drill the 2 1/4 hole thru the plate and three additional holes for the hold down bolts. Should take but a few minutes to drill the four holes required. Bolt on the jack and impress your neighbors. Martin
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Old 02-14-2006, 08:36 PM   #21
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Nope, no predrilled hole available. Here's a picture:

Click image for larger version

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ignore the rust!

The coupler is actually fairly angled up to the frame as shown in this picture:


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I don't suppose the jack would take to kindly to being mounted at an angle but there's plenty of room behind the coupler to have a piece of steel welded and drilled.

humm, also I check out that link to the white jack Morgan. Figures, it's on sale right now and the sale goes off in two days. Could be the IRS is just gonna have to wait
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:02 PM   #22
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Donna, probably the easiest thing to do is to go to an RV store, and for $25 buy a new coupler. Any welding shop (or anyone with a welder) can cut the old one off and weld a new one on in less than an hour or so. Then your new jack is a direct bolt-in, and you'll have a brand new coupler to boot. It's really a pretty simple operation, and it'll save a ton of jury-rigging...

Roger
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:06 PM   #23
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That's a good idea Roger. I'd like to go to a 2" ball as well, this would fix that problem too.
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:26 PM   #24
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I'm all for having a new and sound coupler, but the change to a standard design would mean a rise in the ball height: that may be okay, but the corresponding change in the hitch ball platform needs to be done (as well as the ball change since this is apparently a 1-7/8" to 2" conversion too).

The common A-frame couplers assume a standard angle between the sides of the tongue. Although everyone seems to use the same angle, I'd check for fit before grinding off the old coupler! Also, the coupler installation instructions typically say how much the tongue frame rails should overlap into the coupler for strength; because this trailer currently must have a sloped end to the rails, I think it would be good to check that a new flat coupler would meet the installation requirements.
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