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Old 10-16-2013, 04:42 PM   #41
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Name: Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mszabo View Post
NEC says a breaker needs to trip at 80%. Which is 12.5 amps on a 15 amp breaker.
A breaker trips because of one of two things, heat or magnetic field.
Your equipment is working fine.
It sounds like a blood and turnip thing.
Only my opinion
The NEC does not state that a breaker needs to trip at 80% of its rating. The NEC says a Breaker which is subject to continuous load ( Continuous load definition = 3 hours or more ) shall not be loaded past 80% of the breaker rating IE a 20 amp breaker is not to have a continuous load of more than 16 amps . A 15 amp circuit breaker's trip point is not precisely at 15 amps, being a mechanical device the trip point varies and UL standards allow for this variance. Ambient temperature and how heavily loaded the adjoining breakers in the panel also affect trip point . I've seen a 15 amp breaker in -30 Deg F ambient not trip when subject to a load of almost 30 amps. Residential circuit breakers are thermomagnetic HELP ME OUT HERE RAZ
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:12 PM   #42
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More than most will want to know about circuit breakers:
There are 3 basic types of mechanical circuit breakers - the Thermal, the Magnetic, and the Thermal/Magnetic. Each has both advantages & disadvantages, however most home and RV breaker panels use the Thermal/Magnetic type.

As its name implies, the thermal/magnetic circuit breaker can react to thermal or magnetic overloads. The thermal section trips at minot overloads (under 200%) while the magnetic trips on major overloads (400%-500% or more). Since small overloads only activate the thermal part of the breaker, this is why Steve's description of breakers holding overloads at low temperatures happens.

The reason for combining the two trip methods is economic. A pure thermal (which is often found on power tools, motor protection, etc) doesn't react fast enough at high overloads. While a pure magnetic circuit breaker is very fast, they are also very expensive. They are often used to protect sensitive electronics. The thermal/magnetic breaker has a very simple magnetic section that only works for large overloads, leaving the smaller overloads to the thermal section.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:17 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Our Uhaul had a little push button breaker mounted with the one and only 110 outlet on the end of the upper cabinet. It will not run an electric heater. And as I recall the power cord that plugs into the campground electric box goes directly to that breaker. If Diane has not changed that setup, it is surely the problem. It's been awhile since I rewired our Uhaul, so I may be wrong on the wire routing, but I think everything went through that little breaker, it's not a conventional breaker as we would think of one.
Bob, this is exactly right. Even though the whole trailer has been rewired with larger gauge wiring and fuse block etc. I did not replace the original brown breaker and receptacle located at the end of the upper cabinet which feeds the shore power cord outside. The new 110 wiring does connect to it.
Thank you all for your responses. The formulas are difficult for me as math is my weakest subject. But I do understand the practical side of voltage drop with length of cord. I just want some things to work and will be removing the old breaker and replacing it hoping this helps. We shall see...

DO I NEED TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL SHORE POWER CORD THAT CAME ON THE UHAUL WITH A LARGER GAUGE CORD ALSO?
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:31 PM   #44
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They do make heaters that have diffrent wattage settings.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:38 PM   #45
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Diane; I believe the original cord is just fine. I don't know the gauge of the wire, but it is a heavy duty cord. We are still using it, no problems, and we use a fair amount of electricity in our Uhaul. Last winter the electric heater was used for over 3 month, plus the fridge, TV, and lights. You need to get rid of that useless original breaker, either install a small breaker box for the shore power cord to connect into, or do you have a new power converter that has 110 breakers in it. It's just another of Uhaul's odd designs, big heavy cord feeding through a crappy little breaker. We don't use the under the sink cabinet liner, so that is where I put a fuse box to connect my shore power cord. I'll probably get scolded for using an old style fuse box that uses the screw in fuses, but that was what I had in my stash of electrical parts at the time. A modern 2 breaker box is on my list of to do stuff.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:27 PM   #46
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Thank you Bob, let me know in the future what you do about the breaker box change out. Interesting...
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:46 PM   #47
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..When I brought my 1980Trillium home after a good deal, it's main cct breaker was rated at 15Amps, 120VAC and no 12VDC whatsoever. I bought a converter and installed in the camper for added 12VDC circuits. This converter also has the wire feeder rated at 15Amp-120VAC. Here is what I changed: Replace wire feeder of converter to 30Amp-120VAC. Replace main cct breaker of camper from 15 to 30Amps-120VAC. Replace wire feeder from camper to campsite power from 15 to 50Amp, 120VAC with the length of...75 feet with extra 2 out door boxes b/t shore power and camper for outdoor use...The verdict is...My Trillium(with 2 types of adaptive plugs) works perfectly at campsite, either plug in 15 or 30 Amp outlet without one single time of tripping the Trillium main cct breaker. In fact my Trillium could branch for other Pop up camper of my friend when necessary without any problem. Just share my story....
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:16 PM   #48
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I changed out my 15amp original breaker because it would pop every time I used the heater, even on low. So I rewired and put in a new 30amp breaker panel in a lower cupboard. I also added more plugs when I rewired.
I put in a 30 amp just in case I put in AC (and because it wasn't much more cost than wiring for a 15 amp panel.)
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #49
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Pam, how about the power converter, are you still using the original. I don't know as if we should even call that original Uhaul device a "breaker" as it's just useless. Maybe the original intention of that outlet was for the guy to plug in his electric shaver, or a radio. I don't know if it would work for a toaster, but possibly a coffee pot!!
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:53 PM   #50
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Attaching one of these to the circuit will tell you how may watts you are pulling.

Search results for: 'kill a watt'

Attach it to the heater and get the reading.
Attach it to the cord that the camper uses to plug into house receptacle and get a reading.
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:04 PM   #51
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Breakers are heat sensitive, i.e. if they heat up they will throw. Also as they repeatedly trip, they "weaken" and trip more easily later.

Circuit Breaker Problems

It sounds like you have an old breaker. Replace it then test.
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:05 PM   #52
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I have a kill a watt. They are really great for getting a handle on wattage etc. Money well spent!
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:49 PM   #53
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Thank you all for super answers and advise, I really appreciate you all!
And looks like so does Harbor Freight, HA.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:37 PM   #54
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Look at the cord used to power your trailer. Clean the surface coating. Printed, stamped or imbossed in the surface of the jacket there will be numbers saying what the wire guage is used inside. Numbers like 12-2 or 12/2 or 10/2 or 10-2 or 14/2 or 14-2 what ever the numbers are is what the wire size and wire count is inside. These numbers run at intervals running down the length of the cord. It may be very faint and you might have to check close to the camper end for wire that has been less exposed. From there you can caculate what the wire is rated for.
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