Electrical opinions wanted. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2009, 08:31 PM   #15
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 1976 Boler
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Wow, I never thought the word "hydro" would invoke such interest. Anyway, thanks for all of the advice. After reading about all of the different options, I'm wondering if I should just wire the Boler like my house. Just 110. The majority of the time we are hooked up to hydro anyway. oops "electricity"... and with the availabiliy of the battery powered LED stick on lights and my propane appliances, I'm wondering if I need a separate 12 volt system at all.

Can anybody convince me as to why I need 12 volt????

Your thoughts as usual will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:39 PM   #16
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Can anybody convince me as to why I need 12 volt?
  1. Do you ever "Boondock" or camp without plugging into electricity?
  2. Are you concerned about resale value?
If you can say "no" to both of the above, then you don't need it.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:32 PM   #17
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Trailer: Boler 1300 1973
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Wow, I never thought the word "hydro" would invoke such interest. Anyway, thanks for all of the advice. After reading about all of the different options, I'm wondering if I should just wire the Boler like my house. Just 110. The majority of the time we are hooked up to hydro anyway. oops "electricity"... and with the availabiliy of the battery powered LED stick on lights and my propane appliances, I'm wondering if I need a separate 12 volt system at all.

Can anybody convince me as to why I need 12 volt????

Your thoughts as usual will be greatly appreciated.
Well, for those times you are not able to plug in I would say it is essential. The ability to Boondock opens up you posiblities for camping locality. You will run into situations where campgrounds do not have powered sites. Especially if they are full. Besides that, setting up a 12 volt system is fun.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:09 PM   #18
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Hi Dave, and thanx for posting a question which yielded so many informative answers. Will just put in our 2 cents here. We are finishing up our 3rd year full-timing in our Scamp 13. Our electrical usage is low also - some 12V lights in the process of "morphing" into LED's (no heater or fridge) for those a small solar panel (UniSolar) keeps the battery topped off. We recharge the laptops & cell phone with a motorcycle battery or a small Radio Shack inverter in the tug while driving.

While we have discovered the joys of electrical hook-ups, we boon-docked at Quartzsite for extended periods during 2 winters and will continue dry-camping wherever we find a lovely, accessible spot to camp. You mentioned wiring your Egg without 12V - we suggest not closing that door just yet. The more you enjoy getting out with your trailer, the more you might be drawn to explore unimproved camping areas. Oh, yeah, did I mention ... we LOVE solar! If you decide to consider this power option, you will find LOTS of terrific info,knowledge and advice among the members of this forum.

Whatever you decide, we wish you safe journeys and many, many happy memories. Regards, L 'n D
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:34 PM   #19
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Name: Carolyn and Michael
Trailer: Boler 1978 13"
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Hi all, I have a just bought a 1976 Boler with no interior lighting or battery. There are 2 110 volt recepticles. One for the 3-way fridge and one on the cabinet face. I basically have a blank canvas to do what ever I want.
I want a good mix of hydro and battery power. Do they need breakers and fuses?
Do I need a 12 volt deep cycle battery and charger just to run a few lights? Has anyone ever used those stick on AAA battery lights instead of going the 12 volt route?
I'm quite capable of doing the work and I'm not looking for the cheapest solution. I would really just appreciate some opinions on what has worked out well for you and maybe what you wish you would have done. I want to do it right while I have the opportunity before I continue with the reno. Thank-you!!!

I have a 78 Boler 1300. I replaced the standard 12 volt lights with 12 volt LED "cabin " lights from a marine supply house. Thier power demand is super minimal. I mounted one on the aft side of the above the sink cabinet and the other on the aft side of the tall storage cabinet. They have an on/off switch on board. Wiring is straight forward. I ran shielded wire down the inside of the closet and through the floor to the storage area under the drivers side rear bench. I rerouted the wiring for the other light down to the same area. I installed a 12 volt AGM battery with 35 a/hrs in the bin with a simple battery strap to hold it in place. I coupled an inexpensive charge controller to the battery and routed the leads for a portable 13 watt solar panel through a 1/4 inch hole in the floor to the underside of the trailer. I put simple plug type connecters on leads. I have a 400 watt inverter that I simply attach to the battery with the supplied terminal clamps. I fish the wire from the battery through the vent hole in the bench. You can use the inverter to power a laptop for movies, internet, etc., power an Ipod dock with no problem. I spent $30 for each light, $90 for the folding briefcase type panel, $30 for the controller, $70 for the battery, $30 for the inverter and maybe $8 for the various wire and connectors. With the exception of the lights, I obtained everything from northerntool.com. $300 dollars later, I have lights and entertainment and the ability to camp anywhere!
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